Changing Fuel Filters - Diesel Forum

ndmtnsledder · 10-22-2009, 11:37 PM

I was going to change my fuel filters this weekend and was wondering is there anything I should know first. Am I right that the one filter is up on top of the engine and the other is down by the water drain on the frame rail? Are any special tools required or anything to watch out for. Also does the system somehow need to be reprimed is there any bleed screws or is it self priming. The owners manual seems to be pretty vague other then the location of the filters. I miss the old days when a owners manual was more like a service manual thanks for any info.

Captcaper · 10-23-2009, 07:15 AM

I just did mine. I followed a way a poster here said he did it and it works out well..

Pulled front of truck up on ramps ( I didn't just left level on garage floor),removed fuel tank cap and let stand for 20 minutes,removed top filter lid, drained bottom filter ,about a inch in gal. pail. let finish dripping for 5 minutes. Remove top filter and installed new one , then did the same on bottom. Cycled key for 30 seconds 6 times started right up. I popped brake line out of plastic clips to move out of the way, also popped plastic pop ribbet that holds wires to frame so they could be tucked back out of the way.

I used a long extension and a socket to remove frame mounted filter..same size socket as the top engine filter. I also unconnected wire harness around frame mounted filter so the socket could fit in and the filter could come out easier.

It still is tricky getting filter out,new one in and not cross threading plastic threads on filter cap..Too much stuff in the way..

senix · 10-23-2009, 10:33 AM

also oil the new o-rings don't put them in dry and don't use fuel. If the truck does not prime per the manual and as Captcaper did above try to press the fuel safety shut off switch and then crank.

A little trick I learned on mine. My switch is sensitive there fore I had to hold it down. Switch is located on passenger side of dash as you open the door.

F450Mikey · 10-23-2009, 06:08 PM

Try to do it with an empty tank! I did mine with a full tank pointing down hill (my driveway slopes) and lost 6 gallons of fuel. I bought the Snap On specialty socket that is 36mm on one side and 32mm on the other with a 3/8" drive in the center ($25). You can use this on the oil filter cap too and use a 3/8" torque wrench with it. The 32mm side works on other Ford vechicles (6.0). It is shallow enough to fit into the space without any hassles or extensions. It took me a good 20-30 minutes to get the old cartridge unthreaded changed and put back in. Next time, I will do it facing up hill on my driveway to make sure all the fuel does not drain out. I don't know about undoing the fuel cap, might make the fuel flow faster/better. Be prepared to wear diesel. Cycle the key several times to prime the filter and it should start right up. Good luck!

ndmtnsledder · 10-24-2009, 01:04 AM

Thanks for info that will help a lot. I had looked at that don't understand why they would route so much stuff in the way of that lower fuel filter. To bad they don't put fuel shutoff valves on both sides of the filters like our ag equipment has.

Captcaper · 10-24-2009, 12:07 PM

The way I did it the fuel stopped running out of the drain after about a qt or so. Don't know why you'd empty 6 gallons..

Singleshot · 10-28-2009, 02:05 PM

Same here, about a quart of fuel is all that came out. I did do my rail one first saveing the simple one last. Used a long extension for the rail mounted one.

JK

F450Mikey · 10-28-2009, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captcaper

The way I did it the fuel stopped running out of the drain after about a qt or so. Don't know why you'd empty 6 gallons..

Facing down hill with a full tank of fuel is the only thing I can think of. I did the top filter first and the cap was on and tight. Would not stop draining and ran down the left radius arm. When all was said and done, the 3 yes 3 drain pans filled a five gallon bucket with some left over.

ackirk84 · 10-28-2009, 11:35 PM

its easy, the rail is a pain, open the fuel pet**** on the water seperator, it will drain about a 1/2 quart, undo the cap replace, return the seperator pet**** back to flow, then go change the filter on top of the motor, again easy, then turn the key not to start but to run, push in on the schrader valve off the fuel cooler box on top to bleed the air (you will hear the fuel pump running for about 30 secs each time) do it 2 or 3 times until just diesel comes out.... then your ready to go, filters changed and shes bled and ready to run.... ford charges 140 dollars around here to do it..... and it takes 10 minutes

Martin #6 · 10-29-2009, 08:31 AM

When I did mine the fuel never stop draining from the frame filter. After 3 gallons of fuel drained I decided to change out the fitler "wet" and got drenched. Next time I'll try putting the truck up on ramps.

Captcaper · 10-29-2009, 01:32 PM

Like I said above. I did mine per my first post from someone here and didn't have a problem. Two times I have done this. 1st time I used the ramps 2nd time no ramps. I left it flat in the garage and crawled under it. I opened the Pet**** as well. Didn't have any problems with fuel on me or the floor.
Check your procedure against what I posted above.

mont91 · 10-29-2009, 06:16 PM

Have done several of these, full tanks the fuel will keep running. About 3/4 seems to be the tipping point. How far does the return line protrude into the tank. Some I take the lower housing off the frame disconnect the rear lines front drive shaft off the diff to swing out of the way. The housing then swung over and dumped out. Have gotten some really nasty slime out of the housing that did not come out of the drain. This only takes about 15 minutes with practice. I get a lot of that.

Captcaper · 11-02-2009, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mont91

Have done several of these, full tanks the fuel will keep running. About 3/4 seems to be the tipping point. How far does the return line protrude into the tank. Some I take the lower housing off the frame disconnect the rear lines front drive shaft off the diff to swing out of the way. The housing then swung over and dumped out. Have gotten some really nasty slime out of the housing that did not come out of the drain. This only takes about 15 minutes with practice. I get a lot of that.

I don't remember how much was in my tank. But I'll try to do it next time with it down low just to be sure.

F450Mikey · 11-04-2009, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martin #6

When I did mine the fuel never stop draining from the frame filter. After 3 gallons of fuel drained I decided to change out the fitler "wet" and got drenched. Next time I'll try putting the truck up on ramps.

I knew I wasn't the only one! When does the fuel stop draining with the water separator valve open? Will all 38 gallons drain out?

inino · 11-04-2009, 04:43 PM

36mm socket, patience, and some clothes you dont mind getting covered in diesel is all you will need. top one is easy, bottom one takes some time. You will drain about a pint of fuel which i just pour back in.