From my signature you can see what I tow, and with what. I'm considering trying to smooth the back & forth jerking motion over uneven roads. I will take care of the vertical motion with the air bags.
The two hitch mods I'm comparing are: Demco 'Glide Ride' and the MOR/ryde Pin Box [rubberized].
I'd really appreciate any comments from users. Thanks.
The back and forth jerking on mine was caused by a poor fit of the king-pin when coupled to the fifthwheel hitch. I tried a couple of different hitch models on some friends trucks. Some were better than others.
I finally changed to a goose neck and eliminated the problem. There are a number of goose neck adapters on the market. I've had mine for 5 years and 30,000 towing miles.
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2001 F250 SC 4X4 Blue PSD Auto, Cody Gooseneck Hitch, Rancho Shocks and Steering Stabilzer, Tekonsha Prodigy Controller, Garmin Streetpilot 2610 GPS, Walker BTM, 285/75R/16E, Western Diesel Trans-Pyro-Boost, Pillar Mount, Painless fuse panel, In-tank and Pre-pump mods, Slotted Rear Rotors, Slotted and Cross Drilled Front Rotors, Fumoto Valve, Zoodad Mod, Transfer Flow 46 gal tank, Mag-Hytec Differential Cover, Electric Tailgate Lock, IAH Deleted, Coolant Filter, DP-Tuner 80 hp PCM, CCV Mod, 203 Thermostat, Ford AIS Air Filter
The "bucking" you refer to can be caused by a variety of things, individually or combined (hitch location in tow vehicle, trailer &/or truck load placement, road surface, etc...you get the idea). That helps alot, I know. More often than not I've discovered trailer loading to be the most common issue affecting how any trailer pulls. That said, I use a TrailAir pinbox on my 32' 5vr. I also have air suspension on the truck. Helped my problems quite a bit. Search the RV forums for a ton of info. Escapees.com & rv.net are a couple I use. Not selling anything, just telling you what worked for me.
__________________ 1994 F350 4dr SRW 2WD w/32" sleeper - 1 owner, ZF5, 410, Stock inj, SC1705 tuner, 3" BD dp, Isspro pyro & boost gauges, LUK flywheel & clutch, ebay clutch push rod mod, Kelderman air suspension(rear), converted YORK air compressor, DIY Ex Brake & AIC, 368k (on my way back to 300K!!! LOL)
As far as the bucking goes (meaning the front end bobs up and down after a bump) the first thing I would look at is where the centerline of the king pin is in relation to the rear axle centerline of the tow vehicle. Given the fact that you are towing a trailer that heavy with an F250 this is even more important. If the centerline is not forward of the rear axle centerline you will always have problems. The general rule of thumb is 2-4" forward. If it is not there every time the trailer exerts a load onto the hitch it is sending the majority of that load to the rear axle which 'lightens up' the load on the front axle. It all about balance when you get into rougher conditions.
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For every action there is an equal and opposite malfunction
1988 F350 CC 4x4 SRW, 7.3 Banks non-wastegated turbo, C6 w/ HD torque converter, Tru-Cool 4590 trans cooler, Highjacker 'softride' 4" lift, pre/post luber, coolant filter, Racor fuel filter/separator, pyro and boost gauges, Progressive 16x8 wheels, 285-75x16 rubber, 3" downpipe into 4" straight pipe over the rear axle and into 5" SS tip. 1994 Alpenlite 33' 5th wheel trailer
Thanks guys for your info on the cause of the bucking, from king-pin fit to hitch placement to trailer loading. I'm familiar with all critical criteria and have towed this 5ver very safely and relatively comfortably for the past 7 years. I am simply trying to improve my ride by incorporating a more sophisticated coupling arrangement. All I really need are comments by users of specifically either, the 'Demco Glide Ride' or, the MOR/ryde Pin Box [that incorporates a rubber isolation pad.]
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From my signature you can see what I tow, and with what. I'm considering trying to smooth the back & forth jerking motion over uneven roads. I will take care of the vertical motion with the air bags.
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