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I got all the bids and went with Lowe's. They are going to drop deliver everything for 2K at my place up north.
This weekend I am going to put the cross pieces up this weekend. Here are my questions:
1. With the issues of condensation. I am leaving the asphalt shingles so anything will not rot out the plywood.
2. Condensation again. I am thinking I am going to put down caulking when I put the cross pieces down. I am also thinking I am going to pitch them a 1/2 inch over 12 feet so water will not be able to remain against the wood. Do I need to worry about that?
3. Do I screw or nail the cross pieces down?
4. Any suggestions as to how to get up a A frame safely? I have done it using ropes tied off to the chimney, but it gets a little scarry at times. Staging will not work because of the steepness of the roof, nor will roof jacks because they can not go steep enough. I have tried them and they pitch you off they way they work.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
first off, I do not know what cross pieces are, if you are talking about something like perlins, then I wouldn't even install them. I have installed thousands of sq's of steel, and never needed Perlins over an existing asphalt roof. Second since you are in a snow area, you will want the roofing to sit on as flat of an area as possible. Also when you install any type of roofing always install tar/felt paper over your existing roof. Third if you do install the perlins, then no need for caulk or other form of sealer, if the roof is installed correctly they should never see liquid of any form. Lastly take an extension ladder apart, rope or strap the pieces together at one end, and fold it over the top of the roof so that each side of ladder is on each side of the roof. If you need to get lower on the roof, place a roof jack on the roof, and hang the upper part of a piece of an extension ladder over the roof jack, and you can adjust it up and down to access the whole roof. You will have to keep moving the roof jack next to your panels as you move across the roof. Hope this helps
The ladder idea is priceless. Never thought of that.
Some people say screw it to the shingles and others want the space for air circulation. I was thinking of adding a layer of foam insulation between there.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
The ladder idea is priceless. Never thought of that.
Some people say screw it to the shingles and others want the space for air circulation. I was thinking of adding a layer of foam insulation between there.
If it were me ,I'd put felt paper down ,,& steel right over it ...
Moisture between should not be an issue..
If the roof is steep enough,, you can leave one end of the ladder right on the ground....
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Rick.....
97 F 350 ...Lucky 13 "Most stuff's just stuck & needs hittin with a hammer"....
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Last edited by action4478 : 09-05-2008 at 06:00 PM.
Well I got everything set and ready to go. I used 2x4 with a 1/2 shim for perlins because they were free and I will be putting 2" foam down for better R value.
Getting up and down the roof was easy. It was steep enough that we walked up and down the perlins like stairs. I didn't have to use a ladder at all.
I think with a couple people I will be able to walk the roofing right up the pitch via the perlins.
This is going better than I dreamed.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
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