6.4L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.4L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2008-Up Super Duty trucks. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.4L Power Stroke engine.
I did my first oil change on my truck today. The truck has 6,554 miles on it. I wanted to do the change earlier, but the weather got real cold so it just had to wait.
Everything went well. I think I actually like the oil filter being on top of the motor. I can't figure out why the filter costs so much more when there is so much less of it. I have seen a lot of info stressing the use of Motorcraft filters due to aftermarket ones not fitting correctly. I used a Fram and it fit perfect, no troubles at all. So if Motorcraft is sold out, try a Fram.
One thing that I found odd. My oil smelled real strong. A lot like differential fluid. Has anyone else noticed this? I am sending a sample to Blackstone for testing to make sure that my motor is good and the oil does not show any weird particles, particularly fuel contamination. I ended up using 2 5qt bottles of Motorcraft 15w40 and 1 4qt bottle of Valvoline Blue. I had planned on using Synthetic Rotella, but what I had was the older stuff not suited to newer diesels, so I used what I had.
you will want to make sure that filter matched up exactly! Did you reuse the orginal factory cap for the filter? If not then do not run that motor. You do not want to risk the filter not seating correctly and allowing oil to flow.
Sounds like you have fuel in your oil.
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08F250 CC 6.4 PSD
Banks 6 gun/ram air
40' Stoneridge 5th wheel, coming in at 14K.
The Fram filter came with a new O ring and the filter which clips into the top of the cap, just like the original did. I had no problems getting it back together.
I'll post up what the lab test shows. I specifically asked them to check for fuel in the oil, even though they do it anyway. The oil did not appear to be thin, it just smelled different than my 7.3 ever has.
you stated you used the oil you had. Are you certain the new oil is the CJ spec and not CI for the older 6.0 engine?
Also send samples of removed oil to Blackstone. Expect high iron and 4-5% fuel in the oil. Ford doesn't seem to care about the fuel in the oil. I chnage mine exactly as Ford requires and the results don't very much.
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New Truck
2008 F450 CC Lariat White/Gold, JAD Solutions Lights, 62 Gal Titan, B&W Hitch, Gold Remote Start, TruckTrunk box, Viair 550+2x2.5gal receiver, 2010 NAV and Sync
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2008 Carrilite XTRM5
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Traded In Nov 07:
2003 F250 CC LB XLT 4x2 PowerStroke, Captains Chairs, White/Parchment, Torqshift, Heated Mirrors, Trailer hitch,
Delivered 11/27/2002
towing a 2005 Pilgrim 306RL-SS w/Hensly Arrow
I think if I didn't smell fuel in my oil I would call Ford. Did you check the oil level before you changed it? Mine is about a quart over since I changed it.
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New truck: 2009 F-250 4x4 6.4 Torxshift Crew Cab Short Bed Lariat Black w/ Black leather every option
F & A.M. Lodge 266
GeorgeC
"I will own a fleet of Dodges first."
I did not check the specs on the oil. I just read on the Sythetic Rotella I had that it was not for 2007 newer engines. The oil I used I had just bought and it was Motorcraft Diesel 15w40, and it said it was for ULSD engines.
I ended up using 2 5qt bottles of Motorcraft 15w40 and 1 4qt bottle of Valvoline Blue. I had planned on using Synthetic Rotella, but what I had was the older stuff not suited to newer diesels, so I used what I had.
I don’t know that I would be using two different blinds of oil at the same time
I would probably remove the oil and put he correct stuff in as soon as possible. The newer engine isn't supposed to work well with the same oils the older engines used.
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Shaun
'08 F250 6.4L Lariat 4x4 CC/SRW fully loaded, special ordered
6" Fabtech 2.25 dual shock lift w/18" AR wheels, 35" Toyo AT
Avic-Z2 (Z3 Mod) Nav/Stereo w/iPod, Bluetooth, XM NavTraffic
(2) Rear headrest mnt DVD entertainment systems
Line-X bedliner
Banks CAI, Dual Exhaust, 6-Gun, Speed Brake & iQ (test vehicle)
Bushwacker Fender Flares (color matched)
Ravelco Anti Theft Device
Quote:
Originally Posted by George Bush
Wait, what did you just say? You're predicting $4 a gallon gasoline?. . . That's interesting. I hadn't heard that.
I still had the containers and they are rated CJ 4. The Motorcraft bottles stated it very clearly on the front, the Valvoline I had to read the back and look for the little seal.
Your oil smelled strong because of fuel in it. Mine was the same. I just got a Blackstone report back and they said I was at 4% with 3500miles on the sample. Not good it seems but I do idle sometimes for a while while on the job and very cold up here in NH and I idle it for 20 minutes to warm it up.
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2011 F350 Lariat DK.Blue/Silver,Black Leather Crew Cab,Short Box SRW. Supplemental Heater,3.55 ELD, Remote Starter. Used for hauling 16ft x 8.5ft. Work Trailer , 8ft. Fisher Plow, Lance 820 truck camper for those days I can get away.
I can't imagine what my fuel % will be then. I had 6600 miles on mine. How can Ford even suggest a 10K mile change interval.
I was going to use synthetic in this truck, but if my oil gets contamiinated that fast I think I wll stick with the dino stuff and change it more often.
you will want to make sure that filter matched up exactly! Did you reuse the orginal factory cap for the filter? If not then do not run that motor. You do not want to risk the filter not seating correctly and allowing oil to flow.
Sounds like you have fuel in your oil.
I didn't realize it was a fitment issue, I had a non- Motorcraft filter "crush" on one of my 6.0's
I can't imagine what my fuel % will be then. I had 6600 miles on mine. How can Ford even suggest a 10K mile change interval.
I was going to use synthetic in this truck, but if my oil gets contamiinated that fast I think I wll stick with the dino stuff and change it more often.
I do 5,000 mile changes to keep fuel dilution in check (also do analysis to verify). I use synthetic on the ideas that it will maintain it's properties better with the fuel dilution and also to help protect against coking in the turbos. I think a couple hundred dollars a year in better maintenance is a minimal cost to help protect a $15k engine.
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