Join Date: Jan 2011
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I picked up a bed (Knapheide) from a crane for my truck. I was told it was from a 2000 truck. I measured from WB center to the cab. It looked like it would fit. I bought it. After I got it home, I found a nameplate with #'s and looked it up on the internet. Then I realized I needed to add 4" to my measurement from the wheel base to the cab.
I decided I wasn't going to find a bed cheaper and ended up cutting 4" out of the length of the bed and welding it together. I had already looked into replacing all the doors, handles and bottom pans.
When it was all painted and perched above my pickup frame, I found that it did not clear the leaf spring perch mounts. So I had to cut the bottom of the (corner tool box) rear pans, invert and re-weld.
Turned out the bed was NOT from a 2000 truck.
If I remember correctly, we used a 5" or 6" c channel at the rear of the truck + maybe a 1.5" spacer. At the front we used 1.5" or 2" square channel. DO NOT WELD to the frame. You can weld to the bed.
I consider myself a pretty good welder now.
SO ... measure real good before you buy the bed. If you have a straight frame, it will be much easier to mount a bed.
2002 F350 7.3 psd supercab dually 2wd, AIS, Moog joints, Bilstein, Michelin LTX, Dieselsite coolant filter, red ELC, prepump spin-on fuel filter, 230,000 miles, hutch/harpoon mod, marinco mod, scan gauge ll, Zoodad, Dieselsite boots, pedestal delete, CNC Fab w/ crossover oil lines, 6.0 trans cooler, replaced oil pan, Walker BTM
1974 CJ6 ... off the frame needs work
2013 Expedition... wife's car
Panhead ... 53 motor, 51 tanks, swingarm frame, B grind cam, S&S carb, drum brakes ... It doesn't just sit in the garage