i have the 2000 F250 PSD with A/T and need to put the 6.0 trans cooler upgrade on my truck or burn my trans. up for sure with the weight im pulling . is it possible to leave the stock oil cooler , thats under the front bumper , on the truck , and use it , before oil goes to new 6.0 cooler , or should i remove the stock oil cooler all together , and just use the upgraded cooler ? any thoughts or experience with this from anyone out there ?
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2000 F250 PSD 7.3 CCLB A/T wrecked by red light runner 2/16/13 & still not fixed ... but its looking like the good hands are gona give it a shot . still cant believe there putting a new frame under it . it looks like a bomb went off in that body shop . theres truck pieces parts everywhere . . .
I guess anything is possible, but IMO you're just asking for an unnecessary headache... The 6.0 cooler installs using the same mounting location/holes as stock, so this means a creative relocation effort for the stock cooler. The 31 row 6.0 cooler is over 3x larger than stock, so I sleep well knowing I've made the swap.
Something you may want to consider... The 1/2 to 3/8 hose adapters I used were two-pieces from Ace Hardware... Concerned about possible leakage where the adapters screwed together, I soldered the joints closed as a plumber would to copper pipe. I don't recall the solder type off top of my head, so I'll check in the morning and post it up should you want to do it also.
seems to be one of my bad habits . by the time i go to do the work , ive done it in my head 3 times , and once in my sleep . i just took a quick look at it earlier , and didnt pick up on the fact that its a direct bolt in replacement . that answers that question . its about 20 degrees outside , so i'll have to take a better look when its in the barn . thanks for the quick re., and i will be trusting that its enough heat transfer . i got more ideas to get talked out of . hang around for a few , thanks . oh yea , wheres the best place for the temp. probe ? in the mag-hytec aftermarket pan or is there a place on trans.?
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2000 F250 PSD 7.3 CCLB A/T wrecked by red light runner 2/16/13 & still not fixed ... but its looking like the good hands are gona give it a shot . still cant believe there putting a new frame under it . it looks like a bomb went off in that body shop . theres truck pieces parts everywhere . . .
Don't install the 6.0L cooler in series with the stock cooler. There can be too much restriction, which can lower cooling capacity over the stock setup.
The best place for the temperature probe is in the pressure test port. It is on the driver's side of the trans, towards the front of the trans, just above the pan. There is a black hex head plug in it from the factory.
__________________ Mark Former Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007
“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.” ― Neil deGrasse Tyson
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
Last edited by SmokeyWren; 01-06-2013 at 11:08 AM.
Reason: add 6.0L cooler install
i have the 2000 F250 PSD with A/T and need to put the 6.0 trans cooler upgrade on my truck or burn my trans. up for sure with the weight im pulling . is it possible to leave the stock oil cooler , thats under the front bumper , on the truck , and use it , before oil goes to new 6.0 cooler , or should i remove the stock oil cooler all together , and just use the upgraded cooler ? any thoughts or experience with this from anyone out there ?
FYI That little cooler under the front bumper is not the tranny cooler, but the Powersteering cooler.
What are you pulling (how much weight)?
What EGT, Boost gauges are you running?
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George
2011 F350 PSD Lariate, CC, 4x4, LB, DRW. Air Bags,
2013 Lifestyle LS37RESL 5th Wheel
Last edited by fulltimer50; 01-06-2013 at 02:09 PM.
is aprox.10,000# ,lots of tools and racecar . 30 foot millenium enclosed
bumper pull . i hope i got enough truck . couldnt pass on the deal , but it be better if it was drw . i haven't had the rig long enough to pull up on the scales yet fully loaded , so thats just a wild guess . its gona be close to the max . im just getting it geared up for the haul . i haven't put the order thru yet for the guages i was looking at . im checking out what all has been recomended to me on the site , then choosing carefully . i only want to buy upgrades once . probably not gona spend more than it takes to reach 400ish hp tops. what guages and mods do you have / recommend ? any and all input greatly appreciated as always .
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2000 F250 PSD 7.3 CCLB A/T wrecked by red light runner 2/16/13 & still not fixed ... but its looking like the good hands are gona give it a shot . still cant believe there putting a new frame under it . it looks like a bomb went off in that body shop . theres truck pieces parts everywhere . . .
oops i thought that was the trans cooler under the bumper . one other thing , the service manual says use 10w-30 in the winter , temps. below 30F. a couple people said use 15w-40 rotella . any thoughts on that ?
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2000 F250 PSD 7.3 CCLB A/T wrecked by red light runner 2/16/13 & still not fixed ... but its looking like the good hands are gona give it a shot . still cant believe there putting a new frame under it . it looks like a bomb went off in that body shop . theres truck pieces parts everywhere . . .
oops i thought that was the trans cooler under the bumper . one other thing , the service manual says use 10w-30 in the winter , temps. below 30F. a couple people said use 15w-40 rotella . any thoughts on that ?
I do run 10w-30 in the winter and 15w-40 in the summer in our cold climate and this has worked fine. I know others run 5w-40 synthetic all year long as lone_star_dsl recommends. I believe in twice a year oil changes and don't run a lot of miles so dino oil works for me. Besides, when I did try synthetic oil in the past I never saw any mileage improvement and it started the same in the winter as dino oil. JMHO
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'06 F350 Lariat SRW X-cab,4X4,Torqshift 5-speed Auto,w/23000lb GCVWR and many other options, Vandal Alert Cyclops, Pressure Pro TPMS, Extang Tuff TonnoIII, Duraflap mud flaps and Roadwing mud flap system, towing a Hitchhiker 33' Discover America 5'er and a Lund boat. Stock and doing fine. Coolant filter, Fuel regulator upgrade.
