I will be towing an 84 f-250 7.3 idi its extended cab long bed im thinking a 26' trailer would work but what do you guys think?
its from michican to pa and i need to do a bumper pull
where could i rent such a trailer? i plan to try to borrow one but would like to know just in case and we plan to do this fairly soon not sure on a date yet
also what do you guys think i should have on the trailer for tiedowns?
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
DOT straps will be fine. You can even buy them at Wall Mart now.
Trailer............ Not sure you can rent something like that anymore. If you do from u-haul you will have to lie about what you are hauling.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
88beast... Use chains with ratchets or Chain Binders... IF you would like to use straps do not get them at Wal-Mart, go to NAPA (if you can) and get straps rated at 4000lbs+ each that would be a good quality 3" strap and 2 of them would work fine as long as you can find a place in the front and back to loop them to each side of the trailer and truck. It is best over the frame or into the frame holes, this way you can tighten down the truck and get the suspension of the truck out of play, no need to have the trailer AND the truck bouncing on you.
When you say bumper pull, do you mean 2" receiver hitch? If so that will be fine, but close in weight without weight distribution (truck and trailer weight could be close) and any trailer you do find will be running a 2 5/16 ball to handle that weight, so keep that in mind.
If not a receiver hitch I wouldn't pull that load off the step bumper.
Not sure where to tell you to find a trailer that size for rent... I would try any equipment type rental places. They will have longer trailers for the machines they rent, but it could be a problem just getting the trailer and not the equipment the trailer is there to tow.
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I am Fordless, SOLD>>> 1999 F350 XLT 7.3 SD SC DRW 4:10 LS Auto Trans 4x4 Auto Hubs APC Telescoppic Heated Power Tow Mirrors K&N Filter Banks 3 1/2 down pipe ATS 4" exhaust 3 gauge (ET, trans temp, turbo boost) pillar mount WD Chip WD Turbo Brake
You can get the big DOT straps at wally world now.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
You can get the big DOT straps at wally world now.
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Ok then I stand corrected... Maybe they just were not at mine. They did have 3" only, but only rated at 2000lbs and made in China. I know I have seen better ones at Sam Club, but it was so long ago, I don't remember the details of the strap... You would think the Sams ones would go over to Wal-Mart, but of 2 weeks ago, again only the cheap ones were there.
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I am Fordless, SOLD>>> 1999 F350 XLT 7.3 SD SC DRW 4:10 LS Auto Trans 4x4 Auto Hubs APC Telescoppic Heated Power Tow Mirrors K&N Filter Banks 3 1/2 down pipe ATS 4" exhaust 3 gauge (ET, trans temp, turbo boost) pillar mount WD Chip WD Turbo Brake
thanks guys i have access to 10000# straps used to lift propane and fuel tanks off large trucks. so i think theyll work good. about load binders and straps where is there to mount them on the frame? just loop over or what and should i chock wheels just in case or will the straps hold it down?
when i test drove the truck we had a 15 ton rated pintel trailer with a large bobcat and 300 gallons of fuel and 2 extra buckets shifted and handled great but bobcats do not move any tips for keeping it in place?(suspension)
about the u haul trailers, ive seen the car trialers but do they have anything bigger? and if not how would i put that large of a truck on a 18ft trailer?
and off hand what is the approximate weight of the truck?
About hooking up the truck, you will see slots on the front and back of the frame, they are put there for the factory, hauler companies and so on to use. Yes you should be able to loop the straps over the front and rear bumper horns. No need to block the wheels, chances are good they wont stay because of truck/trailer movement... If you find the right place you should have no problem pulling down the truck to get suspension tight. Try to pull on both the front and back just a bit, in other words try to get the straps a bit past where they are connected to the truck so they are pulling on each other, that will keep the truck in place. Just make sure the truck is in Park if Auto or low gear if std. with the parking brake on (if it works).
I have never seen bigger then the u-haul trailer you are taking about and I think if it is 18' I would think that is total length and the deck is around 14/15'. In any case that think u-haul is a no go for your truck.
