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General Diesel Discussion about diesels in general. All brands are welcome, please refrain from brand wars. Discussions about types of diesel fuel also go here.

       
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Engine Blowby?

I have a 95' 6.2 turbo diesel Chevy, when the engine is running there is smoke that comes up from the dipstick, when I remove the dipstick the smoke comes out like a kettle, its white and look like steam.

What does this mean? and what can be the problem? besides that everything runs OK.
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Old 08-28-2008, 03:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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First of all, what does your oil look like? Is it still 'black' or is it white? How many miles are on the engine? Also, when you first pull the dip stick out, do you see any milky white on the dip stick any where? Do you drive this diesel a lot or very little? And is it short or long trips? Is the vapor coming out worse or better when cold or hot? Also, after running down the road, is the dip stick ever been 'pushed out' from the tube?

It is possible that there is blow by. And that the 'white' you see is it. But if the blow by is THAT bad, the dip stick would be pushed out after prolong engine running (unless it locks in securely- my 4.9L Ford engine pushes it's stick out.... it's tired, but still runs okay).
__________________
1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
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Old 08-29-2008, 12:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Oil is black no sign of any white or milky colors, the engine has over 200k maybe 260k not really sure. There is no milky white on the dipstick anywhere, I just bought the truck so i don't know the history all too well.

The vapor is definately worse when running warm.hot, when its cold its not even there or is not as much. As far as I know the dipstick does not lock, and it has always been secure since I have bought it.
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Old 08-31-2008, 01:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well, that is a good sign. If it has 200-260K and you just got it, change the oil and put a quart or two of Power punch w/ the oil. I don't recall how many quarts a 6.5L can hold, but if it's 6-8 quarts oil, 1 quart of Power Punch should be fine. If it's 8-10 quarts of oil, 2 should be okay. Power Punch is an oil additive that kind of thickens things up. I've used it in older gas and diesel equipment where there is a high oil usage rate or blow by.

I've got a 3208 Cat that has a breather tube where after a nice run, it has 'vapor' blowing out for 6" past the tube.

Wait.. did you say a 6.2L? I thought by 95, the 6.2 was replaced by the 6.5?
__________________
1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
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Old 08-31-2008, 04:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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...

Its a 6.2, The VIN confirms it.

I'll try what you suggested, if I can have any time off from work.

Its under warranty as well. So I will take it in to a valid shop, and have them do it and see what they have to say.

Last edited by tonym81 : 08-31-2008 at 04:29 AM.
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Old 08-31-2008, 04:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Warranty?! Did you purchase from a used car dealer that warrantied the thing? If you did, that's good.
__________________
1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
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Old 08-31-2008, 07:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes I did, It came with a 12 month warranty, and covers the Engine, Transmission, Turbo, differential, and seals and gaskets.

Its a third party warranty.

Can I take it into a certified shop and have them fix whatever is wrong? and the wrranty will cover it?
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Old 09-01-2008, 11:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Ah, that changes the equation a bit. Those warranties are not the 'fix it all' some people think. You will have to read the 'fine print' and see what it covers EXACTLY.

Now, since you have a warranty like that, lets step back. Forget what I said.

Now, how long have you had it? And have you driven it regularly (how many miles put on it since you got it)? Have you added any engine oil- if so how much? I ask, since if you are close to an oil change, you might have the engine oil "tested/analyzed".

(I hope others post w/ their experiences w/ 3rd party warranties....)

I know there are kits you can do this yourself at times. But you should find a dealer/mechanic that can do an oil and coolant test. This will tell you if there are any thing in the oil (ie high levels of certain metal that can show wear in areas). A coolant analysis tells if there might be a leaking head and blowing exhaust into the oil and so on.

I would 'suggest' calling a GM dealership that handles diesels (sells larger vehicles also). Ask their for the service writer/assistant who works w/ diesels. Ask them if they have a diesel oil and coolant testing/analyzing service. Ask how much it would cost for them to get a sample (unless the service dept sells the kit for a user obtained sample). Getting a sample requires putting a small tube down the dip stick and sucking the oil into a container/small bottle. (Mechanics at work do this for the buses). If you get a complete kit to to it yourself- don't shove the hose all the way down, kind of half way- or you'll get muck). But if the shop will take one for you, better.

I know you can get a test bottle from Cat (and just about any other big manufacture). If yo drove a 7.3L, I know most International dealers (big truck) must have that kind of service.

But, read the extended warranty contract and look at the fine print. The engine maybe covered, but under what circumstances. Plus, you would have to contact the warranty company about any "claims". Plus, they would prob. have a shop to recommend. You wouldn't be able to just choose one and send it in. As I said, read the contract.

But the oil and/or coolant analysis can give some support.
__________________
1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed

Last edited by Kaliburz : 09-01-2008 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 09-08-2008, 03:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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How's this little project going for you? Have you decided to give it a test or just to drive it? If you tested, what were the results?
__________________
1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
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Old 09-10-2008, 12:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have not had time at all to much of anything with work being busy. I did manage to knock the price down from the dealer and get a brake job for free from them. I told them the Piston Rings are worn and the warranty does not cover it and he said he can fix it hopefully, their mechanic will give me his report his findings... and I do not fully trust them I will go get a test done and a report from a couple of my own mechanics and see what needs to be fixed as soon as i get a break from work.
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Old 09-10-2008, 04:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ah, so you are still kind of in the middle of negotiations. Cool, cool.

6.2 Turbo diesel?! So so someone added an aftermarket turbo? Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought all the 6.2's were naturally aspirated or did that turbo the last few 6.2's before the 6.5 TD's. I kind of sped read the postings originally.

Is this in a 1/2, 3/4 or 1 ton pickup? Or is it a diesel Blazer? If it's a pickup, did it have any signs of hard use? As in electric brakes, a trailer harness inside the bed, holes in the bed from a 5th wheel being in there? 4x4 or two wheel drive? Axle ratio and what kind of transmission? But from the puff you said, it's been a hard 200K miles....
__________________
1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
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Old 09-11-2008, 04:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The Turbo looks stock, not too sure about that history of the truck.

This is a 1 Ton pickup, with a flat deck, and a 5th wheel attachment inside the middle of the deck.

It was commercially used in the reports I have gathered.

Not too sure about the Transmission, but there is something wrong with it cause I can't get over 90 km/hr without red-lining it.

In the city it runs and hauls pretty decent, it takes full loads of cement, sand, and scaffold no problem up hills and in the city, highway is slow going.
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Old 09-11-2008, 04:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Check the tranny fluid if you have not. If it's not bright red.... there could be an issue (if you haven't checked it already). It should NOT smell burned.

90km/hr..... is that about 45-50MPH??? If you can't get up to that speed.... is it an OD transmission (aka 4 speed) or just a 3 speed? If you have a 4:11 rear axle ratio (or deeper) and a 3 speed, it might just be topping out. Just hard to say w/out knowing what axle ratio and tranny.

A 6.2L turbo, if factory, I guess should be mounted in the back of the valley of the V. Some of the aftermarket kits I've heard of puts the turbo on the passenger side exhaust.
__________________
1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
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