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I need a sliding door that is very skinny. I am going to use it as egress (sp) for my snomobiling camp. Can't use a door that opens out because the snow would keep you from opening it. Can't use a door that opens in because it is a A frame and the room that it takes up would prevent a bed from being in the room.
So I am left with a slider. I have the ability to have a 4' wide opening. I have seen ones that need a 4'11", but that is the smallest........... Home Depo have some display models that are the perfect size, but they do not sell them.
Anyone know where I can find a slider that uses a 4' opening?
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
install a heavy duty pocket door.
if there is much snow depth, the side load of the snow will likely push in a glass slider, unless an overhang protects the doorway.
I have seen it happen in the High Sierra.
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NRA member...GUN(s) Owner...Bluegrass performer and festival promoter. Now have an International 9400 Eagle, Cummins N14, 10 speed, 72" mid-rise sleeper. Pulling a 45' Teton 4 axle, triple slide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqI14CfACjU (I'm the old guy singing lead, w/beard)
Good point. There is a overhang, but the snow really piles up there due to the wind.
If I remember what a pocket door is, there is no insulation quality there?
i will do some searching. Thanks for the info.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
Anyone know where I can find a slider that uses a 4' opening?
A slider (and pocket door) only opens not quite half it's total width. So that would be less than 2' wide space to squeeze through. No big problem for you or me, but a heck of an inconvenience in trying to move anything into or out of the house that needs more than 2' opening. That's why you probably won't find a slider that will fit in a 48" rough opening.
Like a slider, a pocket door requires twice as much width in the rough opening as the width of the door opening. So a 28" pocket door would need more than 56" rough opening. You don't see the installed pocket, because it's covered with sheetrock or wallboard or other wall finish, but it's there.
I built my house to be wheelchair-friendly, and I have 36" pocket doors in the master bathroom, one going into the potty/urinal/bidet room and one goint into the room with a separate shower and bathtub. But those puppies required a 74" or so rough opening.
But here's an idea - assuming you have at least 64" width on the inside of the exterior wall at the 7' height.
Of course, if you have about 76" interior width in the wall at the 7' height, then go for a 36" pocket door.
But you can also use that technique to install a normal "patio door" sliding glass door that is designed to be a weatherproof exterior door. Maybe use an 8' jobbie with a 4' opening. And of course locate the slider so when you slide the door, the open part will be next to the old rough opening. The frame for the slider will be a little wider than 8', and that too will probably cost you 3.5" of room length. Finish off the old rough opening with some split logs and everyone except you and I will think you planned it that way.
But if you meant that you have a maximum of only 48" available at the 7' height because of the A-frame design, then I'm afraid you're up stink creek without a paddle. In that case buy a really-heavy-duty steel-frame 36x80 commercial door that opens out. Then to get in, first shovel snow. To get out, put your shoulder to it. Or maybe crawl out a window, then shovel snow.
(I lived two winters in Maine, so I know about shoveling snow.)
Last edited by SmokeyWren; 06-15-2009 at 11:03 PM.
[But if you meant that you have a maximum of only 48" available at the 7' height because of the A-frame design, then I'm afraid you're up stink creek without a paddle. In that case buy a really-heavy-duty steel-frame 36x80 commercial door that opens out. Then to get in, first shovel snow. To get out, put your shoulder to it. Or maybe crawl out a window, then shovel snow. [/quote]
Yep that is the case. Top of the A Frame in the bedroom is just a tad over 4'. I would be able to rough frame in a 4' RO, but nothing larger. After being through 1 gas explosion and 1 fire all before I was 35 I refuse to sleep up stairs without egress (sp).
Going out the window that is currently there is a option, but I like the idea of getting out on the flat roof via a door. There will be no issues of moving stuff in or out as we can do that by the inside stairs. That is why I was hoping for a small slider.
O-well I am thinking I am SOL. As a last ditch I am going to call Anderson and see of they would ever sell a display model or make me one? Hopfully it is not too much if they are willing.............
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
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