6.4L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.4L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2008-Up Super Duty trucks. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.4L Power Stroke engine.
Looking to change from the factory Motorcraft oil to Amsoil 100% synthetic. Is there anything I need to do first? I am going to run a flush through first but after that, anything else? What are your thoughts about Amsoil? Thanks
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2009 F250 Black FX4 CC SWB
4.5" Icon Lift
20x10 Chrome Fuel Offroad Hostage
35x12.50x20 Toyo Open Country M/T
H&S Mini Maxx
MBRP 4" turbo back stainless exhaust
Banks Ram Air
Ford Coastal Sync LP-1 Lockpick
Amsoil is a fine Product and will sufficiently protect your motor, but dont be oversold on its virtues. It is no miracle product and you wont see any advantages over Motorcraft,Mobil 1 or any other mineral or syn oil. You will just become poor faster.My thoughts toward a engine flush on a modern diesel are dont do it.Where a gas engine can benefit from this,I think you are risking damage in the myriad passages of the engine that use oil as a hydraulic fluid.when you drain it,let it sit at the best angle to get it all then hit with a vacuum to be anal about that last little bit.
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03 E350 7.3 psd 15 pass, stock Hi-top with tall doors,245000 mi
00 f250 7.3 psd 2rwd supercab stock,reese electric brake controller,Goodrich rear airbags, 275000 completely reliable miles,
Still starts runs and drives as new
I wouldn't bother. What do you hope to gain by it? Unless you live where it's really, really cold, there's no particular advantage to synthetic oil. And Amsoil is just another pyramid scheme, like Amway. It's no better than any other name brand oil despite what the people who sell it say. And if you do change to synthetic, there's no reason to do a flush.
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2008 Ford F250 6.4l PSD Lariat Super Cab, Long Bed
2006 Jayco Jay Flight 27.5 RLS Fifth Wheel
I have been running amsoil since my first oil change at 8,000kms. I did it because it was supposedly a high quality oil. I have no idea if it is any better than any other oil but it has worked fine for me. It is a little on the expensive side but I looked past that I guess.
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2008 F350 JOB 1
H&S MINI MAXX HD300 W/S1M
SINISTER EGR/COOLER DELETE
AIR LIFT 5000LB AIR BAGS W/ONBOARD COMPRESSOR
DIESELSITE COOLANT FILTER
2.5" LEVELING KIT
KMC XD HOSS WHEELS W/35X12.5R20 NITTO TRAIL GRAPPPLERS
6000K BEAMERS HID HEAD & FOGLIGHTS
ROTELLA EC-1 RATED COOLANT
5" DP BACK FLO-PRO EXHAUST
FLO PRO IC PIPE & INTAKE ELBOW
CCV MOD
I've been considering running synthetic oil in my 6.4..after much thought I don't see a big benefit to higher priced oil.
1) I am changing my oil every 5k miles
2) with re-gens and filter cleanings..I want to removed the diluted oil sooner rather than later and I don't think or know if synthetic oil holds up better when fuel is added...Anyone know???
Now if you have deleted the DPF and EGR..then thats another story. I'm bone stock
Ditto Senix's...run MC Dino, use MC filter, change it @5K. Buy some DuraFlap mudflaps or Weathertech floor liners with the money you save. Those really do something for ya!
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Mose
2008 F-350 Lariat 4x4 LWB Crew Cab, 6.4, Auto Trans, Job 2
NRA Life Member
Oath Keeper "Not on my watch!"
I am in the same boat as the guys above...I am on the severe duty maintenance schedule, so I am changing oil every 5K and I am not willing to shell out the dough for an expensive syn that's only going to be in there a few months. I strictly use Motorcraft Oil, Air and Fuel Filters, but find myself buying the dino oil thats on sale at my local Napa. This time it was Rotella T...it was $11.99 a gallon. I ended up using the $$$ I saved on beer and steaks and it turned out to be a good day!
