What it a class IV/V hitch ?

[Turbo_Bimmer]

OK, I know what a class IV is, and a class V, but what about a class IV/V?

Thanks.

[88beast]

i think that means the model has 2 weight ratings IV and V in that series so order it by telling them u want class V

[Hook'em Horns!]

Originally Posted by Turbo_Bimmer

OK, I know what a class IV is, and a class V, but what about a class IV/V?

Thanks.

It's a class IV claiming to handle more weight utilizing a WD set-up.

[jakes350]

you probably have the new style hitch receiver that is 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 inch that requires the slide in sleeve to facilitate the old style hitch

[jakes350]

ps the sleeve takes it from a class iv to the class v to use the smaller type hitch

[Turbo_Bimmer]

I don't have a hitch yet.

I recently bought a flatbed trailer for my racecar, and it came with a 2-3/8 (or 2-3/16") ball and a block to install WD bars (included in the deal).
The square tube is 2" OD.
The guy who sold it to me had a classIV hitch on his truck.

Does it make a difference when I will buy my hitch (class IV or IV/V) that I use WD bars? I mean, any class IV will do the job since it's the ball/block assy that has the attachement for the WD bars?

If a class IV/V is a class IV with the capacity of a class V, why don't they call it a class V?

Thanks.

[Hook'em Horns!]

Originally Posted by Turbo_Bimmer

Does it make a difference when I will buy my hitch (class IV or IV/V) that I use WD bars? I mean, any class IV will do the job since it's the ball/block assy that has the attachement for the WD bars?

If a class IV/V is a class IV with the capacity of a class V, why don't they call it a class V?

Thanks.

Basically, yes. That (block) is the ball mount assembly, a 2-5/16” ball with a standard 2” shank on the ball mount. Do not get caught up in the mfr jargon of III/IV or IV/V and so on. Go by the weight rating stamped on all the components needed to complete the hitch package.

Define your load of car and trailer (total weight), check that your trailer capacities are in line with your needs. Match the stated ratings of the WD to the stated ratings of the receiver hitch you purchase, and finally that all of these are in line with your vehicle’s rated capacities.

[T_Bone]

Hi TB,

Never go on class rating alone as over the years, no one has been able to find a copy of the certifiying authoritity classifications.

Always go by weight rating of the receiver and the ball mount and even that is very liberal up to final interpatation. Even the factory stock hitching has a hard time meeting there weight rating in most cases.

Example:
If you use a 12.5GVWR receiver and a 10kGVWR ball mount then your acutal rating is a 10kGVWR connection.

If you use a 12.5kGVWR ball mount in a 10kGVWR receiver then you have a 10kGVWR hitch connection.

Only when you use a 12.5kGVWR ball mount, receiver and WD hitching, then would you have a 12.5kGVWR connection.

This would apply to any combination of hitch ratings or class.

99% of the 12.k to 14kGVWR OEM hitching is using the hitching with WD. Without WD then most ratings are cut in half.

Most of the hitching built today, I would personaly only use 1/2 of the design claimed rating. It's just that under designed or faulty materials and workmenship.

[Turbo_Bimmer]

OK, thanks for the replies.
I will check the weight capacity of each item, and give a safety margin over that.
The car is 3000lb and the trailer 1700lb. It's not that heavy. The truck is a van, E250 1993, 5.8L, 3.73 gears. I think it's rated for 8000lb, but I will check that to make sure.