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I am looking at doing a BTM soon. I also have another need to either hire a welder, or buy a small unit. The one person I talked to so far about coming out to do 30 secs of welding or less wants to charge me more than I can get a small unit for.
Harbor Freight has one that is 90 amp, for about 110 bucks. My question is would that be larger enough for welding up exhaust pipe? Also my repair is welding a 1/2 inch bolt together. It is just a iron fence hanger, I think they are called J bolts... Anyway, it will have a little tension on it and be holding up the fence. So I figure I don't need full penetration. But would be able to come close since I would go all 360 degrees around the bolt.
Thoughts on this unit for exhaust pipe welding and my bolt issue are much appreciated.
I don't know anything about welding or welding equipment, but one option is to bolt it all together good and tight with muffler clamps, then drive the truck to a muffler shop for the final welding. Midas or some such would probably charge you only $20 or so if all you wanted them to do was weld the exhaust system together in three places ("S" pipe plus both ends of the BTM muffler).
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it last year. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat.
From the sounds of your post you either haven't done any wlding or very little. I would go with what Smoky said. A welder in unexperienced hands is as good as no welder at all.
x3.. the btm install is very easy.. all you need at the least is and air line with a grinding wheel and an impact wrench for the clamps.. I just did mine a lil while ago and it was a breeze, although i coulnt get my s pipe off to rotate it, no problem here though jut a little finessing with the pipes back and it lined up fine, not touchin or scraping and the pipe at the end behind the tire is ALMOST in the stock position you cant tell... If you tighten the clamps with an impact you DONT need to weld.. For my security I just the same grinding wheel and buzzed 2 little spots where each connection was made.. and just put 2 tack welds on those areas and on top of the clamps so the bolts didn't back off.. very easy... I would suggest if you can do that and just have someone tack thos areas for you youll be fine.. and if its a "local
" guy or a frind of a friend it should be almost nothing.. hope this helps good luck
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2000 7.3 Extended Cab Long Bed Lariat.... Van turbo (1.15ex.), Casserly stage 1's, DP tuned [()], IH uppies, 07 grille & lights, dieselsite boots, autometer gauges, 6637, walker BTM, CCV Mod, Oil X over, ITP boost anialator, Foil Delete, Add a leaf HD rear springs, leveled, 285 Nitto's, 200 gal. spray tank, 8' Fisher plow winged, 2.5 yard sander.
(waiting for reasonable answers on reasonable questions)
the other thing to be careful of is that you dont fry the electronics with the welder or it will get extremely expensive very quickly. The truck is not the place to learn to weld.
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2008 F-450 Lariat loaded on order 7/3/07 delivered 9/13/2007 Pueblo Gold and all the goodies except Nav radio and moonroof and Fisher 8'6" X-blade
2005
F-350 Lariat LOADED CC SRW LB 6.0 SOLD
Med. Wedgewood Blue
All Options except moon roof
8'6" Fisher X-blade SS
2003 PSD 6.0 Lariat CC SB SOLD
All options but the moon roof
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)], IH uppies, 07 grille & lights, dieselsite boots, autometer gauges, 6637, walker BTM, CCV Mod, Oil X over, ITP boost anialator, Foil Delete, Add a leaf HD rear springs, leveled, 285 Nitto's, 200 gal. spray tank, 8' Fisher plow winged, 2.5 yard sander.
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