Fuel filter change - Diesel Forum

dirtyharry · 02-20-2008, 06:10 PM

Just a little note for anyone interested out there. I changed both my fuel filters for the first time today at 19Km. I changed them early due to the conditions I use truck in. Anyways I just thought you might like to know that the part number listed in our owners manual is wrong it is for the 6.0L in the vans. It says ford part 4604 when it should be 4609. The filters on the frame rail are the same but the one at the motor is much bigger on the 6.4L.
Both filters are supposed to be changed together and they come in the same box.
Other than that it was a very easy job, took me about 1/2 an hour and I am no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination.
Rob

CMB430 · 02-21-2008, 12:40 PM

I planned on changing them this weekend, as it will actually be above 30 deg. I will check out the part numbers...make sure the Ford parts guys set me up right. Thanks for the tip.

Rutcutter · 02-21-2008, 12:50 PM

Does it run better? Thanks for the info..

dirtyharry · 02-21-2008, 12:53 PM

I do not notice any difference but the primary was dirty. However with the new systems as I understand it you will not notice any difference. Unlike the old days where dirty filter meant less flow, With new systems I understand that pump just compensates to maintain flow till pump burns out. So it is more a preventative maintenance issue than a performance one. However that is just my understanding maybe someone else could confirm.

dieseldiesel · 02-22-2008, 01:10 AM

A dirty filter still means less flow. As the filter chokes the pump speed remains the same, so you get less flow and less is diverted through the secondary filter pressure regulator. The difference with the 6.4L is the common rail high pressure fuel pump delivers fuel to the injectors rather then relying on only the electric pump as the 6.0l and previous models did.

Captcaper · 02-22-2008, 07:52 AM

Tell more on how you did this..I want to do mine..

The top filter is similar to the oil? under a canister type cover? the one under the cab along the rail? I read it was messy? Is there a certain size wrench or tool?

08PowerStroke08 · 02-22-2008, 10:14 PM

The one in the Frame Rail is a *****....there are brake lines that run right over the top of the filter cap so it makes it difficult to get in there....and there is a yellow value you have to shut off....and i learned the hard way when the dealership gave me the wrong filters and i had the truck all apart...

dirtyharry · 02-23-2008, 12:41 AM

the yellow valve on the HFCM allong the fuel rail is not a shut off. It is the valve you are supposed to be opening monthly in order to drain your fuel water seperator. There is no shutoff to deal with. These housings automatically cut flow when the filter is removed. This saves mess and prevents you from running the truck with no filters.
The filter in the engine compartment is identical to change as the oil filter. There is a picture in your owners manual on which is which and how to change it.
The other one on the frame rail takes a little bit of patience because you can only turn the wrench a little each time due to clearance. If you had a wratcheting wrench it would be simpler.
The filter on top off the engine makes no mess. The one on the frame rail only dripbles less than 2 cups of fuel when you take the cap off and if you use a drip pan 95% will go in the pan.
Just pull out the old filters, replace o rings on caps with included new ones and moisten new o rings with fuel. Insert new filter screw cap back on. Just remember it is only plastic so do not overtourque.
Once you have changed them cycle the ignition through the one position a few times without starting to let the fuel system purge the air before startup.
Later,
Rob

Seapig53 · 02-23-2008, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtyharry

the yellow valve on the HFCM allong the fuel rail is not a shut off. It is the valve you are supposed to be opening monthly in order to drain your fuel water seperator. There is no shutoff to deal with. These housings automatically cut flow when the filter is removed. This saves mess and prevents you from running the truck with no filters.
The filter in the engine compartment is identical to change as the oil filter. There is a picture in your owners manual on which is which and how to change it.
The other one on the frame rail takes a little bit of patience because you can only turn the wrench a little each time due to clearance. If you had a wratcheting wrench it would be simpler.
The filter on top off the engine makes no mess. The one on the frame rail only dripbles less than 2 cups of fuel when you take the cap off and if you use a drip pan 95% will go in the pan.
Just pull out the old filters, replace o rings on caps with included new ones and moisten new o rings with fuel. Insert new filter screw cap back on. Just remember it is only plastic so do not overtourque.
Once you have changed them cycle the ignition through the one position a few times without starting to let the fuel system purge the air before startup.
Later,
Rob

HOLY COW!!!
DirtyHarry, that was just a really great post. Thank you a ton.
A guy on another forum said to pre-load the filter with fuel.
How in the heck would you do that with a HFCM?
No problems with startup?
It sounds like the ticket is using the key for the purge.
Did you figure out the best tool to do this with on the frame rail?
~Mike~

Captcaper · 02-23-2008, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtyharry

the yellow valve on the HFCM allong the fuel rail is not a shut off. It is the valve you are supposed to be opening monthly in order to drain your fuel water seperator. There is no shutoff to deal with. These housings automatically cut flow when the filter is removed. This saves mess and prevents you from running the truck with no filters.
The filter in the engine compartment is identical to change as the oil filter. There is a picture in your owners manual on which is which and how to change it.
The other one on the frame rail takes a little bit of patience because you can only turn the wrench a little each time due to clearance. If you had a wratcheting wrench it would be simpler.
The filter on top off the engine makes no mess. The one on the frame rail only dripbles less than 2 cups of fuel when you take the cap off and if you use a drip pan 95% will go in the pan.
Just pull out the old filters, replace o rings on caps with included new ones and moisten new o rings with fuel. Insert new filter screw cap back on. Just remember it is only plastic so do not overtourque.
Once you have changed them cycle the ignition through the one position a few times without starting to let the fuel system purge the air before startup.
Later,
Rob

Thanks Rob from me too.

I have the socket to do the oil filter . Someone I thought said the socket fits the rail fuel filter as well.. is this correct?

oltrollnc · 02-23-2008, 08:39 AM

I use a ratchet with a LOT of extensions to change my rail filter. Can't remember what size socket but I will check. On another fourm, someone suggested using a "Sidewinder" ratchet. I bought one but have not tried it yet. You can get them from "Sidewinder Products" or Harbor Freight. About $20.00.
I also snap the break lines out of their clips for more room to work.
Still a pain!

dirtyharry · 02-23-2008, 11:19 PM

On my truck the size of socket you need is slightly different betweent the primary and secondary filter. I honestly cant remeber the sizes. I cheated a bit on the secondary and used an adjustable wrench cause I don't own any sockets in the 1 1/2" range.
The socket and extension idea is probably the best way if you have enough extensions. Me I just used a wrench and short turns.
As for prefilling the filter, maybe that is why some people think it is messy. It is a horizontal housing after all!

All the directions are in the diesel suplement to your owners manual. It explains how to purge the air in there as well.
Rob