Other Technical QuestionsDiscussion of other technical topics. Please see the sticky post at the top of the thread listing for specific rules. The rules for this forum are more restrictive than they have been in the past.
Depending on the size and other factors, many times we had better luck brazing rather than using cast rod. Also depending on size, etc, you have to preheat the casting then cool it REAL slow to avoid cracking.
Use nickel rods and work very slowly, "stitching" the repair and allowing time for the temperature extremes to level out some. If you work too quickly, the cast iron will expand from the heat and will then crack. If possible, it is recommended to preheat what your going to weld in an oven to minimize the above problem.
I've fixed several broken cast iron things over the years and had pretty good luck. One small nit is the nickel rods are over a dollar each.
If so,and if it has to bear any weight welding will not hold unless you can reinforce it very well by plating and bolting.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
Guys - He says it's cast STEEL. There's still a few steel casting foundries left in this country. One I used to work for welded stuff every day. Depending on alloy which on a planter depending on color could be anything from cast mild steel to cast alloy steel I'd start with something like 7018, or maybe a higher tensile low hydrogen rod like 10018. Foundry I worked at used a LOT of 11018. They'd buy it by the pallet. Pre-heat is also required and draw the hardness out of the weld afterwards with a torch to cool slowly. Depending on how thick the part is where You have to weld it You probably want to "VEE" the area to be welded to increase penetration.
If it's really cast IRON that's a totally different animal. With the price of nickle rod now days I think I'd look for a new or used part in a salvage yard.
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Denny
'96 F-250 Reg. Cab 4X4 5-sp POWERSTROKE
298,500 mi & NO Problems, LUK Clutch
Don't know about cast steel, but I've repaired cast iron stuff using a silicon bronze tig rod and it seems to work fine. I heat it up and cool down slow.
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1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 2.5" axle drop bracket, F350 springs up front, and F350 rear axle blocks. 260k miles. RETIRED.
NEW (to me) 2005 F350 FX4 Crewcab shortbed, SRW, Lariat, auto, V10. 5600 lbs front end.
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100% Disabled Viet Nam Veteran (Agent Orange and its' complications)
SOMETIMES I'M ALL CAPS...BECAUSE OF MY DIABETIC EYE DEGENERATION
Pic under name is record holder high mileage vehicle. 3469.6 MPG. Built by UNLV Mechanical Engineering students.
2009 Mitsubusi Outlander SE - (24 MPG in town)
2004 VW Golf TDI - (42 MPG in town)
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'96 F-250, ext. cab, 2 wheel drive, long bed, AFE stage I intake, Baby Swamps, down pipe and 4" exhaust with cat delete, Edge Evolution (soon to be TS 6 position chip). works hard every day on the job hauling pipe and tools and then on the farm at night and weekends. the best never rest!
white metal is a no repair but its nothing like steel or iron
if its a way old part its iron but make sure first what it is and if you can call up the company and find the original alloy they used then any good welding shop can tell you how they would do it
and a v shaped cut will help a lot with future strenth
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, back up camera, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, front mount hitch and off road lights,93 front clip, headache rack, 37" humvee tires, ac power converter,factory buckets from quadcab, power windows and locks,cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, huge front bumper, oba,
in progress western style mirrors, holset turbo, airhorns, and some other goodies
Not trying to hijack this, but does anyone know what the front(and rear for that matter) superduty axle pumpkins (not the tubes) are made from-cast steel or cast iron? I tried welding a bracket to the front one the other day and it didn't take using 7018 rod. Any ideas? [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img]
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