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6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.4L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2008 Super-Duty trucks. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.4L Power Stroke engine.

       
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Old 06-18-2008, 06:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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6.4 33,000 miles on svo need help with yours?

I just hit 33000 miles on my 6.4 2008 f250 running svo since the day i bought it. Thing still purrs like a kitten. I think what alot of people on here misunderstand is how well a diesel really burns oil. Here's a giant tip the engine will run as long as it get's fuel period! If it's running rough or not starting or stalling or lack of power it's all fuel. So a mega change over for this truck to make it run wvo. First pull out and unplug the junk HFCM (horizontal fuel conditioning module) it's a piece of crap! the fuel pump that is stock is no stronger than my mom's living room fountain pump. Go to schucks by yourself a carter 7.3 powerstroke pump. Cut the wires from the power plug of the old pump. Use water proof connectors to solder on wire and ring clips for the new pump. Hook the pump up correctly. Route the return straight back to the tank. (note my top of engine fuel pressure regulator went out after about 2 months of running wvo so get a jegs inline 2-3psi regulator and clamp it into the return. Make sure you get rid of those stupid hydraulic clip on lines they are expensive junk. My final product uses all stainless under the sink water lines they look neat and last well this whole time so far with no complications. Remember who cares if it leaks and you have to tighten it up it's free fuel. You will save so much money over the term of 3 years that you can afford to replace just about anything on the vehicle including the motor and still be ahead. People don't see that. Anyways go on ebay get yourself a nice 20 plate heat exchanger and route the pump output into the heat exchanger. (tip unbolt the bracket from the hfcm and clamp the heat exchanger to it and bolt it back into place. (that way no one can even see your mod . Next You will need to get glychol down to the heat exchanger. There is a hose that comes off the top of the inlet port module. Unplug it off the bottom port of the resevoir and use a barb to connect it to the glychol line you got running down to the heat exchanger. Plug the return back onto the resevoir. Now take out the POS top of the engine fuel filter tear off all the outside filter media with a pair of pliers you'll notice there is another filter inside (you have to have the filter for the truck to route fuel to the High pressure pump.) so make sure you get all that fuzz off the filter making sure not to damage the plastic or the inside element. Now replace it backinto the housing. Notice on ebay or a napa they sell an external oil filter element. Get this it's not expensive mount it next to the heat exchanger. Now route the outlet of the fuel coming from the heat exchanger through the filter and then into the input fuel line to the engine. Use a ph43 or ph8a spin on and carry a spare. That's it. The truck will start on pure veg no additives, and get about 350 to 375 a tank. If you need detailed help let message me.

DON"T FORGET TO ZIP TIE THE CRAP OUT OF EVERYTHING SO IT DOESN"T COME IN CONTACT WITH THE 4 WHEEL DRIVE SHAFT!! I'll upload pics soon.
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Old 06-18-2008, 08:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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My hat is off to you. You are a brave man. I would fear something would go wrong and Ford would not honor the warranty. Apparently you are comfortable running the risk.
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Truck Build Date: 03/05 Kentucky
Engine Build Date: 02/28/05 Indianopolis
Purchase Date: 8/05 Sold date: 01/31/07
MPG: 16.08 2007 ytd average; 29k miles
2005 F 250 PSD Crew Cab Long Bed XL Auto
Completely Stock Truck: No Modifications
9 days in shop so far!
Symptoms & repairs to date:
1) Dealer diagnosed and replaced rear main engine crankshaft seal; oil leaking at transmission bell housing and by starter.
2) Dealer diagnosed squeaky sound as back pressure on EGR and turbo vanes and said it was normal.
3) Dealer diagnosed bad brake switches on master hydraulic cylinder and transducer in "TBC" Fault. Truck out of service seven days. Mechanic said TBC faults common; reported new transducer and switch design used for repair. Failed when I was NOT towing.
4) Muffler leaking black soot/condensate at head of muffler. Dealer says Ford Hotline says that leaks at the back and front of the muffler for soot and condensate are considered normal.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nice!! Great upgrade tips, this is great info!!
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Old 06-19-2008, 07:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Smells fishy to me. Only 3 posts...

I don't recommend that you tear off the element from the secondary fuel filter. HP common rail is very sensitive to debris. You want as much filtration as possible.
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rlchv70 View Post
Smells fishy to me. Only 3 posts...

I don't recommend that you tear off the element from the secondary fuel filter. HP common rail is very sensitive to debris. You want as much filtration as possible.
Sounds like he's been too busy working on the truck to post here. A brave man indeed to make these mods to an expensive new diesel.
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Looking forward to the pics.

Sounds interesting.
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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filteration

I won't talk you down on filtration I believe in great filtration. However flow is important fram ph8a is 10micron and I left the inner filter on the top of the engine filter.

I ran into a problem today though the truck did an aggressive regen smoked like a chimney because it was dumping the oil in the exhaust. Now were is my trusty reprogrammer lol

If you want something to work your way sometimes you need a little elbow greese.

BTW what good is a warranty if you can't afford to put fuel in it at 6.00 a gal here in alaska? 6 times about 25 to the cap. 150 bucks a fill every 5 days a fill up times 30 days a month times 12 months that's 10,800 dollars ~ a year I can buy a new engine in one year with that savings what do I care.

I'll let you guys know on the reprogram of the regen or a manipulation of the pressure sensor between the particle filter and the upper exhaust. I am determined to get 500k miles out of this on veg oil. When diesel hits 8 dollars a gallon by next summer we'll see who is out still driving on fossil fuel. I'll be rolling along with my hydroxy boost and veg oil. Btw anyone else put hydroxy boost on there trucks yet? I went from 12-16mpg to about 22-25mpg
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