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Pulse plugs incorporate a pulse circuit, which stores incoming electrical energy from the ignition system and releases the stored energy in a powerful pulse of power. Instead of 50 watts of peak power typical of all spark plugs, pulse plugs deliver up to 10 times more peak power. It takes electrical power to light fuel. The more power (watts) the better. Nothing can compete with Pulstar
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Too much junk/toys to mention, ever changing due to too getting bored too quickly. I need a 10 step program!
Want to call? I'm in the book. Want to argue....First explain the square root of negative one....lol
I am not all that "sold" on them. there have been lots of "revolutionary" changes for plugs. Multi tip being one of them. When I looked up plugs for the wife's '04 Honda accord they were $25.00/each!! at $3.99 ea and 30MPG I'm okay for now, Oh I allmost forgot, they DON"T say how long they last...
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD, LB, Dually,
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco fifth wheel 323 RKS, Robins 16K dual axis hitch
Apillar pod with: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost
Hypermax Cowl induction, Flex-A-Lite 26K tranny cooler w/fan
K&N air filter (we'll see in a million miles)
Tekonsha "prodigy" brake control
Train Horns: Pictures here
looks like a less effective way to have a multiple spark discharge.
AKA MSD.
AKA MSD IGNITIONS.
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1994 7.3 I.D.I. Navistar 444 CI
ATS Factory TURBO E4OD Red On white Crew Cab DRW 4:10 w/ AUBURN LIMITED SLIP
3" ATS Exhaust and turbo housing, Banks Trans Command, calibrated pump, K&N filter, Gruss style coolant filter, 203K+MI not a lick of trouble with the motor. now on 16th trans. 10 under factory 100K mile warranty
Alpine CVA-7878 XM radio 6cd changer 3 8" phoenix gold subs 75x4 Sony mobile ES gold 4ch amp, Sony 500W 1ch amp MB quart components in Q forms kick panels. 1 farad cap.
Pro car parts jewel cut headlamps and turn signals
APC clear cab markers, suvlights.com harness silverstar bulbs and L.E.D.'s in the fenders. IT's paid for and its MINE!
Family Toys and tools,
00'F350 psd CC Drw 2wd Bright Amber Western Hauler
SOLD 01' Peterbilt 330 4Dr. Texas trucks conversion cAt 350hp
02' Psd Excursion Limited ultimate Estate Green helliwig swaybar 101K miles
1996 fetherlite 4 horse GN, 2003 sooner 6 horse GN with midtack
I am not all that "sold" on them. there have been lots of "revolutionary" changes for plugs. Multi tip being one of them. When I looked up plugs for the wife's '04 Honda accord they were $25.00/each!! at $3.99 ea and 30MPG I'm okay for now,Oh I allmost forgot, they DON"T say how long they last...
It's in their FAQ section Q: How long do Pulstar™ plugs last?
A: Pulstar™ plugs lasts as long as most spark plugs - about 50,000 miles depending on the condition of your vehicle and driving habits.
Their proof readers could use a little help with spelling and grammar....
I'm not all that enthusiastic to try them at $25/each.
The OEM platinum-tip plugs in my Mustang should be good for 100K, according to Ford. My Mustang is getting 26-28 MPG commuting to work. IF they improved my fuel economy by 5%, it would take over 21,000 miles to justify the cost with $4/gallon gasoline....
Sounds like hokey to me. Yes, you can store energy in a capacitor but you can't get more energy out than you put in. In fact you will always lose some. IT IS ENERGY, NOT POWER, THAT LIGHTS THE FIRE. The only source of energy for a sparkplug is the ignition coil or circuit driving it. I suspect that the plug in question is just an old fashioned gapped plug. These have a spark gap in series with the regular ignition gap up in the insulator area. When the ignition coil "fires" its voltage rises until the first gap breaks down, since its breakdown is higher than the gap in the combustion chamber, the voltage reaches a much higher level than it would have with just the combustion chamber gap. When the first gap breaks down it acts like a switch and the high voltage passes to the combustion chamber gap which in turn fires or breaks down. The resultant higher voltage will produce a "hotter" initial spark, even though the same energy is dissipated over the total spark duration. The power peak is higher but the energy dissipated is not. The old timers used this series gap technique to fire fouled plugs. The only time you may need something like this is if there is something seriously wrong with your engine.
I have designed and built electronic ignitions since the 1960s. Both CDI and variations of electronic Kettering systems. It is hard to improve on the present factory ignition systems. The only time you may have a need to improve the ignition on a modern day engine is if it is highly modified and the RPM range is raised significantly.
__________________ 97 F-250 SC LB PSD. 4x4, BTS E4OD, 4:10LS. Baby Swamps, DP-Tuner F5 custom 6 program chip, 1.0 housing, SD-IC, SD-HPOP, IDM mod, HPX, Black Box ICP mod, Black Box MAP sim mod, Hypermax DP & 5" ex., Aero-Turbine, TYMAR intake, RW Turbo-Trac, Gauges, Airlift bags, Add-a-leaf, Superwinch hubs, Class V rear receiver, RBW Lil Rocker, DIY Tow hooks. Milemarker hyd. winch. Elkhorn 9VS slide-in, Nomad 24 ft. fifth/w slide, Century topper, old classic Sooner 18' 4 horse stock trailer. StarFlyte by DynaMax 6.8 V10 If you don't care where you are, you ain't lost.
Larry
Sounds like hokey to me. Yes, you can store energy in a capacitor but you can't get more energy out than you put in. In fact you will always lose some. IT IS ENERGY, NOT POWER, THAT LIGHTS THE FIRE. The only source of energy for a sparkplug is the ignition coil or circuit driving it. I suspect that the plug in question is just an old fashioned gapped plug. These have a spark gap in series with the regular ignition gap up in the insulator area. When the ignition coil "fires" its voltage rises until the first gap breaks down, since its breakdown is higher than the gap in the combustion chamber, the voltage reaches a much higher level than it would have with just the combustion chamber gap. When the first gap breaks down it acts like a switch and the high voltage passes to the combustion chamber gap which in turn fires or breaks down. The resultant higher voltage will produce a "hotter" initial spark, even though the same energy is dissipated over the total spark duration. The power peak is higher but the energy dissipated is not. The old timers used this series gap technique to fire fouled plugs. The only time you may need something like this is if there is something seriously wrong with your engine.
I have designed and built electronic ignitions since the 1960s. Both CDI and variations of electronic Kettering systems. It is hard to improve on the present factory ignition systems. The only time you may have a need to improve the ignition on a modern day engine is if it is highly modified and the RPM range is raised significantly.
Leaning to your answer. Thanks for the response!
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Too much junk/toys to mention, ever changing due to too getting bored too quickly. I need a 10 step program!
Want to call? I'm in the book. Want to argue....First explain the square root of negative one....lol
So, bascially, if you have an 'older' vehicle, improving the ignition system w/ a MSD or similar or a higher output coil and keeping your ignition wires good will do more good then this plug.....
That's what I thought.... I suppose it's the old saying, if it sounds too good to be true, it prob. is....
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1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
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