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Old 08-31-2007, 02:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Pulling a well pump

sometime Sunday or Monday I'm going to help a friend pull their submersible well pump out of the hole. The damn thing is 320 foot down a 342" hole. Plastic pipe. I'm going to use my National boom truck and A endless sling double choked around the well pipe.

I haven't been out there to see it yet as I'm out of town but it would appear that they DID NOT install the wire rope cable to support the pump and they used plastic pipe.

we are going to fashion a clamp to hold the pipe out of some 4x4's with a V notch in them and some all thread to clamp them down.

Anything I should be especially mind full of other than the obvious pipe braking or slipping and falling back down the well?
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Old 08-31-2007, 06:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

Be sure to turn the power off so the pump doesn't turn on and spin loose while your lifting it up out of the hole.
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Old 08-31-2007, 06:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

I've pulled hundreds of pumps growing up, almost all of them hung on either galvanized pipe or pvc (links with couplings). Afew others were hung by someone else on poly but we never did any that deep with the poly.

I would say you have a HUGE job ahead of you - the best thing that you could hope for is that the check valve in the bottom leaks letting some of the weight off.

The guy who installed that mess without a lift cable should be shot... what a mess!! Good luck to you.
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Old 08-31-2007, 09:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

You don't need to clamp the PVC pipe. Just cut a slot in either a "good" wooden 2X6 or a 1/4" steel plate to place on the top of the casing to support each coupling. There are a few different types of pitless adapters and that can be the toughest part. Most lift straight up. After the pitless is "up" and removed. Make/use a short "tee" to screw into the top of each section (do not overtighten). Use a regular strap with loops. Loop around "tee", pull one section, rest on "plate", unscrew section, repeat 16 times. Do not reuse PVC. Purchase 1" 160 psi poly pipe. Poly pipe doesn't break so you don't need a "safty" cable or rope.
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Old 08-31-2007, 10:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

I don't agree with using poly pipe at all. Unless you have a machine designed to pull it it's a real bear to deal with.

Also I don't see any reason not to reuse schedule 40 pvc pipe (at normal depths - less than 200') as long as it's in good condition, although at that depth I would be more inclined to hang the pump on galvanized pipe to reduce the amount of twisting caused from the motors torque at startup.
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Old 08-31-2007, 11:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

He doesn't exactly have a machine "designed" to pull the PVC and certainly not galvanized pipe. Poly can fairly easily be pulled by hand (except in areas where the static level is "deeper"). The more hands the better. There are clamps available to stop at any point. Torque arresters are available. Wire guides (clamp type) should be used on any type of pipe. There is no reason to be afraid of poly pipe. On settings over 400ft you can jump up to the 200PSI pipe.
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Old 09-01-2007, 01:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

What's so hard about pulling galvanized pipe with a boom truck? As long as it goes 21 feet vertical and has a cable it's not hard at all... much easier than dealing with 300 feet of poly that's a slippery / heavy mess by hand.

If you have a ridgid pipe vise holding the sections becomes much easier.

Also a lifting device can be made really easily with some steel stock welded to make a 90 degree with a slot cut for the pipe on the bottom and a lifting hole on top... no need to use straps etc.

I don't agree that wire guides are necessary, as long as good tape is used (like Scotch Super 44) and is applied directly to the dry pipe (wipe off debris / scale with a wire brush and rag) for a couple of turns before taping the wire to the drop pipe. I've pulled thousands of feet done this way and never seen any problems except where someone either used cheap vinyl tape or didn't wipe off the pipe during installation.

I do agree that torque arresters are a good thing to have at the deeper depths no matter what type of drop is used.
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Old 09-01-2007, 09:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

Also a trick is when applying electrical tape, do not stretch the last three wraps and definitely do not pull it to break it off when you reach the end, cut with a knife or scissors. Stretching the top layers causes the tape to unravel over time.

I, too, use nothing but electrical tape and poly pipe with stainless and brass fittings of course, and torque arresters where necessary, everything applied with utmost care.

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Old 09-03-2007, 01:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

still procrastinating on this one. HE has to re grade the pad getting to the well head. There's no way I'm risking my rig on that half arsed road. I'm amazed they even got the drill rig in there.

And I know exactly who to thank for no support cable. And he's also the one that's going to do ALL the heavy "MANUAL" lifting and grunt/dirty work. IT appears to be threaded PVC pipe.

