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I've wondered that too. I did quick shock some button batteries for the garge door opener. It gave them another month's worth of life. I think you'd have to figure out on the battery which tab is positive, and which is negative, so that you don't zap it too badly. And I would do it for just a couple of seconds or so, to see if the charge takes.
short_stuff
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Y2K F250 CC PSD Auto, Short-bed Lariat, Woodland Green/Gold, ordered 07/10/99, born 09/12/99, delivered 10/08/99, Access bed cover, Bed Rug, Zoodad mod, Viper Remote Start Alarm, Fumoto valve, 103K somewhat error-free miles (so far) [never back to dealer for anything]
Repairs: CPS, Water Separator Valve assembly, rear axle bearings, VSS, batteries, brakes, alternator, serpentine belt (x2), driver door pwrlock actuator, water pump
2009 VW Tiguan 2.0 l turbo 200 hp gas engine (TDI engine not available for it yet)
Not a good idea, some battery chemistries can violently ignite. People have been badly burned. How much life are you getting out of the batteries? I have never worn one out but I don't keep phones for too long.
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2000 F250 CC, PSD, Lariat, 4X4, DP Tuner 80HP PCM, AIS air filter, 4" Magnaflow SS Exhaust, Isspro Overhead Gauges, In-tank mod, Homemade CCV, AIH delete
2004 Honda Pilot EX-L for the wifey
2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T
2003 Yamaha Kodiak 450
"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice. And moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue." - Barry Goldwater
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin
"What you want is irrelevant, what you have choosen is at hand." - Mr. Spock
It is true, that the lithium batteries used in most cell phones have a propensity to explode. Zapping batteries is for older ni-cads that worked specifically because of the way their chemistry works.
Birken is right. Look at all of the laptop batteries that caught fire under normal use. Last thing I would want is my cell catching fire in my pocket or on the counter while I was sleeping.
I have had cell phones like most since they came out and have never had a battery go bad and tend to keep them for 2 - 3 years.
But recently had to replace the one in my sons Verizon Krazer after 7 months because it swelled up and would only stay charged for a few hours.
The kid in the Verizon was "nice enough" to pro-rate it down to $32.
I have had five phones in my life. Three of them now I would have kept but the batteries don't stay charged (two Motorolas one LG) after a couple of years and it ends up being cheaper getting a new phone than buying a new battery (although I haven't looked around online). Oh well, just wondering if there was an easy fix. Don't want any fires or explosions. Thanks for the help.
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03 F-350 6.0PSD SRW / Supercab / Short Bed / Rhino Liner / DR 3" Hanger Level Kit / DR Shocks / 18" Moto Metal 951 / BFG TA-KO 305-65-18 / Kahr K40 Elite98 in console/
Batteries have a life span. Unless you have the equipment to take it apart, get rid of all the growth which shorts it internally and put it back together I thing your out of luck.
Check e-bay I am betting you can get some serious deals from there.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
Shocking a single nickel-cadmium cell (NOT a multi-cell battery) is effective because Ni-Cd batteries form semi-conductive dendrites. (resistive filaments that "grow" from one plate to the other through the electrolyte separator and create an internal discharge path. Shocking cells destroys dendrites by burning them out, like fuse wires.
I don't know whether lithium cells form dendrites or not. If they don't, shocking them won't have much effect.
If you use a controlled amount of energy - say, by using a charged capacitor to provide the juice - the risk of ignition should be reasonably low.
But once lithium does ignite, it's a special hazard. Burning metals often react violently with water instead of extinguishing, dry-chemical extinguishers aren't effective, and CO2/Halon* extinguishers don't prevent re-ignition. You'll need a Class D extinguisher or a large quantity of dry, chemically-inert sand to smother and cool.
And to make life more interesting, lithium (along with sodium and potassium) is a Group I alkali metal which forms highly-corrosive lithium hydroxide when exposed to moisture.
*Yeah, yeah, I know they don't really contain Halon(tm) anymore. But everybody knows the name.
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Douglas Campbell, P.E.
1986 Isuzu P'up, 177,673.8 miles.
- Hella headlights (highly recommended)
- DOT C-2 back end (also recommended)
- R-12 air conditioner converted to R-406a. Saved ozone and money
- 4.1:1 final drive converted to 3.4:1. Quieter, better mileage but it's a good thing I live in the flat Midwest.
- 9/22/2007, age 21: Still running well when reluctantly sent away for reincarnation, due to body & frame rust.
Last edited by drcampbell; 02-05-2008 at 08:30 AM.
But once lithium does ignite, it's a special hazard. Burning metals often react violently with water instead of extinguishing, dry-chemical extinguishers aren't effective, and CO2/Halon* extinguishers don't prevent re-ignition. You'll need a Class D extinguisher or a large quantitys. you mean like getting magnesium to ignite???? and when it does----yehahahaaaaaa
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
You mean like getting magnesium to ignite???? and when it does----yehahahaaaaaa
Yeah, sort of like that. Except that lithium ignites more easily and magnesium doesn't form a corrosive alkali.
On the other hand, there isn't a great amount of lithium in a phone battery. It'll be intense, but it'll also be short lived.
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Douglas Campbell, P.E.
1986 Isuzu P'up, 177,673.8 miles.
- Hella headlights (highly recommended)
- DOT C-2 back end (also recommended)
- R-12 air conditioner converted to R-406a. Saved ozone and money
- 4.1:1 final drive converted to 3.4:1. Quieter, better mileage but it's a good thing I live in the flat Midwest.
- 9/22/2007, age 21: Still running well when reluctantly sent away for reincarnation, due to body & frame rust.
Quit using your car chargers and your batteries will last forever!!!! I have an LG 8300 that is 2 years old with over 2000 hours on the original battery and it has NEVER had a car charger plugged into it. I use a house charger with an inverter in the truck if i need charged throughout the day but most of the time i unplug it at 5:30 am and plug it in at 10:00 pm and the battery lasts all day. I don't plug it in on Friday as i don't get work calls on the weekend and i'll let it get really low, then plug it in saturday night.
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95 F350 CC PSD 5SPD Gear Vendors O/D 4x4
92 Explorer Eddie Bauer
05 Expedition 4x4 5.4 3 valve.
Former trucks:
2003 F250 CC 4x4 6.0 HEADACHE! Traded before it blew!
89 F250 2wd 7.3 5spd with 256K when sold
94 F250 4X4 IDI Turbo 7.3 5 spd 160K when sold
95 F250 S/C 4x4 PSD 5 spd with 146K when sold
00 F250 C/C 4X4 PSD 6 Spd with 126K when sold (180K now)
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Kahr K40 Elite98 in console
Linear Mode
