6.4L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.4L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2008 Super-Duty trucks. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.4L Power Stroke engine.
Like the title says, my buddy bought a new 08 F250 SD 6.4, and he waited 8000 hard miles to change the oil. He floored it everywhere he went, and was hard on this new engine, but finally changed it today. I told him for months now that he would eventually ruin something if he didn't change it. Finally he bought some Rotella and changed it out, with my help (he does not even know how to check his own oil). I found lots of metal shavings, in the oil filter, and sludgy metallic oil on the magnetic drain plug. The oil was like syrup, just nasty, and even after the new oil was put in, it turned black after only 20 seconds of running the engine, and I mean BLACK! MY 6.0 with 2000 miles on the oil was about 10 shades lighter, and still looked clean-ish. So any thoughts here, I showed him the oil filter all spread out, and it was just covered with little metallic peaces! How much metal is normal on a new engine's first oil change? Any ideas here? Did he screw his engine over already?
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2003 OXFORD WHITE F250 6.0 POWERSTROKE SUPERCAB SHORT BED, (BUILT 1/03)
Bully dog triple dog downloader and outlook monitor/ gages, 4" mbrp straight piped from turbo, no cat, rhino lining, ARE custom topper, intake, running boards, brush guard with spotlights, BW flip-over hitch, diamond plate aluminum toolbox, HFCM mod, mudflaps, silverstar bulbs, Cal Trend custom fit seat covers (which I highly recommend, bought on Autoanything.com) Just got new American racing ATX series wheels, mounted on wild country XTX 285 70 R17's, it turned out nicely.
Other than 7 injectors, and a new HFCM, no major problems, Original EGR cooler, just replaced EGR valve for the first time. About 61k on it now. Pretty happy with the truck so far.
I ran my first oil change to 5k... I know most people will tell you that you should drop the first oil within 500 miles.... I run all my oil changes to 5k.... I didn't notice anything different about the oil when it drained except a fuel smell to it..... oil anaylisis came back fine.
The oil anaylisis did come back and tell me that 5K is the limit for my Delo 400 that I'm running. My last sample only had 3% lubricity left in it at 5340 miles. So, 5k it is!
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2008, F-250, FX4, Crew Cab, Short Bed, Oxford White w/ black interior, Dual Alternators, Sat. Navigation & Radio, Overhead DVD System, ESOF, Solid Rear Window, 3.73 Limited Slip, Upfitter Switches, Tow Command System w/ Power Scope Mirrors, Power Seats, and the Reverse Aid Sensor - Edge Insight Monitor, 2.5" Donahoe Racing Lift Kit, Fox 2.0" Piggy-Back Shocks, KMC Beadlocks w/ 35" Toyo M/T's, MBRP DPF back exhaust, Recon mirror lights, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Randy Ellis Design Light Bar, Line-X, MotoBar, Gentex Temp/Direction Mirror
you know the factory requirement is 10k....
i changed mine around 8ish also, and have had no problems.
As for the color, when you changed it, did you pull the old filter and drain the oil bowl, than drain the oil, or did you put the plug back in before removing the filter? If you did the second, you dumped 1.5 qts of dirty oil into the pan.
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2008 Ford F-250 CC SB
Dark Pearl Blue(complete repaint under warranty)
6" Stage II Pro Comp Lift
17x9 Pro Comp 7189
37x12.5 Pro Comp Xtreme Mud Terrains
Does anybody think that all the metal in there is a problem? Yes, I did change the filter first and then drained the oil. I know that from my 6.0, very similar setup.
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2003 OXFORD WHITE F250 6.0 POWERSTROKE SUPERCAB SHORT BED, (BUILT 1/03)
Bully dog triple dog downloader and outlook monitor/ gages, 4" mbrp straight piped from turbo, no cat, rhino lining, ARE custom topper, intake, running boards, brush guard with spotlights, BW flip-over hitch, diamond plate aluminum toolbox, HFCM mod, mudflaps, silverstar bulbs, Cal Trend custom fit seat covers (which I highly recommend, bought on Autoanything.com) Just got new American racing ATX series wheels, mounted on wild country XTX 285 70 R17's, it turned out nicely.
Other than 7 injectors, and a new HFCM, no major problems, Original EGR cooler, just replaced EGR valve for the first time. About 61k on it now. Pretty happy with the truck so far.
I probably wouldn't have waited that long. I went about 4.5K on my Dmax, the Powerstrokes I changed before 3K. I got filings in both my 6.0L's and I'm sure the others too but I didn't cut the filters apart but on the 6.0L and 6.4L it's easy to see.
