I have a 3axle fifth wheel that has the wet shackle bolts. I know the previous owner never lubed them. When i tried to, i could not get grease to about four of them. I am familiar with how zerk fittings work, unfortunately these are not removable.
I got the ball free on the zerks but they just won't take grease. Outside of removing the whole bolt, is there a trick to getting these to take grease? I tried jacking the axles up and down to relieve weight etc, but they won't budge. I even loosened the nuts, to no avail.
Jacking up the trailer to take all the weight off of the axles on a 40'er is something i don't have the tools to do at this time. I'd need several jackstands, the trailer has flipped axles and sits high, etc.
Sorry so long thanks for any help!
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2002 F350 Lariat CC SRW 4x4 LB , Shadow Gray, Edge 4.5" w/ dual bilsteins up front/ Toyo Open Country M/T 315-75-16. Stock Motor 7.3, dual alts / 3 guage pillar pod, Auto Meter/ 5" turbo back magnaflow exhaust w/Aeroturbine muffler & 6" Jardine tip/ Husky 24k 5th wheel / Air Lift Bags.
John Wood Transmission / DP tuner / 08' rear diff cover
Just keep on driving... I've got an equipment trailer with grease fittings. Haven't really seen them before. I throw grease at it every once and awhile. You might try a stronger grease gun than what you are using now. If that doesn't work, then I'd guess you'd have to take it apart. Maybe you could pump a solvent in there or something??!! Hopefully it wouldn't f anything up.
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1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 249k miles and thousands of $$$$ in maintenance and repairs.
Find one of the old Lincoln hand pump grease guns, they will put out 10,000 psi against a dead head. We used them for breaking the fittings and shackles loose on heavy trucks when they would not take grease from the air grease gun. They are easy to spot, with a long barrel and a long handle. You might find one in an old truck repair shop.
If you can get a helper with a long pry bar to jiggle the shackle bolt, this will help the grease to flow while you are pumping.
Consumer grease guns that are in the automotive stores do not put out much pressure.
I am guessing the fittings are pressed in. If you ever get the trailer jacked up, pull the bolts/pins, knock out the fittings, drill and tap 1/4-28 with a tapered tap, and screw in new fittings. If 1/4-28 is not big enough, just go bigger with the new fittings and tap.
Something to look for, in the past I have found "wet" shackles with fittings, but the bolt/pin was not through drilled for grease flow. A screw up in the manufacturing of the bolt.
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1999 7.3 F450 Cabriolet Crew Cab with Aluminum hauler bed (love the side storage!), Banks Power Pac, Donaldson Air Filter, Set up for Fifth Wheel, Gooseneck and bumper pull. ATS Billet Transmission, ATS Five Star Torque Converter, ATS Co-Pilot. Pulling a 34 ft. Silverado Aluminum Horse Trailer with Living Quarters.
This F450 will be replaced with a heavier truck, maybe a Freightliner or a Peterbilt around 25,000 GVW. AND with a big manual transmission.
If possible you might consider trying to loosen the nut then have a helper either turn the bolt or pump the handle while you do the opposite. That scuffing may scrap off the hardened bit of grease/dirt/rust that is plugging the hole. We just did this on a friend's disc this past weekend. Out of the eight axle mounts only two would not take grease no matter how hard he pumped so I started turning the disc gang while he kept the pressure on, both broke free within 4 to 6 revolutions. I'm old he's younger by 15 years and remarked he learned something new, it was just something I had picked up over the years. Maybe a similar approach will work on your pins.
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GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS!! - GOD BLESS AMERICA!!
The bolts may not have been installed correctly. The bolt's are suppose to be installed so the grease holes are horizontal. Do not over tighten the bolts.
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Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first
The bolts may not have been installed correctly. The bolt's are suppose to be installed so the grease holes are horizontal. Do not over tighten the bolts.
Thank you for the info guys, i will try. They are a pain to turn, as they are barbed so i will try to mess with them some more.
What disc are you referring to a couple of posts pack?
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2002 F350 Lariat CC SRW 4x4 LB , Shadow Gray, Edge 4.5" w/ dual bilsteins up front/ Toyo Open Country M/T 315-75-16. Stock Motor 7.3, dual alts / 3 guage pillar pod, Auto Meter/ 5" turbo back magnaflow exhaust w/Aeroturbine muffler & 6" Jardine tip/ Husky 24k 5th wheel / Air Lift Bags.
John Wood Transmission / DP tuner / 08' rear diff cover
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1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 249k miles and thousands of $$$$ in maintenance and repairs.
Yes I was talking about a tractor disc on the 3 point hitch as just an example.
It sounds like the bolts in question have "teeth" on them much like lug studs do to keep them from rotating in the shackles. If this is the case then you will likely have to pull the shackle plates off by removing the two nuts and pulling the "set" (two bolts and the connecting shackle plate) then find and clean out the holes that seem to be plugged. While they are off you may be able to determine if they are not positioned with the hole facing the correct direction, press or drive them out, then rotate as desired and press or drive them back in.
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GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS!! - GOD BLESS AMERICA!!
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