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I have a PVC compression fitting coupling into the copper water inlet line in my house. The compression fitting was used because of the fire concern in the close space involved with a sweat fitting, A year after the compression fitting was installed it started leaking. Wouldn't you know I was traveling when it happened and a flooded room occurred. I found the compression nut was loose and tightening stopped the leak. Now, six months later it is leaking again. I'm traveling again but the house sitter caught it and the leak is small so the water is being caught until I get home. Do these fittings loosen with time or is there something I don't know about using them? I do know that codes do not allow them in a sealed wall but have seen a professional plumber repair a line in a wall with one. Is my only recourse sweating a fitting onto the copper and making sure all burning wood. etc. is extinguished?
2010 Ram 3500 Cummins, AT, 4x4, CC, LB, Line-X, B&W Turn Over Ball, RBW Lil Rocker modified to fit B&W, Milemarker hyd. winch. Elkhorn 9VS slide-in, Nomad 24 ft. fifth/w slide, Century topper, old classic Sooner 18' 4 horse stock trailer. StarFlyte by DynaMax 6.8 V10.
Formerly: 97 F-250 SC LB PSD. 4x4, With lots of Goodies. Twas a good truck. If you don't care where you are, you ain't lost.
Why not use a metal compression fitting instead of the PVC one, or is there not one made that will fit? I am assuming that you are joining two pieces of copper right? I am guessing that the constant warming and cooling cycles are causing the PCV to loosen. Cool water when it is flowing and then warms while static and near the water heater.
Rick:Red 97 F350 CC DRW 4.10/LS E4OD, 28,000GVW trans cooler w/170F thermostat, remote ATF filter, Mobil 1 ATF, Sonnax valve & Tricum springs, Tymar Hi Performance Open Air Intake System W/Donaldson B085011 filter, IH water pump w/integrated coolant filter, BD downpipe & BD 4" cat back exhaust, "SWAMPED", Tymar HX mod, Tymar/Bill's 4 posn. "flip-chip" (this bad boy rocks), Isspro EV gages in 3 hole PITA Pod, "Harpooned" Fuel tanks, Bilstein shocks, Gutted EBPV, Alpine CDA-9825 head unit, Pioneer TS-A1671R 6 1/2" 220W Front, Pioneer TS-A6880R 6"X8" 240W rear, FOKISD member, Beavercreek, Ohio (near Dayton)
I've only seen PVC Compression fittings work over time on electrical systems (and not real well until they went to fiberglass reinforcing like Carlon plastics) and would not believe they are strong enough for a pressure fitting like that. PVC has creep properties and it will not maintain physical integrity over a long time under any but a minimum of strain.
That's just one reason why they don't use PVC rod as reinforcing in concrete.....
2001 7.3 F-350 Dually Lariat CC LWB 4X2 Dark Green 4.10 4R100 5'ver Hauler (32' Montana 2 slides 10,500# - 2,000# tongue weight), 106 gal aux tank, 159K miles, nephews arguing over who will inherit it 'cause I'm gonna' drive it 'til I die. Bone stock.
2001 5.4 Gasser F-250 XLT Crewcab SWB 4X2 3.73 4R100 98K miles headed to 150K stock as the day it was made
Before these: '00 F-250 CC PSD, '97 F-250 CC PSD, '94 Ford F-150, '91 Ford E-250, '81 Ford E-150, '66 Ford F-100 (cars not included)
I had the same scenario at my first house. It was on 1" copper pipe, I had to go to a plumbing supply warehouse and get 1" compression fittings that were made of brass or bronze or something like that. Worked great, never leaked, expensive, $15 each and that was 15 years ago.
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