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Does anybody know how to test a compressor on a dehumidifier to see if it is burned up or not? My dehumidifier isn't working, and I don't know if the compressor is broke, or something telling the compressor to come on may be broke..
The most common failure mode is for the fan shaft to seize up with crud. Start by freeing, cleaning and lubricating it.
With the case open, you should be able to hear/feel whether the compressor's running. If the hot side's hot and the cold side's cold, that confirms it.
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Douglas Campbell, P.E.
1986 Isuzu P'up, 177,673.8 miles.
- Hella headlights (highly recommended)
- DOT C-2 back end (also recommended)
- R-12 air conditioner converted to R-406a. Saved ozone and money
- 4.1:1 final drive converted to 3.4:1. Quieter, better mileage but it's a good thing I live in the flat Midwest.
- 9/22/2007, age 21: Still running well when reluctantly sent away for reincarnation, due to body & frame rust.
The most common failure mode is for the fan shaft to seize up with crud. Start by freeing, cleaning and lubricating it.
I've gotten several "free" dehumidifiers that way. At my local dump they're set aside with the refrigerators and window air conditioners so they can recycle the refrigerant before they get put in with the scrap metal.
If the fan's not turning, the unit freezes up and stops producing water, so folks just toss them. I'll grab a couple that don't look too old or beat up. About 75% of the time, I do what Doug says: give the machine basic maintenance and they're good to go again. I use them in my rental properties and they've run for years after being "resurrected."
Clean the dust outta the coil and oil the fan motor every couple years. Of course, newer models are more efficient and may save me a few bucks a month off my electric bill; but that savings will take a long time to offset the cost of new unit.
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'01 F350 XLT, CC, 4x4, V10, SRW, LWB, Auto, 3.73LS, Island Blue, Off Road Package,
Auto Hubs & Cab Clearance Lights. Autometer water temp, tranny temp, & vaccuum
gauges. Line-X Bedliner, & the "incredible self-locking tailgate." White Night Backup
Lights & Volvo-eating Class V Hitch. Reverse Sensors.
Unfortunately there is not temp change in the two sides, so that really leads me to believe the compressor is out. The fan is fine, so looks like I am out of an unit as the compressor is the bulk of the expense...
It could also be that the humidistat, reservoir float switch, compressor overheat/overload switch and/or a loose connection is turning the compressor off.
These components are relatively inexpensive and simple to diagnose & replace. Just look for where there's voltage and where there isn't, starting with the line cord and progressing toward the compressor.
__________________
-
Douglas Campbell, P.E.
1986 Isuzu P'up, 177,673.8 miles.
- Hella headlights (highly recommended)
- DOT C-2 back end (also recommended)
- R-12 air conditioner converted to R-406a. Saved ozone and money
- 4.1:1 final drive converted to 3.4:1. Quieter, better mileage but it's a good thing I live in the flat Midwest.
- 9/22/2007, age 21: Still running well when reluctantly sent away for reincarnation, due to body & frame rust.
Last edited by drcampbell; 06-17-2009 at 11:38 AM.
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2000 F350 4x4 Dually, 4 door, 6 Spd, 155,000 miles. And completely paid for.. finally 
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