Survey: maintenance costs vs Ford maintenance plan costs

[Brown Dog]

When I bought my 09 F350 I also bought the 6yr/100K premium maintenance plan and 7yr/100K ESP. My reasoning was that these big diesel trucks are expensive to buy, expensive to service, and expensive to fix if things go wrong - and from all I'd read about the 6.0's and early 6.4's it seemed possible that something very expensive might go wrong.

For me the premium maintenace plan was worth it for two reasons:
1. I'm not set up to easily do the regular maintenane work myself.
2. I wanted to be sure that ALL service on my truck was documented and met requirements to protect my warranty so that if anything went wrong it was going to be hard for Ford to argue that it was not their problem but resulted from some failure or omission on my part.

Across various forums I've seen folks list costs for regular maintenance and the more I read the better I feel about the $2230 I spent on a premium maintenance plan with 5K service interval. But, what I haven't seen is any systematic information on the costs of required maintenance to help owners make decisions about whether the maintenance plans like mine are worth the up front costs and save money over the long run or whether they are not.

Soo...I'm asking all you 6.4 owners to post your costs of required maintenance. Probably should restrict it to costs of dealer-performed maintenance services to make sure the analysis of service costs vs maintenance plan costs is apples to apples.

If you'll post your costs I'll collect and analyze them and summarize them to give folks solid information to use when comparing the costs of a maintenance plan compared to paying for the services piece by piece over the life of the vehicle. If you post the location where your service is performed I may be able to give state/province or at least regional breakdowns of costs.

Please post your dealer-performed maintenance cost for any of the following:

1. Engine oil and oil filter replacement
2. Change engine-mounted fuel filter and chassis-mounted fuel filter.
3. Tire inspection and rotation
4. Inspect and lubricate steering linkage, ball joints, suspension, half shafts, drive shaft and u-joints.
5. Inspect and lubricate 4x4 front axle and u-joints
6. Lubricate 4x4 front hub needle berrings.
7. Multi-point inspection including: check and fill fluid levels of transmission, brakes, power steering, coolant, window washer.
8. Replace wheel bearing grease and grease seals on 4x2 wheel bearings.
9. Change 4x4 transfer case fluid.
10. Flush & refill engine coolant.
11. Change transmission fluid (and filter if equipped.)
12. Change air filter
13. Location: city/state

If the moderators will make this a sticky we can routinely collect data and I can regularly update the summarized information.

[Old_Truck]

I also have the premium maintenance plan, I am on a 5000 mile plan. I just pull up at the dealer and all the maintenance is free.

[timid1]

The dealer is too expensive. Period. They wanted $110 to do an oil change for my 2008 F250 PSD. I can do the EXACT same thing for half the cost. Oh, and I put a Fumoto drain valve on my oil pan so the only tool I need is a 36mm socket wrench.

I keep my truck as far away from the dealership as possible because if it's something I can do *myself* (e.g., oil change, fuel filter change), I'd pay DOUBLE what it cost to do it myself.

[seymour2008f350]

I purchased my 2008 F350 Lariat 4X4 PS 6.4L Crew Cab, Short Box DRW w/4.10:1, limited slip 10.25 rear axle/diff, used with 81K miles in October 2009 in Houston, Texas. Her name is Aretha! She is a beautiful Oxford White pulling machine that commands respect on the road and from me, the driver.

The only warranty left is on the engine until 100K miles. The truck was used for straight hauling in Texas and has been running like a new truck, now approaching 90K miles. I considered the extended Diesel Engine Care for $2200, but it doesn't even include the water pump; it is very limited. My decision at this point is to begin regular maintenance with the finest fluids and filters. I also got very lucky, having returned with the truck from Texas, I took it to a local dealer who noticed a coolant leak. It turned out to be a recall and they replaced the radiator and all fluid for free; which would have been an easy $1000. I also religiously add both Lucas Treatment and Power Stroke Cetane Boost to every tank. I believe that I have a solid diesel engine that if well taken care of will last me between 500K and 1 million miles. The transmission also shifts like brand new.

My first switch will occur in about two weeks. I am changing the oil to Mobil 1 5W40 with K&N HP-7009 Oil Filter. Also changing both front and rear differential fluids to Royal Purple 75W90 (front) and 75W140 (rear). Also changing to the Hastings FF1166 Fuel Element - Set of 2, and an aFe 71-10107 Pro Guard 7 Air Filter.