Last edited by bobsherrie; 01-07-2013 at 11:40 AM.
oops i thought that was the trans cooler under the bumper .
The small cooler down low under the other coolers/heat exchangers is the power steering cooler. The bigger-but-not-big-enough oil-to-air tranny cooler is sandwiched into the other coolers in front of the radiator.
Quote:
one other thing , the service manual says use 10w-30 in the winter , temps. below 30F. a couple people said use 15w-40 rotella . any thoughts on that ?
I suspect you meant 5w40 Rotella, which is synthetic. Any synthetic with SAE 5w40 and rated for turbo-diesel service will do the trick. The disadvantage of synthetic is it costs a lot more. But the advantage for cold starting is that first number, 5-. 5- is smaller than the 10- of 10w30, and a lot smaller than the 15- of 15w40, so it's thinner when cold. You should follow Ford's advice and switch to a smaller first number for below-freezing temps.
10w30 is probably fine for NE Ohio during the winter, but it's not heavy-duty enough for summertime driving. So you must get it out of there before the high temp for the day gets up to about 80°
Another advantage of 5w40 is it has that -40 in the SAE number, so it's good for summertime too. So if you pay the big bucks for 5w40 synthetic motor oil rated for use in turbo-diesel engines, you can run it year 'round without worrying. That's no big deal if you change oil several times per year. You simply change to 15w40 for any oil change after about Easter. But if you drive only a few thousand miles over the winter months, using 5w40 means you don't have to drain out perfectly good oil in the springtime.
i can tell it has harder time pumping that 15-40 ,when its cold . id rather change it more often than pay 8$ for a qt. of synthetic . dirt is dirt no matter what kind of oil its in . thanks for the input
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2000 F250 PSD 7.3 CCLB A/T wrecked by red light runner 2/16/13 & still not fixed ... but its looking like the good hands are gona give it a shot . still cant believe there putting a new frame under it . it looks like a bomb went off in that body shop . theres truck pieces parts everywhere . . .
is aprox.10,000# ,lots of tools and racecar . 30 foot millenium enclosed
bumper pull . i hope i got enough truck . couldnt pass on the deal , but it be better if it was drw . i haven't had the rig long enough to pull up on the scales yet fully loaded , so thats just a wild guess . its gona be close to the max . im just getting it geared up for the haul . i haven't put the order thru yet for the guages i was looking at . im checking out what all has been recomended to me on the site , then choosing carefully . i only want to buy upgrades once . probably not gona spend more than it takes to reach 400ish hp tops. what guages and mods do you have / recommend ? any and all input greatly appreciated as always .
Its been awhile since I bought gauges but the most important thing is to have them BEFORE you start doing mods. You need Turbo boost pressure,
EGT Exhaust gas temp (installed preturbo), and Tranny temp. You should NOT use your tuner untill you have the gauges (do you know at what temp aluminum pistons melt?). Before you go and spend to much remember what you have to start with, and what you want to do with it. With enough $$ you can make your truck do what ever you want. Whats legal is up to you. Your truck is going on 13 years. Any $$ you spend will be lost forever.
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George
2011 F350 PSD Lariate, CC, 4x4, LB, DRW. Air Bags,
is aprox.10,000# ,lots of tools and racecar . 30 foot millenium enclosed bumper pull . i hope i got enough truck .
F-250 7.3L is probably barely enough truck for that trailer without exceeding the GVWR of the truck and then provided you pay attention to what you haul in the truck, and how you distribute the weight in the trailer to control hitch weight. You have plenty of GCWR (pulling power) but you have very limited GVWR (hauling weight capacity for hitch weight).
Your GVWR is 8,800 pounds. A properly-loaded bumper-pull cargo trailer that grosses 10k will have a hitch weight of about 1,200 pounds. That leaves only 7,600 pounds for the weight of the wet and loaded truck. My '99.5 F-250 7.3L CrewCab 4x2 weighed almost 8,000 pounds when loaded for towing on long trips. Just me and Sweetheart and a puppydog, plus a toolbox full of tools, jacks, fluids, spares, spray-in bedliner, etc. It would have been a real pain to try to get the weight of my wet and loaded pickup down to 7,600 pounds.
As to hot rodding, don't even think about 400 horses unless you're ready to spend over $10,000. A wonderful towing machine for a 10,000-pound trailer will have about 300 horses. Stock is 230 HP, so you want whatever is necessary to be able to use a 60-tow tune. With intake, exhaust and gauges, you can get there for a little over $1,000 if starting from scratch. But the next step is a giant step, requiring performance injectors, intercooler, turbo, and other expensive mods.
Last edited by SmokeyWren; 01-08-2013 at 03:22 PM.
i can tell it has harder time pumping that 15-40 ,when its cold . id rather change it more often than pay 8$ for a qt. of synthetic.
As noted earlier, Ford says you should change to 10w30 turbo-diesel-rated oil when ambient temps are below freezing. 15w40 is simply too thick for cold starts in freezing weather. 10w30 is dino oil - about the same price as 15w40. Rotella and DELO both make it, but sometimes it's hard to find, even in cold areas such as yours. If you can't find it, then determine who is your local Shell or Chevron distributor, and ask the distributor where you can buy 10w30 Rotella or DELO. If it's not conveniently available locally, ask the distributor to order you a case. Two cases are enough for three oil changes
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Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007
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