6.4L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.4L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2008 Super-Duty trucks. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.4L Power Stroke engine.
In the power stroke add-on manual it has a nice graph of oil viscosity and temperature ranges, which look like I should have 15W40 or 5W40. Problem is... my dealer just keeps using 10w30. That was fine last January (last oil change), but now that its going to be 80-90 out is this a problem? Not even the night-time lows go below 50 now, which is the highest temp on the 10w30 scale.
I asked today, during my oil and fuel filters change, and was told they rotate depending on the weather, and that it would be 5w or 15w 40 (can't remember exactly). I was in a hurry and didn't check the receipt before leaving, but it was still 10w30 listed.
As for the reason I keep going to the dealer... they have been doing a special, and it cost a whopping $9 for oil and a filter change. Comes out to like $94 bucks, with a random "misc" of minus-$85 discount, roughly.
Worst case, I just go buy the right stuff, drain and refill. Still cheaper since that would mean I got the oil filter for $9.
And while I'm at it.... after a good once over after the service today, I noticed a sensor on the top of the vertical EGR cooler looks like its been backed out a few threads. I'm assuming this isn't normally like this. Never noticed it before.
Its about one full turn out, and the washers are loose in the middle. A little bit of black wetness was coming out from loose threads too. You'd actually have to do this on purpose. The way the plug (that goes to the harness) is on the back of the sensor, there's no way you could get the sensor to un-thread that far without un-plugging the connector first. It can't make even a half of a revolution with the plug attatched. What the hell do they do at these dealerships?? I think I'm done with the $9 oil changes.
In Delaware, you could run 15w40 year 'round. But if you want to run 10w30 in the dead of winter, then change to 10w30 around Thanksgiving, then change back to 15w40 around Easter.
When the 10w30 is in there, don't tow anything heavier than a rowboat in ambient temps over 50º F. And don't even crank the engine in temps over 90º F.
You're gambeling a $90 oil change against a $15,000 engine. Doesn't sound like very good odds.
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In Delaware, you could run 15w40 year 'round. But if you want to run 10w30 in the dead of winter, then change to 10w30 around Thanksgiving, then change back to 15w40 around Easter.
When the 10w30 is in there, don't tow anything heavier than a rowboat in ambient temps over 50º F. And don't even crank the engine in temps over 90º F.
You're gambeling a $90 oil change against a $15,000 engine. Doesn't sound like very good odds.
Thanks for the reply.
Would it be ok to leave the new filter in place and drain/refill the oil? I remember reading that if you crack the seal on the cap to the oil filter, it lets most of it drain back into the pan (trick to allow for less-mess).
For just the cost of oil, I'm not even going to go back to them. I'll just get the right stuff and do it myself.... from now-on. I guess now I just have to figure out which brand of oil I want to use, (cj-4 of course).
Would it be ok to leave the new filter in place and drain/refill the oil?
I don't know how the new engines work as far as draining the oil filter, but if you can do it there's no reason not to reuse the almost-new oil filter.
Motor oil has increased in price a lot recently. I was paying less than $7 per gallon at Sam's Club just a little while ago, and now they cost over $10 per gallon for Rotella T 15w40. And their "case" size went from 6 gallons down to 3 gallons. You need almost 4 gallons to do an oil change.
Sometimes the paperwork is wrong. Go and talk to the service manager. Have them show you the containers it comes in.
SmokeyWren is exagerating a little. It will be fine in most cases. I just wouldn't do any heavy towing with it. If there is a problem, make the dealer pay for it since he put in the wrong oil! Use this as ammunition to get them to put the right stuff in.
Motor oil has increased in price a lot recently. I was paying less than $7 per gallon at Sam's Club just a little while ago, and now they cost over $10 per gallon for Rotella T 15w40. And their "case" size went from 6 gallons down to 3 gallons. You need almost 4 gallons to do an oil change.
Just a heads up... Motorcraft 15w40 at Walmart in a 5 qt bottle was around $10. Seemed like a pretty good deal.
Thanks for the info on oil prices and the egr sensor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlchv70
Have them tighten up the EGR sensor.
I assume this is just a standard threaded sensor right? No trick to it and the same as any other nut, bolt, or sensor?
I put a wrench on it (after disconnecting the wiring) and it seems to only go in another quarter turn... not making it all the way in, before it gets tight. Doesn't feel right though... like crossthread-tight, if that makes any sense. Also, it can't back out more than a quarter turn from where it was originally resting, before it gets that same feel. I was very gentle and paranoid about damaging the threads.
Thanks. Makes me feel less paranoid since that might just be how they were assembled.
Picked up some Rotella T 15w40 at walmart. Just going to drain the filter (by slightly opening the cap) and do a simple drain/refill. Not much cost-wise since the original change was $9. Live and learn, I guess.
And while I'm at it.... after a good once over after the service today, I noticed a sensor on the top of the vertical EGR cooler looks like its been backed out a few threads. I'm assuming this isn't normally like this. Never noticed it before.
Its about one full turn out, and the washers are loose in the middle. A little bit of black wetness was coming out from loose threads too. You'd actually have to do this on purpose. The way the plug (that goes to the harness) is on the back of the sensor, there's no way you could get the sensor to un-thread that far without un-plugging the connector first. It can't make even a half of a revolution with the plug attatched. What the hell do they do at these dealerships?? I think I'm done with the $9 oil changes.
Zero One, you'll have no problem dumping that oil and leaving in the new filter, nothing wrong with that at all. As to the sensor, mine looks like it's snug and definitely not like the one you've shown.
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2008 Job 2 F-350 4x4 Crew Cab SWB dually
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Funny I just had my oil changed at the Ford dealer and I debated with them what I read in the manual about the 15/40 and they said they run 10/30 all year round, so I called another Ford dealer close by and talked to the deisel tec and he said the same thing even after I told him I was going to be traveling with a 5th wheel. The tec said they have alot of 6.4's that tow they service with 10/30 and have never had a issue. Even went so far to say thats the work they get from Ford.
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Zero One, you'll have no problem dumping that oil and leaving in the new filter, nothing wrong with that at all. As to the sensor, mine looks like it's snug and definitely not like the one you've shown.
Thanks for checking your sensor and writing back. It may be a trend on some trucks. On another forum I had posted the same thing and a couple of guys also had sensors that weren't all the way in. I'm wondering if they screw it in as far as it will go, then back it out to where the harness clips are showing properly, for easier removal of the wiring?? Doesn't make much sense, I know, but I can't imagine any other reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowstring
Funny I just had my oil changed at the Ford dealer and I debated with them what I read in the manual about the 15/40 and they said they run 10/30 all year round, so I called another Ford dealer close by and talked to the deisel tec and he said the same thing even after I told him I was going to be traveling with a 5th wheel. The tec said they have alot of 6.4's that tow they service with 10/30 and have never had a issue. Even went so far to say thats the work they get from Ford.
Thats interesting. As far as never having an issue though... would you even know so soon, besides having an oil analysis done, as it only be increased wear at this point? Maybe they're finding that 10w30 makes less ticking sounds after an oil change so they're trying to shut everyone up!? I don't know... just stirring the pot. I picked up some Rotella-T 15w40 the other day and will put that in, in the next day or so.
Use this as ammunition to get them to put the right stuff in.
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