A side note to the oil change, I did quite a bit of reading and decided NOT to add Engine Flush prior to draining the old oil. There were far too many threads and white papers on the web warning of the clumps of loosened sludge and varnish which could easily clog oil channels and ruining the engine. I may opt to take the oil pan off during the change and wipe the pan and immediate area clean, but that's all. I'll let the Mobil 1 do the cleaning over the next few oil changes.

Total cost for fluids, filters and about 2 hours labor will be about $500.

Second major maintenance will occur no later than the 100K mile mark. At that point I will be draining the transmission, removing the pan, replacing the filter and refilling with Mercon SP only. I refuse to trust or believe the claims of either AMSOIL or Royal Purple when it comes to their transmission fluids. A side note regarding the Royal Purple; it contains Molybdenum, which has a tendency to clump and clog the filter which would cook the transmission. AMSOIL does not have API certification. I will also at the 100K mile mark be draining the brake system and replacing with fresh DOT 3 fluid, the best I can find. Also changing the transfer case fluid (Royal Purple 01320 Max Automatic Transmission Fluid) and power steering fluid (Royal Purple 01326 Max EZ Power Steering Fluid).

Total cost for fluids, filters and about 3-4 hours labor will be about $650.

The only two things that could cost large bucks would be if the injectors were all to fail. They run about $350 each and the job requires the entire cab be lifted off the chassis to access the engine. The other would be a transmission job, which could run from $1000 or so and up, depending how much needs to be done. Considering how much I saved compared to a new F350, even repairs of this magnitude won't make me regret buying a 2 year old vehicle.

What I have not been able to find is the quantity of brake fluid or power steering fluid needed for complete, fresh fill ups. I also need to find a good maintenance manual, so input would be appreciated also.

All other fluid quantities are listed below:

Cooling System, Initial Fill --- 30.7 quarts (use only Ford Gold/Yellow)
6.4L Diesel Engine Oil, with filter --- 15.1 quarts
Automatic Transmission-5 speed 5R110W-Total Fill --- 19.1 quarts
Differential-Rear (4.10:1), w/10.25 RingGear --- 7 pints
Differential-Front --- 6 pints
Transfer Case --- 4.1 pints

Any help defining the brake and steering fluid capacities would be greatly appreciated. Any suggestions as to other fluids would also be welcomed for discussion.

Seymour2008F350

ps-One other thing I plan on doing fairly regularly came as a tip from a full-time RV'r. He recommended jacking the rear just enough to take the weight off the leaf springs, then spraying generous amounts of Lithium Grease between the leaves for smoother action. I wonder if anyone else here has heard of such lubricating?

[rock_doctor]

Originally Posted by seymour2008f350

Cooling System, Initial Fill --- 30.7 quarts (use only Ford Gold/Yellow)

One modification if i may...You can also use Zerex G05 antifreeze which is available from your local auto parts store. It is the same as Ford Gold just in the manufacturers bottle rather then in Fords bottle. You also need to fill with distilled water and not tap water.

[Pol386]

Seymour, forget the lithium try fluid film I am sold on this product. Lubricates and protects any metal areas.

[gman1]

If see you plan on going to a AFE filter. Just a little heads up for you. If your truck is stock you are most likely going to get a CEL. If your not going to tune your truck then stick with a stock filter. They flow more than enough for a stock truck.

[Panther512]

I have the maint package and I am at 30k and its nice not to have to pay for any service. Non, nada, zero. They do it all. I let the dealer think I was going to add the cost to the finance but paid cash for it and they got lite but they had to let me.

[andrewsw]

I read that one operator refused to use RP Max ATF in his tranny yet used RP in many other areas. Is there a particular reason a synthetic cannot be used and that the Ford Mercon SP must be used according to the book or is this really a Ford keeping ford products in house.

2008 F350 Lariat DRW 4x4 EGR/CC/DPF gone Spartan non-race tunes
Bully Dog Propane Inject,
Banks RAI and 5" DPF Delete plus 5" magnaflow running out the back. Riding on 285/70R17 KM2. Biltstien level with a leaf in the back (waiting for OUO traction to keep my spring blocks from twisting all to heck).

[senix]

Well let me see, zip code 21701
Oil change and filters (had some done because of weather/time constrants)=$589.70
Coolant flush= $134.70
Alignment=$69.95

that is all.

[kingranch51]

So does your plan involve all those maintance items listed above every 5k?