If it was my well (ITS NOT) I would have went with good American galv pipe. As soon as he repairs the road down to it I can get my truck close to it my capacity at the closest setup spot is right around 18,000Lbs. if it requires more pull than that, well he's up a sewage infested tributary and calling a real well company. The reason his pump burned up in the first place is the water table where he's at SUCKS BIGTIME. Even with the hole that damn deep it ran dry and burned it up.

Just wondering what the thoughts are behind NOT reusing the PVC pipe? Why cant it be re-used?
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:53 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

There is no reason that the PVC pipe can't be reused. I'd make sure that all of the couplings are good quality (American made)... a lot of the couplings from hardware stores etc. are cheap steel and will crack if overtightened - although this shouldn't really be an issue with pvc drop pipe.

Your machine with 18k pounds of lift force will be plenty sufficient for pulling this out.

If drawdown is an issue look into installing a Lemco seal to help with the flow. http://www.lemcoseals.com/
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:56 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

One other thing... If you do install a Lemco Seal make sure that you only push down when reinstalling the pump and drop pipe. If you pull it back up the seal will "flip" into the upward position and be useless.
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:10 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

I just had a pump pulled and replaced last week at 240' deep. The pump service guys used a new style PVC pipe, schedule 120 that has the couplings made in to it. No need for galvanized couplings on schedule 80 threaded pipe although on another well of mine at 620' it has the schd 80 with galv couplings!
You shouldn't have ay problem pulling the old one just be careful when you block it to remove sections of pipe! If it slips and drops in the well it's very expensive to get it fished out! Also they had a special tape for the power cable that is made for wells, not sure what the brand was?
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Old 09-03-2007, 10:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

That Lemco thing looks interesting, but keep in mind that the laws of physics dictate it can only draw another 25 feet or so at the very max, and what would the pump do operating under that kind of negative pressure? Also the seal has to be air tight and the casing has to go all the way down. Around here casings typically only go 20 feet or so and it is solid rock all the rest of the way which can be hundreds of feet.

For protection I suggest one of these: http://www.fele.com/Prod_text/item10.htm or something similar, it senses undercurrent (low water) and retries after an amount of time that you decide, also senses overcurrent and a number of other electrical problems, however if the static water level is high you want to install a flow regulator as well, if not it will fool the current sensor and also possibly create upthrust in the pump when first pumping. And possibly also overcurrent.

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Old 09-03-2007, 10:40 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

The Lemco seals are designed to make a draw from outside of the screen area and increase flow from the auqifier.

It's important to size the pump and tank correctly to prevent the well from pumping dry. If a well only puts out 7GPM you can install a pump designed to pump 5GPM and more tanks for capacity with no problems... it's really important to know how much the well can produce when sizing equipment.

One of these products, http://www.franklin-electric.com/Cat...nTierOne.aspx, can also be added as Birken mentioned.
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Re: Pulling a well pump

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dualie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">still procrastinating on this one. HE has to re grade the pad getting to the well head. There's no way I'm risking my rig on that half arsed road. I'm amazed they even got the drill rig in there.

IT appears to be threaded PVC pipe.

Just wondering what the thoughts are behind NOT reusing the PVC pipe? Why cant it be re-used? </div></div> If it was on poly pipe and the static level was between 0 and 100 ft, one, two or three guys could have it out in about ten minutes without any road work. I guess we need to clarify when talking about PVC pipe and fittings. Around here the few that are not on 1" 160 psi poly pipe are on 1" shl 40 PVC with threaded male and female adapters glued on the ends. On occasion, threaded shl 80 PVC with (80)FXF couplings is found. Every joint is a potential leak or point of failure. That is why a "SAFTY" rope is common with PVC pipe but almost never used with poly. When you unscrew the PVC pipe joints you will sometimes hear a "snap, crack or pop" as the joint first breaks free. Sometimes this is just the threads releasing but sometimes very small or larger cracks are created because the fittings are slightly distorted before the threads start to move. These cracks may be almost impossible to see. So I would never put back any PVC fitting that made any S,C or POP. A Franklin Pumptec or even a simple Square D "low pressure cut off switch" would be advised for wells that produce less than roughly 1-1/2 GPM depending on the system.
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