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Old 03-28-2009, 10:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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water heater temp?

The water heater in our house keeps the water too warm. I have the thermostat turned all the way down which is 90F. However the water coming out of the faucet is 130F.

I am assuming the t-stat is bad, are they replaceable on the water heater or do I need a new heater itself. It is a newer GE electric model.

Thanks.
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Here is a good place to find out:
http://www.myapstore.com/Omega/Dispa...support/parts/
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Old 03-29-2009, 12:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
the link doesn't work.

I suppose I can take the t-stat off and check for resistance changing with the different heat setting, if it changes at all.
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Old 03-29-2009, 12:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sorry, that link is from this link:

GE Water Heaters, Electric, Gas, Tankless

Parts and acces. is bout 1/2 way down in the middle of the page.
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You know there are two thermostats on an electric water heater.
One for each element. Which one are you working with/on?
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenskeeper79 View Post
... check for resistance changing with the different heat setting ...
You won't see any. They're on-off switches.
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The water heater I have has the temperature adjustment dial which looks to me like a potentiometer. Only 2 wires going to it.

There is no way to check for proper operation?
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Sure there is. When the temperature is above the setpoint, it should be off. When the temperature is below the setpoint, it should be on. Hook it up, raise the temperature and make sure it turns off, then lower the temperature and make sure it switches back on.

For a thorough test, it should be hooked up to a load which draws the same current as a heater element. Corroded contacts will sometimes pass enough current to satisfy an ohmmeter but not switch on a heavy load.

I don't know about Hatfield, PA, but the price of electricity is three or four times the price of gas around here. It might be worthwhile to spend your time & energy replacing it entirely.
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- 9/22/2007, age 21: Still running well when reluctantly sent away for reincarnation, due to body & frame rust.
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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upper thermostat or the lower one?
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165K miles, 12 injectors, EGR cooler, Fuel pump, 8 glow plugs, GPCM, FICM rebuilt FoMoCo engine at 150K under 7/200 warranty.
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Old 03-29-2009, 06:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hum. Wonder if he gave up? Or found the other stat!
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165K miles, 12 injectors, EGR cooler, Fuel pump, 8 glow plugs, GPCM, FICM rebuilt FoMoCo engine at 150K under 7/200 warranty.
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RatherBNtheWoods View Post
upper thermostat or the lower one?
Where is this second t-stat?

The hot water heater I have has only 1 access panel and is on the front of the unit. Removing this gives me access to the temperature control dial which is centered on the unit.

This appears to be the only adjustment on the heater. The heater itself is less than 5 years old as well.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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What model GE water heater do you have? I'll see if I can find out?
Only one access panel huh? Haven't seen that yet, but then again I haven't seen everything.
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:23 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by greenskeeper79 View Post
The heater itself is less than 5 years old as well.

Please don't say that. I just spent $450.00 bucks on a brand new 65 gallon GE unit yesterday.
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:31 AM   #14 (permalink)
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What is the size of the heater? Small units, such as the 30 gal in my mobile home hunting camp are likely single element heaters.
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