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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Frame question

So I have been looking for a truck with a service box on it. I know a guy that has a 1986/460/5 spd with a decent box on it. I think it's an F350. I know that the truck needs lots of love, then it's still a 6-8 MPG gasser. So maybe I would look at it as buying the box with a truck that will crap out soon.

So my question concerns the frame. On newer trucks a Chassis/can has a flat frame across the rear axle and a pickup had a hump there. (Correct me if I'm wrong) so if this is a truck with a hump, what kind of crap would I be getting into if I found a good Chassis/cab to install the box on to? I'm only concerned with the frame issues because the box is pretty much self contained with the only connection to the truck being electrics for the crane.

I'm sorry if this is confusing. Feel free to ask me *** I am talking about.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 01:26 AM
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At worst, you'd weld/bolt a vertical plate to the bottom of the box running just outboard of each frame rail. Then you'd lower the box onto the frame, and bolt the plates to the sides of the frame rails. Add shims between the box & the tops of the rails as necessary.

You can get ideas for stuff like this by browsing the Ford upfitters website. It doesn't go back to '86, but you can look at what Ford recommends for newer trucks, and apply it to yours.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...bodybuild.html


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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:15 AM
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I picked up a bed (Knapheide) from a crane for my truck. I was told it was from a 2000 truck. I measured from WB center to the cab. It looked like it would fit. I bought it. After I got it home, I found a nameplate with #'s and looked it up on the internet. Then I realized I needed to add 4" to my measurement from the wheel base to the cab.

I decided I wasn't going to find a bed cheaper and ended up cutting 4" out of the length of the bed and welding it together. I had already looked into replacing all the doors, handles and bottom pans.

When it was all painted and perched above my pickup frame, I found that it did not clear the leaf spring perch mounts. So I had to cut the bottom of the (corner tool box) rear pans, invert and re-weld.

Turned out the bed was NOT from a 2000 truck.

If I remember correctly, we used a 5" or 6" c channel at the rear of the truck + maybe a 1.5" spacer. At the front we used 1.5" or 2" square channel. DO NOT WELD to the frame. You can weld to the bed.

I consider myself a pretty good welder now.

SO ... measure real good before you buy the bed. If you have a straight frame, it will be much easier to mount a bed.

2002 F350 7.3 psd supercab dually 2wd, AIS, Moog joints, Bilstein, Michelin LTX, Dieselsite coolant filter, red ELC, prepump spin-on fuel filter, 230,000 miles, hutch/harpoon mod, marinco mod, scan gauge ll, Zoodad, Dieselsite boots, pedestal delete, CNC Fab w/ crossover oil lines, 6.0 trans cooler, replaced oil pan, Walker BTM
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Ugh. I need something more work ready. I have my eye on a truck in Minnesota right now. Hoping it's not a Minnesalta.

2, 2007.5 LMM C5500 passenger buses each travelling 100,000 highway miles a year, as of December 2014, each over 700,000 miles.
1, 2006 C5500 passenger bus, with a reman engine at 425,024 miles on 28 Sep 2014.
1, 2013 Freightliner M2 chassis/Cummins 6.7 ISB passenger bus travelling 100000 mountain miles per year.
2, 2010 Ford F650 buses with Cummins engines, each at about 300,000 miles.
1, 2015 Ford Transit 11 passenger wagon with the Powerstroke 5 cyl engine traveling about 125,000 miles per year.
The bane of my existence: A 2006 Sprinter.
And a bunch of stupid minivans.
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