I bought a used trailer with elec. over hydraulic brakes. They work good when you apply the brake but then they dont relase all the way,it takes about a minute for them to release. I checked to see if when I let off brake pedal the brake actuator quites running and it does. So I pulled the hubs and all the brake return springs are in place everthing is moving freely. Does anyone have any ideas.
Thanks
Jim
A factory brake controler( if you have it) doesnt work correctly with most electric over hydrolic systems. What kind of controller and what trailer brake/axle system do you have?
If you know the brand of actuator, I've got a few contacts in the industry. E/H brakes are nice, but when they go down, they go down hard. E-mail me at ron@hensleymfg.com and I'll get you a number to call.
__________________
Ron Estrada
Hensley Mfg., Inc.
Home of the Hensley Arrow and TrailerSaver
800-410-6580
Why are there all the electric over hyd systems out there? Personally I have them because of the initial surge before the brakes begin helping.
Am I crazy for being a fan of strict electric? I guess I wouldn't mind air, but that never comes on a pick-up.
__________________
1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
Sorry I vented a little. I forgot to mention that there could be blockage in the wheel cyl's, or in any of the lines from the front actuator.
A real good bleed might help you out?
__________________
1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
The little bit I've dealt with them, I'd guess one of 2 things - either the actuater is sticking and not returning fast enough (what brand do you have?) or your wheel cylinders are seizing up and not popping back in the way they're supposed to. I had that happen on a Toyota pickup, not a trailer, but I guess it could happen with it, too. Where did the trailer come from? If it's been in the salt, I'd guess cylinders, or if it's humidity I'd worry about the actuater.
It is a Ausco brake actuator which are no longer in buisness. I have had the drums off and everthing looks really good. So I think I am going to buy a new actuator does anyone have prefernces. I am looking at the dexter or the carlise.
Why are there all the electric over hyd systems out there? Personally I have them because of the initial surge before the brakes begin helping.
Am I crazy for being a fan of strict electric? I guess I wouldn't mind air, but that never comes on a pick-up.
E/H systems are what works when the axle has disk brakes.
From what I have read, most of the problems with brake delay comes from a brake controler that is not compatable with the accuator.
This is what I thought the problem was,so I called the manufacture of brake controller. They had me check to make sure the actuator quit running when I let off of the brakes. Which it did so that says that the controller is working properly. So that leds me back to the actuator.
Jim
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