If it comes out that way in the next 8K miles I'd worry, obviously he doesn't care so I wouldn't lose sleep over it either.
I go 5-8k on mine. The manual says 10K. The oil on the new 6.4 will turn black within a few minutes because of the EGR. You can change it every 20 miles and will still look nasty, it doesn't affect the lubrication.
Ya'know cummins actually emailed us and told us not to change the oil early. They said the metal shavings are actually needed for the engine to properly seat the rings and such. However, your friend should know that during breakin that the pinions and such are sensitive to abusive breakins(If it gets hot during breakin it weakens the drive gearsd greatly) and will probably wear out faster because of the idiotic driving. The engine can probably handle the rough break in but its murder on the tranny and diffs.
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"Im voting for Dukakis"
1984 E350 Quadravan, 6.9 IDI, 4x4, E4OD, ext. van : recent acquisition 1984 mitsubishi mighty max 4x4; a work in progress to run on homebrew if all goes well
Well Ill tell him that he probably did some damage, and maybe he will slow down. I haven't ever done an oil change on a brand new engine, so I was just a little shocked by all the little metal pieces.
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2003 OXFORD WHITE F250 6.0 POWERSTROKE SUPERCAB SHORT BED, (BUILT 1/03)
Bully dog triple dog downloader and outlook monitor/ gages, 4" mbrp straight piped from turbo, no cat, rhino lining, ARE custom topper, intake, running boards, brush guard with spotlights, BW flip-over hitch, diamond plate aluminum toolbox, HFCM mod, mudflaps, silverstar bulbs, Cal Trend custom fit seat covers (which I highly recommend, bought on Autoanything.com) Just got new American racing ATX series wheels, mounted on wild country XTX 285 70 R17's, it turned out nicely.
Other than 7 injectors, and a new HFCM, no major problems, Original EGR cooler, just replaced EGR valve for the first time. About 61k on it now. Pretty happy with the truck so far.
If I am not mistaken, the interval for severe duty use is still 5,000 miles. Most people fall under that category by definition. There are reasons for the 10,000 mile interval like the reduced sulfur content of the fuel. But there are other issues that you really need concern yourselves with. We are learning that these engines will make oil even under normal conditions. The regen process greatly increases fuel dilution of the engine oil therefore, depending on several factors your engine oil level may rise significantly and this can fluctuate. I saw quite a few trucks with 6.4L engines over the winter with 3-4 "extra" quarts in the crankcase due to the colder weather. Fuel quality, driving habits and vehicle usage that determine how often your truck regenerates the DPF will also contribute to fuel dilution. The more regenerations that take place, the more likely your oil level will rise and idling is now more detrimental than ever. There is no official statement from Ford on how much is "normal" so don't go looking. Since there are quite a few variables, to narrow it down to X-number of quarts is impossible. Checking your oil regularly is highly recommended.
This is for the Doctor. I have about 5K on my new 2008 6.4 and I think I am going to change the factory oil this week before pulling my 23' trailer on vacation. I am curious about the fuel in the oil, once the engine is broken in will that still be an issue?
Ya'know cummins actually emailed us and told us not to change the oil early. They said the metal shavings are actually needed for the engine to properly seat the rings and such.
I'd like to have a copy of that e-mail.
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2000 F250 Lariat CC SB 4x4 PSD Auto
I have been changing my oil on the 21 different new vehicles (all BLACK) that we have had so far, 3 of which were/are diesels at the ~1000 mile mark. Sometimes I have noticed a very small amount of little metal particles but I have never had issues like burning oil or oil levels increasing. My 6.4 has 24K on it now and I have been changing the oil at 3k intervals since the first one. I think and feel great about having fresh clean oil in my engines. The one thing I will never understand is the idea of sending your oil out to be analyzed. It seem wrong to wait for someone to tell you your oil has begun to break down and it is time to change it . Why wait, why not keep good clean well maintained oil in your engine at all times? Oil changes are a lot cheaper than trips to the mechanic and I like how it keeps me in touch with the “underside” of my: 2008 F350 FX4, 6.4, 2008 Infiniti FX35 & 2008 Mazda 3, 5 door.
. Why wait, why not keep good clean well maintained oil in your engine at all times? Oil changes are a lot cheaper than trips to the mechanic and I like how it keeps me in touch with the “underside” of my: 2008 F350 FX4, 6.4, 2008 Infiniti FX35 & 2008 Mazda 3, 5 door.
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