Hard to tell the weight of the truck, maybe you can post in the forums and ask... If I would to guess, I would give it around 6,400lbs (un- educated, I have never owned a f250)
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I am Fordless, SOLD>>> 1999 F350 XLT 7.3 SD SC DRW 4:10 LS Auto Trans 4x4 Auto Hubs APC Telescoppic Heated Power Tow Mirrors K&N Filter Banks 3 1/2 down pipe ATS 4" exhaust 3 gauge (ET, trans temp, turbo boost) pillar mount WD Chip WD Turbo Brake
well its good were on the same track i was thinking the same u haul would be too small. a 7500# max too for weight. but ill look on my truck here and see if i can find the tie off points
truck is running just not inspected as ive seen so we will take a short local drive in a parking lot or something to make sure it runs then were off. the inspection is one of two reasons were towing the second is that i am not trusting a truck this old that ive never seen on a trip like this.
thank you much and till i haul it further input would be nice from anyone
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
When using chains - hook them to the truck and to the trailer (take out most of the slack) take out the rest of the slack out with the binder. i.e. don't hook the binder directly to the truck or trailer. If the binder breaks for some reason the truck won't go far with small amounts of slack in the chain.
Go to a truck stop and watch the trucks coming through for methods that might work for chaining up.
Go to local truck supply house to get the hooks that let you use the holes in the frame.
HF is running a special on chain and binders. Chains only 5/16 but for no more than what you are doing it should be ok ...
Tire chalks? Cut a 12"-16" 4x4 wood block in half on a 45 put the square end against the tire and the 45 face down (if you will) on the trailer deck. Nail the block in place with a couple of large nails. (previous sentence assumes wood deck on trailer [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]) Use the other half of the block for the other side of the tire. Repeat for each tire.
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Two ideas when combined together will always make a third better idea!
I don't have to be wrong for you to be right.
Kent
@235K miles @ 071127
>202K miles @ 070828
2001 F350 7.3 PSD SD CC DRW Lariat, 4R100 (replaced at 41k w/rebuilt by dealer), 3.73, FX4 ESOF, Long Box - 3rd CPS. CPS in Glove Box MOD. K&N Filter. 6.0 OTA Cooler. Green to Red Coolant. Water filter. 203º T-stat. Fumoto Valve. Monroe Gasmatic Shocks.
When we tow our Jeeps we attach the tie downs to the axles, never to the frame, so that the suspension flexing will not loosen the straps.
In reality the truck isn't going to move when you follow any of the above advice. The critical issue is to keep it on the trailer if you have a collision.
well i do not plan on having a collision but who does that is a good point because it will be a flat trailer (no headache rack) thats important. i will watch a truck stop and see what to do.
now is the hard part im new to towing so should i tie down frame and have a stable load or axles and have a safe load? or maybe both chain on frame straps on axle?
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
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well i do not plan on having a collision but who does that is a good point because it will be a flat trailer (no headache rack) thats important. i will watch a truck stop and see what to do.
now is the hard part im new to towing so should i tie down frame and have a stable load or axles and have a safe load? or maybe both chain on frame straps on axle?
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I'm no expert. But I have it in my mind from someplace that straps are not to be used for tie downs on vehicles. Only chains.
My guess is the the suspension???
Logicaly when you hit a bump the towed vehicles on the trailer will have momentum, it will lunge up and down. This might allow a strap to move into a position that it might rub and/or get cut against some part of the towed vehicles. i.e. they make/use the tow straps that go over tires (guys are referencing above) for that reason and are used on trailer designed for car hauling.
I don't recall seeing trailered vehicles with straps holding it to a FLAT bed trailer. I drive about 13K-15K a month.
What do have? Chains or straps?
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Two ideas when combined together will always make a third better idea!
I don't have to be wrong for you to be right.
Kent
@235K miles @ 071127
>202K miles @ 070828
2001 F350 7.3 PSD SD CC DRW Lariat, 4R100 (replaced at 41k w/rebuilt by dealer), 3.73, FX4 ESOF, Long Box - 3rd CPS. CPS in Glove Box MOD. K&N Filter. 6.0 OTA Cooler. Green to Red Coolant. Water filter. 203º T-stat. Fumoto Valve. Monroe Gasmatic Shocks.
i have realy heavy duty straps in my access and i could go buy some chains if needed im up for anything just the truck is a friends and would not like to destroy it on the way or damage the trailer
i was thinking about straping the axles and then chaining over the frame on front and back it it 2wd though so how would you strap an axel like that? i think ifs not sure
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
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