My 5'ver (see sig) has 15" steel wheels. I've put somewhere around 45K miles on it since purchase new. Two days ago, I noticed one of the rear wheels was low. I took the wheel and tire off and dropped by a local tire shop to get the flat fixed.
It wasn't the tire. The rim had spring a leak. The guy at the tire shop said they see this from time to time. He showed me the bubbles on the inside of the rim and it was leaking through a pinhole in the steel.
Any one else seen this?
Florida Ed
__________________
2001 7.3 F-350 Dually Lariat CC LWB 4X2 Dark Green 4.10 4R100 5'ver Hauler (32' Montana 2 slides 10,500# - 2,000# tongue weight), 106 gal aux tank, 112K miles, nephews arguing over who will inherit it 'cause I'm gonna' drive it 'til I die. Bone stock.
2001 5.4 Gasser F-250 XLT Crewcab SWB 4X2 3.73 4R100 67K miles headed to 150K (wife's vehicle on the "junk-iron" theory of vehicle safety....most junk iron wins in a crash) stock as the day it was made
Before these: '00 F-250 CC PSD, '97 F-250 CC PSD, '94 Ford F-150, '91 Ford E-250, '81 Ford E-150, '66 Ford F-100 (cars not included)
You might want to try this..I had a wheel that was leaking via a pin-hole..this was on an alloy wheel. So this may not work on your steel wheel. The tire guy took a ball-peen hammer and struck (several times) where the pin hole was..he made a slight indention in the wheel..this sealed the hole and no more leaking...Now, not knowing where your leak is (on a weld) could make a difference as to if you can use this "fix"...be worth a try though..
Yes I had some white spokes on a TV one time that split at every spoke. That also is how I found my leak on 3 out of 4 rims. I got into checking and the wheels were only rated for 2200lbs/eh or about 800lbs shy of my load weight needs. The wheels wern't weight stamped.
I just put on new tires and wheels on my 5'r as mine also had 15" and needed tires. I now have modified 16" wheels rated for 3040lbs and a set of new steel belted Coopers. There was only a 1/2" difference in hieght on my tire size vs the 15".
Atleast now there's no more hunting for 15" tires that don't exist. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]
Hi Wing,
Why would anyone try and repair a high speed wheel that carry's load weight? That's just asking for trouble [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]
__________________
T_Bone
02 F350, 4X6, Crew, DRW, LWB, PSD, 6spd, 3:73, Island Blue, Stock, AEB2, Phoenix Az
Buy UNION work UNION. It pays off in the long run Define Union: A labor Union is nothing more than united workers with a common goal for better working conditions.
We all are in some sort of labor Union, some are just larger than others with better working conditions!
<font color="green">We see this all the time, more with aluminum than steel.
As fragile as aluminum is, I would be hesitant to trust a wheel that has been "pecked" on.
Aluminum wheels are porous and air can start in at one point, working its way through to exit several inches away.
Usually when a steel rim leaks, it is due to a crack that is too small to see; usually, if examined closely, there will be tell-tale streaks of rust on the inside of the rim, where the crack is.
I wouldn't be afraid of making it home with a cracked rim on a trailer; but, I would scrap it as soon as I could. </font>
Yes I had some white spokes on a TV one time that split at every spoke. That also is how I found my leak on 3 out of 4 rims. I got into checking and the wheels were only rated for 2200lbs/eh or about 800lbs shy of my load weight needs. The wheels wern't weight stamped.
I just put on new tires and wheels on my 5'r as mine also had 15" and needed tires. I now have modified 16" wheels rated for 3040lbs and a
Just curious...what wheels & tires did you go with? I'm in the same boat with my trailer. I'd like to have 16" "E" rated tires but not much room in the wheel wells. I'm now running 225/75/15's
__________________
'06 Ram 3500 4X4 QC CTD 6sp LB
'01 F350 PSD 4X4 6sp Crew Cab (sold)
'68 F250 C/S 4X2 C6/428PI
Stidham 24' enclosed car hauler
Bunch of big old cars
In theory, practice and theory are the same.
In practice, they are not.
<font color="green">I am not close enough to them at the present to stand them up side by side; but, I believe that there will be little difference in the height of 225-75-15 and 215-85-16 that are available in LR-E. </font>
__________________
T_Bone
02 F350, 4X6, Crew, DRW, LWB, PSD, 6spd, 3:73, Island Blue, Stock, AEB2, Phoenix Az
Buy UNION work UNION. It pays off in the long run Define Union: A labor Union is nothing more than united workers with a common goal for better working conditions.
We all are in some sort of labor Union, some are just larger than others with better working conditions!
I agree with LongRider, if the rim has a hole its time to replace it.
I also upgraded my tire and wheels to 16 inch. I when from 235X75X15 load range XL (2183#) to 225X75X16 load range E (2680#). I gained almost 500# per tire or 2000# for the trailer. The trailer axle weight is about 8000#. The load range E tires provided additional safety margin. The 225X75X16 are .5 inched larger in diameter, so I lost .5 inched between the tire. This was tight on my trailer but its worth it for the extra margin.
__________________
1989 F250 4X2 Super Cab 7.3 idi Sidewinder Banks Turbo and exhaust system 5 speed 4.10 gears, US Gear Diesel Exhaust Brake, Fuel Transfer Main Tank
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