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Silver Metallic 2008 F-350 Lariat, Crew Cab, Long Bed, PSD, 4x4, Auto, MoonRoof, Medium Stone Leather, Heated Captains Chairs, Tow Command, Upfitters, Memory Group, Audiophile, Camper, Tow and Off-Road Package...Banks Monster Exhaust, 3.5" Icon Leveling Kit, 35x11.5 Toyo AT's...
I bit into the Amsoil hype one time but never bought into it. When a company has to keep hiding heir prices behind a click here to see pricing information etc... instead of posting the prices up front, there is something to be said about snake oil.
Most of the time it is a phish to gather your personal info as to who is visiting the site.
At $150 for 15 quarts of oil plus shipping that i would hate to even ask about, I just cannot see why someone would buy into that hype. I just decided to change mine over to Rotella T6 as it has 111,000 miles on it and i wanted a thinner oil to start up on. I only paid $19.99 per gallon at Walmart. That is half what just the asking price is for Amsoil. $5 per quart instead of $10.10. But then again pyramid sales technics have to pay backwards so you have to charge enough to pay out the top.
My paying $5 per quart is hard enough to justify as I was only paying $3 for Delvac. If Amsoil is so great why do they tell the seller not to advertise the price/ It would scare everone into not looking past the price to read the hype.
I'm sorry if I have offended anyone by my comments but I've seen one too many condo sales pitchs etc.... No I do not own a condo either.
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2004 F250 Crew Cab King Ranch Lariat FX4 Saddle Leather 6.0 L FUMOTO Valve
AIRAID 4" straight No CAT No MUFF
Nitto Terra Grapplers All Terrain LT285/75R16 10 PR Everything else pretty much stock
NEW Ranchos installed 8/15/2010
WORK IN PROGRESS - R&R EGR COOLER, OIL COOLER, THERMOSTAT, TURBO BOLTS, GASKETS, ORINGS, and adding a COOLANT FILTER WITH NEW COOLANT AND FLUSH
LOL! "those who say it cant be done, shouldn't stand in the way of those who are doing it"
Amsoil is a top line product you can trust. I have used thousands of gallons in hundreds of cars since 1997, I would say I have more experience here than anyone who never purchased a quart but sure will berrate the product.
On the subject of long drain with a 6.4 I would be comfertable doing it only if you take a used oil sample of what is in there now, you need to watch for coolant with these engines.
Potasium and Sodium levels have to be very low in order to keep the oil in for longer than 5000 miles, if you have low levels then your golden!
Take oil samples every 10,000 miles to be safe the oil wil last about 40,000 without needing a change, longer if you have a EGR free truck with a free flow exhaust.
Dont bother with the negative comment's.
It is cheaper to run AMSOIL in the long run just make sure you use thier oil filter and not the OEM one otherwise the oil change interval will be shorter.
AMSOIL has a specific filter made for them by DONALDSON top Manufacture of synthetic filters.
Just realise that without the data from the oil analysis you wont know what is going on at all and 5000 mile oil changes wont save you when you have coolant leaching into your oil through the timing cover on these engines.
Good luck on your truck!
Javier
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1988 F250 dually All New 7.3 IDI, Banks Sidewinder.
C-6 with GearVendors overdrive 3.55 ring gear Synthetic SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Motor Oil,
Evans NPG coolant.
AMSOIL ATF in the transmission, AMSOIL gear oil in the diff.
20MPG city 25/28 hwy
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1988 F250 dually All New 7.3 IDI, Banks Sidewinder.
C-6 with GearVendors overdrive 3.55 ring gear Synthetic SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Motor Oil,
Evans NPG coolant.
AMSOIL ATF in the transmission, AMSOIL gear oil in the diff.
20MPG city 25/28 hwy
Also if you are comparing apples to apples Amsoils OEM recommended oil change interval oil is called their OE oil. Which is recommended for your normal oil changes. That oil runs $5.25 per qt. If you bought in a 2.5 gal jug it runs about $5 per qt. So really it isn't as expensive as you guys think.
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