Hello All,
I am hauling a Lance 990 camper, (about 4000 lbs), and from what I've been able to find out, the only "limit" to climbing a hill in 5th gear is my EGT's. Is that correct? Because if that's the case I should be able to overcome that with an alky/Water injection kit. Are there any other limitations? I have a 6 speed manual tranny. Thanks for any inputs. - Tom
__________________
2001 F-350 DRW, 4x4 PSD , 185K miles, 6-speed, Banks Power Pack, Banks Brake, Ford High Idle Controller
I feel like I could climb with no trouble, the truck is very strong, in fact I can press the pedal and feel acceleration, but at the same time I'm watching my EGT's climb.
__________________
2001 F-350 DRW, 4x4 PSD , 185K miles, 6-speed, Banks Power Pack, Banks Brake, Ford High Idle Controller
I feel like I could climb with no trouble, the truck is very strong, in fact I can press the pedal and feel acceleration, but at the same time I'm watching my EGT's climb.
What RPM and EGT are you talking about?
__________________
2000 F250 Lariat CC SB 4x4 PSD Auto
Climbing the hill in top gear, at 60 mph gives me an rpm of 2000, with about 15 to 18 pounds of boost. As far as EGT I usually wait until I see it hit 1200, then I down shift into a lower gear, typically I end up with 2400 rpms, in 4th gear, doing about 50 mph, with my EGT stable at 1000.
__________________
2001 F-350 DRW, 4x4 PSD , 185K miles, 6-speed, Banks Power Pack, Banks Brake, Ford High Idle Controller
I haven't seen anything about your situation that would make me want to install a water injection system. I wouldn't be concerned about towing at 1200° or at 2400 RPM to get up a hill. Will your EGT continue to climb beyond 1200° at 2000 RPM? You do have the complete Stinger kit and not just the chip?
__________________
2000 F250 Lariat CC SB 4x4 PSD Auto
Are there any other limitations? I have a 6 speed manual tranny.
With an automagic tranny, no.
But with your hand shaker tranny, you have to worry about lugging. NEVER allow the engine to lug.
Lugging means you have pedal to the metal but engine RPM is not increasing, and instead RPM is falling. Maybe falling ever so slightly, but falling just the same. Your analog tach is not precise enough to drive on the edge of lugging, so if you do it, then you need a digital tach - such as the digital tach that is included with the Ford factory optional auxiliary idle controller (AIC) fo '99-'04 PSDs.
The cure for lugging is to downshift.
The cure for too-high EGT is to back out of the go pedal a smidgen. So you should be able to climb the mountain at 1,200 to 1,250 EGT by modulating the go pedal. But while doing that, if you ever mash harder on the go pedal and speed/RPM does not increase, then you need to downshift, regardless of EGT.
__________________
My Sierra Blanca is a '99.5 PSD CrewCab hot-rod Towing Machine! BTS tranny; TurboRamAir intake and 4" stainless turbo-back exhaust; DP-Tuner tunes flashed into an Edge Evolution tuner; ISSPRO EV gauges and TTM; AIC. I special-ordered it new and plan to drive it until it quits.
Last edited by SmokeyWren : 05-31-2008 at 02:24 PM.
Reason: typo
Before this thing goes on let me just thank you folks for taking the time to educate a young pup like me, I'm not an expert so I really appreciate the help. O.K. in regard to answering a few questions, here goes:
Will your EGT continue to climb beyond 1200° at 2000 RPM? You do have the complete Stinger kit and not just the chip?[/font]
I've never let the EGT go over 1200 that I can recall, as soon as she reaches that point I downshift. I'm not sure how much higher it would climb if I left it 5th. The truck has the whole Stinger Kit, the 1/2 turbo, IC pipes, intercooler, chip and exhaust. [/font]
Lugging means you have pedal to the metal but engine RPM is not increasing, and instead RPM is falling. Maybe falling ever so slightly, but falling just the same. Your analog tach is not precise enough to drive on the edge of lugging, so if you do it, then you need a digital tach - such as the digital tach that is included with the Ford factory optional auxiliary idle controller (AIC) fo '99-'04 PSDs.
Even with the camper on my back I have plenty of pedal left, I've been easily able to accelerate going up hill in 5th gear. Typically I'll have the cruise set and my first indication I'm climbing is I hear the turbo start whinning, (a sound I love even to this day), the boost rises to about 15 to 18 pounds, and then I watch the EGT's climb until 1200. I then disengage the cruise, down shift, and climb the rest of the way in 4th. When the RPMs are up around 2300-2400 in 4th the EGT is about 1000. I do have an AIC for accurate RPM's. Anyway, that's a long answer, but the short answer is, in 5th(OD), I can stab the pedal, the boost will jump and away I go! - Tom
__________________
2001 F-350 DRW, 4x4 PSD , 185K miles, 6-speed, Banks Power Pack, Banks Brake, Ford High Idle Controller
Typically I'll have the cruise set and my first indication I'm climbing is I hear the turbo start whinning, (a sound I love even to this day), the boost rises to about 15 to 18 pounds, and then I watch the EGT's climb until 1200.
