Questions on cab removal - Diesel Forum

2ksteeda · 08-30-2007, 07:32 PM

I had my truck in for service due to the front crank seal leaking. I picked the truck back up today and noticed the cab to bed alignment is off - shifted about 1/4" to the right. I specifically asked if the cab had been removed and was told no [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif[/img] So instead of putting up with another several days of downtime, and clueless dealer employees, I am just going to loosen the cab mounting bolts and shift it back myself.

Do you have to remove the headlights to access the top side of the front two? Are there any special tools required besides a 15mm socket for the bottom of the bolts? And finally do you have to put a socket or wrench on the top side to hold the body nut for removal? If so do you know what size the nuts are?

6SPDMANUAL · 08-30-2007, 09:36 PM

you should be able to "look" at your cab bolts and tell if they have been undone. if you are that unconfident with your dealer, maybe try another one? i would not try what you are talking of, but we are different. good luck either way.

2ksteeda · 08-30-2007, 09:53 PM

I hear you. I am not really confident in the dealer, at all. And honestly I dont like anyone else turning a wrench on any of my vehicles for reasons like this. To them its just another job on their list, and small details are not paid attention too. I'm sure there are good techs out there, I just have not found one yet. I really wanted to just replace the crank seal myself, but I wanted this documented in the truck's history in case I run into further problems down the road.

I can tell the bolts for the cab have been taken out - the bolt heads have fresh marks on them, and I immediately noticed the cab alignment was different to the bed. I guess I am just a perfectionist that way. It will bother me until its right again.

I have done work on dump trucks and tractor trailers before as well as multiple restoration projects, so I am confident in my mechanical ability. I will have help as well from my father who is a 25+ yr mechanic. Mostly I am just looking for any "gotchas" in this job from those who have done it before.

6SPDMANUAL · 08-30-2007, 10:28 PM

then i would have said "earth to stupid guy", look the cab bolts have been wrenched, what do you mean you did not lift my cab? it really sucks that people don't take any pride in their work or care of someone elses stuff. the butt holes that put my hitch in scrathed my truck, but it was minor and i know if iwas to have said something and there was a negative response or that was there reply, i would have either went to jail or the hospital, so i know i should just leave it alone. but yours goes much further than that. i am glad i have my dealer guy here in fl. even with the way ford pisses me off with the way they are doing things, i just can't see buying another brand when i have an "in" like i do with ford repair.

exoval · 08-30-2007, 10:59 PM

I would insist the dealer correct the problem. If they think they can do a poor repair on your truck and get away with it they will try the same thing on the next fellas truck. And it just might be mine.

caissiel · 08-30-2007, 11:08 PM

I was told that the new 08 service included the removal of the cab to access the engine repair if warranty work was done.

2ksteeda · 08-30-2007, 11:51 PM

I'm not sure if it was the service guy lying, or he just didn't know due to lack of communication with the tech. Either way, my cab is slightly crooked now and I will make sure its put back the right way. If I didn't have the tools, shop, or ability to fix it myself, then you can bet your a** they would be doing it. I really don't feel like dropping my truck off for another 3 days when I *should* be able to get it right in a few hours.

frobozz · 08-31-2007, 08:38 AM

My understanding of the top sides of some/all of those bolts is that they are caged nuts. Which is great when they work, not so great when they stick hard...

Duncan

Sequoia · 08-31-2007, 10:03 AM

Once you notice something like that out of alignment, that is the first place your eye goes everytime. So I get what you are saying. Totally agree that it would be more hassle to go to the dealer than to fix yourself.
For some reason I thought someone had mentioned that these cabs have a foolproof alignment guide that keeps everything straight when tightening. Guess that's not the case.

2ksteeda · 08-31-2007, 10:27 AM

Not sure on the "foolproof" part, lol. Some fool has mine crooked. I imagine there is just enough "slop" in the bolt holes to make it off. I will try and mess with it this weekend and will put some pics if I can. I will try to use a jack to lift it slightly so I can nudge it over. If that does not work, I have a case backhoe and access to a crane if needed. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif[/img]

Deeregreen · 08-31-2007, 10:15 PM

[ If that does not work, I have a case backhoe and access to a crane if needed. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif[/img] [/quote]

I've got an 18lb sledge hammer that comes in handy if you need it. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img] Good luck,

exoval · 09-01-2007, 12:39 AM

There is an old saying "if you want it done right do it yourself".

2ksteeda · 09-02-2007, 07:08 PM

Just got done with the cab, it took about 1.5hrs. It was actually really easy and only required hand tools. I did run into a snag on the first bolt, front Right of the truck. I used my 1/2" IR impact and it just spun the bolt around. I had to hold it from the topside by removing the headlight assembly. It was tricky to get a wrench in there, I actually had to bend one on the vice since you have to slide it into a square tube to get the nut with the open end of the wrench.

As far as moving the cab it required no lifting after the bolts were loose. It slid over pretty easily with all 8 bolts loosened and a pry bar. For anyone that needs the info, the bottom bolt head is a 15mm. The topside of the nut is a 22mm. DO NOT use an impact or you will spin the bolt in the hole and will have to hold it from the top to get it out. If you use an air ratchet you will be ok, or a regular hand tool ratchet.

HamerDown · 09-03-2007, 11:57 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Caissie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was told that the new 08 service included the removal of the cab to access the engine repair if warranty work was done. </div></div>
Gee, how did I know this was a bad design idea and the local Ford Techs could easily damage or not do things right when it came time to ...(lift the Cab from it's Frame)! [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img]
Great thinking there Ford. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif[/img]
And of course it's so back-yard friendly for those of us that feel the need to fix it ourselves.
I'm sure we all have a overhead Crane in our back yards for just such a project [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif[/img]

I would have thought...if the Cab had to be removed, design it to tilt up-&-foward like the old Cabover Big Rigs. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]

guardrail22 · 09-03-2007, 11:58 PM

plan on a new truck every 100,000 miles. Not many other choices.