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Alright so im driving down to maryland on friday to get a rust free bed that I bought for $350. I have a 10'x12' snowmobile trailer and I was wondering if I should just lay it upside down on the rails and ratchet strap it down. The rails are rhino lined so I don't really see any side effects of doing this. Any other ideas?
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Diesel Tech For Yardmaster INC.. College Degree In Heavy Duty Diesel and Power Generator Systems
1997 F-250 Heavy Duty 4x4 Off Road EX.Cab Short Bed. -4" Suspension Lift - 4" exhaust - 3" Downpipe - 5" Stacks - 10Kmod - Shimmed FPR - Home made air intake - Rosewood Stage 1's - TS 6pos Chip - 4:10 gears - Valair SMF conversion - currently tore apart for restoration
2004 F-350 FX4 - 4" Turbo Back - WORST truck I have ever owned - For sale
I've done this before, I cut some wooden posts to fit the corner pockets on the beds and put the new bed upside down on the existing bed, dowling them together. Some C clamps on the rails and you're good to go, no extra toll fees for the trailer.
__________________ God, Guns & Guts made America free!
When I bought mine from a guy who runs them from Georgia to Michigan he dropped it in Cinicnnati. He had them stacked on a long flatbed trailer, no issues or problems. When I got rid of my old one I set it on a flatbed trailer just like it sits on the truck, ran two ratchet straps to hold it down (not too tight) and there was no damage other than the right side caved in by a motor home driver at the Flying J fuel island in Walton, KY - that damage was done before I swapped beds and was why I replaced my rust free bed.
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed, 2 wheel drive, 3.55 gears, 286,000 miles, Edge Evolution CTS (LINK TO MY REVIEW), LUK clutch, homemade REAR BUMPER, open element AIR FILTER, 36" ARE contractor cap. With tools, full of fuel and me on board (300 lbs) steer 3620, drive 3860 total 7480.
Last edited by Believer45; 03-09-2009 at 10:22 PM.
Flipping it over on the other bed is an excellent idea but that would mine I would have to make a 400 mile journey with just the downpipe hahah
Why? Is the downpipe the only exhaust you have now?
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed, 2 wheel drive, 3.55 gears, 286,000 miles, Edge Evolution CTS (LINK TO MY REVIEW), LUK clutch, homemade REAR BUMPER, open element AIR FILTER, 36" ARE contractor cap. With tools, full of fuel and me on board (300 lbs) steer 3620, drive 3860 total 7480.
Gotcha. If you use the trailer I would transport with the bed upside down and several straps but none too tight holding it to the trailer.
You could also make a couple of offset "pegs" like redneck steve was talking about, just put one sticking up attached to a piece of 1/2" plywood and locate the other one 6-8" away sticking the other way and screwed/lag bolted in. The only stress on the blocks would be sliding the new bed straight back, which is the direction this arrangement would be strongest. You would have to shear off the "pegs" to have an issue. Low buck, no trailer to deal with, much less chance of damage due to straps bowing in the fenders or the bottom of the bed resting on the trailer (depending on whether you transport it upside down or right side up).
CLICK HERE to see what I am thinking about. Take a look at the photo details/comments box too.
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed, 2 wheel drive, 3.55 gears, 286,000 miles, Edge Evolution CTS (LINK TO MY REVIEW), LUK clutch, homemade REAR BUMPER, open element AIR FILTER, 36" ARE contractor cap. With tools, full of fuel and me on board (300 lbs) steer 3620, drive 3860 total 7480.
Last edited by Believer45; 03-10-2009 at 09:50 PM.
Just cut holes in the new bed for the stacks and set it over them. Although I think you'd have to be pretty tall to do that though.
I assume you're eventually going to install it with the stacks, so the holes would be needed in any case.
With Dave's offset peg idea, you'd need to make sure the pegs (and bed) didn't move sideways (rotating the pegs). Although ratchet straps crisscrossed between the tie-down points on the two beds would secure it nicely (front left of installed bed to front right of cargo'd bed, etc.)
Thanks Redneck Steve!
I got to try out your idea yesterday, and it worked great!
Now I just need to round up three stout friends or a forklift to get it unloaded.
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1997 F350 CC DRW E4OD POS. electric fuel, DIY6637, Beans Stage I. 200k and counting. webshots
Glad it worked out for you! Another tip: Get a couple sheets of plywood to lay the body on when you get it down, then carefully roll it on to the front panel. From there have a couple guys on that end to lift it straight up and a couple more to catch the tail end as it tips down, be careful not to crush the lower body panels. I set mine on saw horses while I worked on it.
__________________ God, Guns & Guts made America free!
Thanks Redneck Steve!
I got to try out your idea yesterday, and it worked great!
Now I just need to round up three stout friends or a forklift to get it unloaded.
Looks like you've got some alignment issues on that pass front tire!
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-Steve
'95 F-250 Ext. Cab long bed 7.3L 4:11 2WD
IDM Mod, HPX, DIY Intake
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