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I have some very small rust blisters on my oil pan, and want to get them under control before things get out of hand. I ordered a POR-15 kit, but I was wondering about a few things, and since I could not find the answers elsewhere on the forum, I am turning to you all!
1) How much of the rust do you reomve. The POR-15 leaflet suggests that it is better applied over some rust. So, did you sand down to bare metal, or jeave some rust on the pan?
2) Did you use the POR-15 suppled degreaser, or something else (i.e. brake clean).
3) Did you find it necessary to use the "metal treatment"?
Thanks in advance for the advice. I recently managed to get my truck into my garage, so I have a lot of time to work on this.
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2002 F250 XLT 4WD SC SB with 6 Speed and Manual Shift Transfer Case. Pillar pod-o-gauges, Warn Premium Hubs, AIS, Fumoto, Edge 3” leveling kit on the front (with adjustable pan-rod bar), 4” blocks on the rear, Eaton Posi, Bilstein 5100s and 285 X 75 X 16 BFG MTs all around. Oil pan coated with POR-15 and Silver Krylon (to reflect the mind-rays). Fleetrite ELC and Dieselsite coolant filter.
I have used por 15 on seveal pieces of my 67 project truck and I am quite happy with it, however I have yet to test it as my truck is still under construction. I used it on my frame first and the paint is tough as nails and looks good. to answer your questions:
1)You must atleast remove all of the flaky rust as well as all dirt, grease, and other contaminents. Its designed to bond to rust so if you have a rusty metal surface that has been brushed with a while wheel it should be good. However, I have strayed from the recommended practice by putting por 15 on bare metal. Just make sure it has a good amount of tooth or scuffs to bind to. The stuff seems to stick to anything. The main thing you want to stay away from is putting it on other paints, it won't stick.
2) I would use what comes in the kit, it defenitely can't hurt. Again you must make sure all of the loose stuff is taken off and everything is dirt and grease free.
3) The metal prep will flash rust after you wash it off so it helps give a bit of rust to bond to. Its up to you if you really want to do that, but I would recommend following the directions since what I have done is not tested or proven.
__________________ 07 F-350 xlt 6.0 PSD LB CC SRW 4x4, black on tan, A/T, 5" exhaust w/4" downpipe 67 F-250 Project truck, currently in a billion pieces 70 F-250 4x4 (highboy)
Past trucks: 04 F-250 xlt 6.0 PSD SB extcab 4x4, 6spd, all stock and 97 F-250HD xlt 7.3 PSD extcab LB 4x4, 5spd, Superchips tuner, 4" turbo back exaust, K&N CAI, 02 intercooler installed, Sold
Also, make sure you were some latex gloves and clothes you don't care about. Once it dries on your skin its there for the next week or so. I learned the hard way with that.
__________________ 07 F-350 xlt 6.0 PSD LB CC SRW 4x4, black on tan, A/T, 5" exhaust w/4" downpipe 67 F-250 Project truck, currently in a billion pieces 70 F-250 4x4 (highboy)
Past trucks: 04 F-250 xlt 6.0 PSD SB extcab 4x4, 6spd, all stock and 97 F-250HD xlt 7.3 PSD extcab LB 4x4, 5spd, Superchips tuner, 4" turbo back exaust, K&N CAI, 02 intercooler installed, Sold
I'm rebuilding a Bronco and I've painted both sides of floor and everything else under it with POR 15. It's amazing stuff. IMO, you have to go by the directions.
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05 F-350 Crewcab 4x4, 6.0, Auto, Dually, My new Tow Rig
95 F-350 Crewcab 4x4, 7.3, Auto, Awesome Tow Rig...Sold on May 17/09 (went to a good home)
80 F-250 4X4, 429, 4 Speed, Lifted, Solid Axles, Boggers, 450,000km and going strong...Gonna Go
90 Bronco, Work in Progress
Also, make sure you were some latex gloves and clothes you don't care about. Once it dries on your skin its there for the next week or so. I learned the hard way with that.
^^^^ what he said.
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2001 F-350 Lariat 4x4 Crew *4" BDS suspension lift w/315-75's * Ford AIS * MKO 5" exhaust * All 4 corners cleared * Front Reese Receiver * Draw Tite Fold Over Gooseneck * Reese 15K Sliding 5er * Gauges Whited Out * IC Foil Delete * Dieselsite Coolant Filter kit * DiPricol Optix White Faced Turbo,Pyro,Trans Gauges w/Dash Mount Pod * DP Tuner F5 60T 80E 120R 140X * John Wood Valve Body * ITP SS X-Over Line * ITP Boost Annihilator * 6.0 Trans Cooler * TCI Truck Master Triple Disc Billet Converter (-200 RPM) * Reviva Transmission * ESOF Converted to Manual Warn Hubs * 203' Thermostat * Turbomaster Wastegate Actuator * Gutted EBPV * Centramatics * Walbro GLS392 * Ford AICM * ITP Pre-pump * One Very Understanding Wife*
Thanks everyone! I bought some little sanding wheels for my Dremel, and I am about to go to work!
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2002 F250 XLT 4WD SC SB with 6 Speed and Manual Shift Transfer Case. Pillar pod-o-gauges, Warn Premium Hubs, AIS, Fumoto, Edge 3” leveling kit on the front (with adjustable pan-rod bar), 4” blocks on the rear, Eaton Posi, Bilstein 5100s and 285 X 75 X 16 BFG MTs all around. Oil pan coated with POR-15 and Silver Krylon (to reflect the mind-rays). Fleetrite ELC and Dieselsite coolant filter.
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