I would be pre-emptive and downshift before the EGTs rise to 1200, not that the temperature is so bad but more likely, your RPM are falling and the engine is lugging with the cruise set as you describe.
__________________
2002 F350 Lariat CC 4x4 Auto 4.10 DRW, DP-Tuner F5 live tuned stock, quiet, 40dd, 40, 60, 80 tow, 80e and 120r, B&W GN, BrakeSmart, 'pooned tank, tank and pre-pump mods, 2µ Dahl 100 filter, regulated return, BTS dual HPOP, AC singles with EDM 34 lpm nozzles, AIS, H2e, Spearco 6.0 IC, Hypermax 3.5" dp--> MBRP 4" 304SS exhaust, BTS tranny, 203º T-stat, Chevron ELC, coolant filter, Oilguard bypass with Schaeffer 9000, WranglerNW 200 amp alternator & Optima group 31 batteries, Nippon-Denso starter, SPA gauges, SteveRacer mods, Hella 80/100W 9007s, Hella Micro DE foglights, 1000FF driving lights, 220W backup lights, Stancor contactor, Michelin XPS Traction tires, X-Springs, Bilstein shox, custom bumpers but otherwise stock. Nov 30 '99 build engine with 16 K miles, Fluidampr, Comp Cam 910 springs, Melling LPOP and ARP headstuds. Alien-Patrol Customer Service Sucks!
Based on your last post I think you have a Powerpack instead of a Stinger,that's a 90 HP chip vs a 50 HP chip. If it was mine, I'd make sure I didn't have any boost leaks around the boots, make sure the wastegate actuator is tight, and make sure the air filter was clean. I'd also make sure the A/C condenser was clean and not restricting airflow to the intercooler. Then I would see if the EGT climbs beyond 1200° at 2000 RPM. I'm assuming that is the speed you like to drive at? 1200° or even a little higher isn't an issue for short periods.
__________________
2000 F250 Lariat CC SB 4x4 PSD Auto
This looks like it bears out some more research, we will be taking another trip, (fully loaded) in mid June, and I'll try to keep very accurate records and see what happens. Oh, BTW you're right, it's the Banks Power Pack. Thanks again for all the help guys. - Tom
__________________
2001 F-350 DRW, 4x4 PSD , 185K miles, 6-speed, Banks Power Pack, Banks Brake, Ford High Idle Controller
Last edited by USAFFLYER : 06-01-2008 at 12:58 AM.
But with your hand shaker tranny, you have to worry about lugging. NEVER allow the engine to lug.
Lugging means you have pedal to the metal but engine RPM is not increasing, and instead RPM is falling. Maybe falling ever so slightly, but falling just the same. Your analog tach is not precise enough to drive on the edge of lugging, so if you do it, then you need a digital tach - such as the digital tach that is included with the Ford factory optional auxiliary idle controller (AIC) fo '99-'04 PSDs.
The cure for lugging is to downshift.
The cure for too-high EGT is to back out of the go pedal a smidgen. So you should be able to climb the mountain at 1,200 to 1,250 EGT by modulating the go pedal. But while doing that, if you ever mash harder on the go pedal and speed/RPM does not increase, then you need to downshift, regardless of EGT.
John Deere not only condones lugging, heck they even use it as a marketing tool called "torque rise". Basically the analogy is you are plowing along at a RPM higher than the torque peak with a constant throttle setting. When tougher ground is encountered the engine lugs down into it's torque range and powers itself on through.
If you are able to keep the cruise control on and not lose speed, then the engine is not lugging.
Lugging will occur when the rpm is below the torque peak and the engine is losing rpm. It's OK to lose some rpm when you are already above the torque peak.
If downshifting and running the engine at higher rpm allows you to keep the egt within the proper range, then I agree that you are doing the right thing, and I think that you should continue operating the truck the way that you have been doing.
__________________
2001 F350 XLT 4X4, shift on the fly, 38 gal fuel tank, running boards, sliding rear window, black, crew cab, long bed, 4.10, automatic transmission, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, dual rear wheels, 7.3l turbo diesel, completely stock, 114,00 miles when purchased, now has 125,000 miles, repairs so far: starter, batteries, cps.
2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
Linear Mode
