Other Technical QuestionsDiscussion of other technical topics. Please see the sticky post at the top of the thread listing for specific rules. The rules for this forum are more restrictive than they have been in the past.
I need some tranny diagnosis on my 98 Taurus - what did I break?
I developed a tranny line leak while at an airport in NYC at 4am. I needed to get home, so I drove 60 miles. When I got off the highway it was slipping like a mother. I could not get up one hill and had to take a different way home that avoided the hill. I then fixed the line with some hose, filled the tranny with 6-7 quarts and took it for a drive. I now have hard 1-2 shift. The tranny hangs in 1st for too long. In order to get a smooth shift I have to back out of the accelerator at 2k, pause for 2 seconds and then ease back in. All the other gears shift as smooth as butter. I downshifts just fine as well. What did I screw up? Should I even bother changing the filter or just keep running it until it completely craps?
It is a 98 taurus with 194k miles. I ran mobil 1 tranny fluid in it and it shifted perfectly until this incident. Thanks.
__________________
2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 100,500 miles. truck Pictures
Possibly damaged the shift solenoid, I had a 99 Taurus that was ran low on fluid, had a hard 1-2 and 2-3 shift, replaced the solenoid and it shifted fine after that. I've heard it's a common problem with the Taurus and Windstar transmissions.
Thanks guys. Mark, what are my chances of nursing this thing for a while if I get off the gas and let it drop into gear easier? I don't know anything about the internals of these things.
I had someone on the taurus site say to possibly change vss. I am not sure what that is. But, I did beat this old girl to get home. A NYC tow and repair at 4am would have cost me way more than this car is worth. I have rust and 194k miles on it. But, if I can drive it like a semi-automatic and manual shift into 2nd with letting off the gas, I would do that for a little while.
I don't want to blow $100 in fluid and filter if there is no point. Thanks.
__________________
2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 100,500 miles. truck Pictures
Last edited by clydesdale; 01-28-2013 at 05:51 AM.
You should be able to nurse it a bit further. Every time the trans makes a 1-2 shift the remains of the clutch get hot and warp a bit more. Eventually it is going to warp so bad that the clutch can't release. If I remember that trans correctly at that point it will start in second gear and won't have reverse.
__________________ Mark Former Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007
“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.” ― Neil deGrasse Tyson
Thanks Mark, that is the kind of info I would like to understand. Can I assume that if I let off the gas and let is slowly go in, where it actually shifts without any harsh attitude, that will allow this thing to continue on down the road for longer than if I accelerate normally and let it shift harshly? Do they usually catastrophically fail or will things gradually get worse? I will not be going on any long trips, but it could be a nice car to run in the salted roads of the north east. Today is a great example. I have it with me at work now and we are getting snow and freezing rain. Thanks for your help.
__________________
2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 100,500 miles. truck Pictures
Mark, I am now getting some major slippage in 2nd and 3rd gear. I have driven the car for about 1k around town miles on the salty roads of NY. I would love to get one more month, or about 400 more miles out of this. Is there any additive that will give me some grip? I know this thing is done, but I want to squeak just a touch more out of it. Then my better car can come back out to play and I will have 6 months to shop for something new to me. Thanks.
__________________
2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 100,500 miles. truck Pictures
OK, thanks Mark. The fluid level is slightly higher than it should be. It is a little high on the dip stick. Do you think that will have any real affect? Would you even bother with dropping the filter, or is the most you would do is the switch to type F?
I realize this is all turd polishing. I would just like to get out of the last month of the salt season. 400 more miles would be nice. Thanks.
__________________
2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 100,500 miles. truck Pictures
Normally I'd say leave the filter, but in this case I will bet there is enough clutch material in the filter to restrict it. A little bit high won't matter to this.
__________________ Mark Former Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007
“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.” ― Neil deGrasse Tyson
Do I need to replace the filter, or just remove it? Does the car need a filter, considering it's current condition? The only reason that I ask this is that I may not be able to get the filter for the weekend.
Like I said, I know this is turd polishing. This is the end of the road for this car. Thank you very much for your advice.
__________________
2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 100,500 miles. truck Pictures
I bought a new filter and 10 quarts of type F. I also picked up a bottle of lucas "stop slip". I won't even try that if the type F and new filter gets it going. Thanks.
__________________
2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 100,500 miles. truck Pictures
Ok Mark, I have F type in there, a new filter, and a bottle of Lucas Stop Slip. I put the Lucas in because the car still slips so I figured I have nothing to loose. The car is kind of odd now. If I put the car in "D", it will pull away with good torque, but then the car shifts into what I thought was second but it will then slip quite a bit. If I then drop it to "2" it will down shift and accelerate. If I start in "1" and then shift up to "2" it will not slip. This will get me to 3k rpm and about 35 miles per hour. Once I shift into "D" the car goes into 3rd and the slipping starts. It is as if the car goes from 1-3 when in "D". It slips and acts like it skips second gear. Is that possible? Believe it or not, once I am going, I can shift between "2" and "D", depending on whether I have to go up hill, down hill or level and I can move along at a pretty good pace. So, I think I may get the miles I want out of it.
But, what do you think of the 1-3 and possible skipping of 2nd gear? Thanks so much for your info.
__________________
2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 100,500 miles. truck Pictures
If the computer detects slip in second gear it will skip second gear. With the shifter in 2 the computer raises the pressure, so there will be less slipping.
__________________ Mark Former Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007
“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.” ― Neil deGrasse Tyson
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.