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Planning to put a metal roof over old shingles. There seems to be only two brands in my area Metal Sales and Omni Series of Everlast Roofing. Price is very close to being the same. Is 29ga the same as .015 . Both say they are 29ga. but in the Everlast booklet they also mention " .015 min. hard high tensile steel with 95,000psi min yield.
Any suggestions about the job would be appreciated.Never did this before
Where are ya located? We just built a new house and used 26ga 5 V crip aluma-gal. Beautiful roof and will outlast asphalt shingles by at least twice as long. We also got a slight reduction in homeowners insurance because of the reduced fire damage threat.
I was told the big advantage of going to a metal roof was to avoid the work and cost of takeing off the old roof. The person that is helping and most familiar with this said we would lay furring strips to old roof and screw to that. What is the problem of going this way. The building is a well insulated garage that is 60X40 and 17 ft. to inside ceiling that is finished.Sofits are vented.
well if their not the architectural type shingle that will prob be alright with the furing strips. For a garage that will be just fine. Metal reflects more sunlight too.
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No offfense, but do yourself a favor and strip the old roof before putting on a metal roof.
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Ditto and dry the roof in with peal and stick that is RATED for high temps under metal. Your roof will never leak.
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Too much junk/toys to mention, ever changing due to too getting bored too quickly. I need a 10 step program!
Want to call? I'm in the book. Want to argue....First explain the square root of negative one....lol
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Planning to put a metal roof over old shingles. There seems to be only two brands in my area Metal Sales and Omni Series of Everlast Roofing. Price is very close to being the same. Is 29ga the same as .015 . Both say they are 29ga. but in the Everlast booklet they also mention " .015 min. hard high tensile steel with 95,000psi min yield.
Any suggestions about the job would be appreciated.Never did this before
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Usually Steel is measured in gauge and aluminum is measured in thousands. For locations near salt water I always design .040 or greater aluminum but inland we use .26 gauge GALVALUME. In gauges the bigger the number the thinner the metal.....29 gauge is very thin. 26 is our minimum.
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Too much junk/toys to mention, ever changing due to too getting bored too quickly. I need a 10 step program!
Want to call? I'm in the book. Want to argue....First explain the square root of negative one....lol
29 gauge metal can range from .0142 to .015 and be classified as the same. I can feel a difference in sheets of 29 gauge metal. The outer ribs will bend a lot easier by hand and will crease easily if your not careful on the thinner sheets.
It is okay to put the metal over the shingles. I would lay a 3/4" insulation of your choice down first. 29 gauge is plenty thick for a house roof, but roof editor is correct in 26 gauge being better. 26 gauge is the standard for most commercial applications. I also just noted his location and 26 gauge is almost always used in florida.
There is also painted gavalnized and painted galvalume. The later is the one you want to use as it is far superior in terms of longevity.
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2010 F250 Lariat CC FX4
07 GT500
Is there only one layer of shingles. The only reason I would think about removing shingles is weight.
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
Timely thread, I'm also considering a do-it-yourself roof on my house. I've done a few sheds, barns and shops with 26 ga. galvalume on trusses.
But on the house I was considering just laying down 3/4 or 1" 4x8 sheets of insulation to help keep the upstairs a bit cooler, and screwing metal down.
All with out stripping the old shingles.
Good, just OK, or should I strip the old shingles, then insulation, and lathing and metal?
I live in Vermont, and my house has cedar shake shingles. When I put the new "steel" roof on next year, should I remove the shingles or just apply the metal over them.
And is there any other preparations (besides Prep. H) I should do before putting on the new roof?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Marc
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2005 F-250 Supercab 4x4 Lariat long bed 6 speed, Vegistroke V3 WVO system, integrated brake controller, upfitter switches, TTM, South Texas Outfitters custom front end replacement, Whelen Liberty LED lightbar, Whelen Dominator LED front bar, hidden front strobes, rear LED's and strobes, Rhino liner, Whelen 200 watt siren, Havis Consolidator console, and other hidden goodies. Pictures are in "Shoebox" album. http://community.webshots.com/user/vtfireftr
Not the voice of experience here on house roofs, but as mentioned above, I've done several metal barn type roofs.
You do need a flat surface for the metal, at a minimum I'd want to remove the shakes as required to fasten down lathing (2x4) so the metal would clear the shakes.
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