Tow Mode & Brake Controller in 2008 F350

[MPD56]

With my trailer, at the start of every camping season, I test my trailer brakes using the manual slide lever a few times, then I pull the break away cable. With the TBC manual slide there is a slight delay and I’m assuming it is caused by both the TBC and the distance the mechanical parts have to move (Brake Adjustment). When I pull the break away cable it is almost instant and again I’m assuming that it is caused by full trailer battery current and voltage as soon as the break away switch contacts close. On my trailer I can hear the brakes applying when I pull the switch and hear the brakes release when I put the pin back in. I consider this normal for my trailer because it has done it from the start and I had the advantage of having my trailer on a hoist with all 4 tires off the ground when the dealer was lowering my axles (raising my trailer) to fit my truck. He had a portable brake controller and showed me that all my brakes were applying on at a certain setting. Sorry I don’t know how to give a short answer.

FYI:
I don’t know if the brake coils on a trailer are rated for continuous duty, so till I’m told differently, I wouldn’t leave the brake coils energized for a long period of time. Also I’m in that habit of doing the tug test when I hitch up my trailer. I hitch up my trailer, lift the landing gear an inch off the ground, with the TBC slide lever I manually apply the brakes and try and move the truck an inch. This tells me that my hitch is locked and my brakes are working. I do this because my bother in-law didn’t once, and trust me! A deer in the head lights has a happier face LOL.

[senix]

Originally Posted by MPD56

With my trailer, at the start of every camping season, I test my trailer brakes using the manual slide lever a few times, then I pull the break away cable. With the TBC manual slide there is a slight delay and I’m assuming it is caused by both the TBC and the distance the mechanical parts have to move (Brake Adjustment). When I pull the break away cable it is almost instant and again I’m assuming that it is caused by full trailer battery current and voltage as soon as the break away switch contacts close. On my trailer I can hear the brakes applying when I pull the switch and hear the brakes release when I put the pin back in. I consider this normal for my trailer because it has done it from the start and I had the advantage of having my trailer on a hoist with all 4 tires off the ground when the dealer was lowering my axles (raising my trailer) to fit my truck. He had a portable brake controller and showed me that all my brakes were applying on at a certain setting. Sorry I don’t know how to give a short answer.

FYI:
I don’t know if the brake coils on a trailer are rated for continuous duty, so till I’m told differently, I wouldn’t leave the brake coils energized for a long period of time. Also I’m in that habit of doing the tug test when I hitch up my trailer. I hitch up my trailer, lift the landing gear an inch off the ground, with the TBC slide lever I manually apply the brakes and try and move the truck an inch. This tells me that my hitch is locked and my brakes are working. I do this because my bother in-law didn’t once, and trust me! A deer in the head lights has a happier face LOL.

That is spot-on!!!

[caliviper]

Do you have somebody driving the truck while you sit in the bed and then pull the pin to test it?

[davydee]

Originally Posted by caliviper

Do you have somebody driving the truck while you sit in the bed and then pull the pin to test it?

Once hooked up and ready to go, I tested ours by pulling the pin and seeing if the trailer would move. The pin is easy to reinstall.

I understand your issue about taking it back to the dealer. Call the dealer and see if they'll reimburse you for any work that needs to be done by the local guy.

Good luck! David

[2x6 Bulldog]

I had the same problem with the Tow/Haul button not working. The wiring is very small that goes down the shifter shaft and into steering coluom. The wire breaks inside the insulation and the whole lever has to be replaced. I think it costs about $80 at the dealer to get it replaced.

[MPD56]

I don’t want to sound like a safety nut “but”! I would never advise you or someone you love, to be in the back of the box when hitched up. This would only be putting them in Harms Way. I will also never hitch or test without using wheel chocks, you will never be able to stop a 12k+ pound trailer by hand if it wants to move on it’s own!!

With my trailer, I can grab a tire and rock my trailer by hand (even with chocks), so I don’t even have to have the trailer hitched up to the truck to test the break away cable circuit, but I believe that my brakes are working and adjusted correctly. In your case, you are trying to verify what part of your brake system is not working? So I would hitch the trailer up without the trailer plugged into the truck, pull the break away cable and get into the truck and put it in gear with my foot on the brake pedal and without giving any throttle, I would slowly let up on the brake pedal. If there is someone around that I can trust with my life and equipment, I would rather be back at the trailer looking at the wheels if possible, and again I can rock my trailer even when it is hitched to the truck, with the brakes on, the trailer might rock by bouncing on the rubber and springs, but the wheels won’t turn (rotate). Hopefully this will verify what is giving you the trouble and if it is still under warranty, you can call the right dealer. Hope this makes sense and please keep us, updated.

[caliviper]

OK, we just got back from our trip.

The brakes on our 2010 Coachmen Brookstone 367RL are TERRIBLE.

At one point, the freeway had a stop light on it. The light turned red and cars started braking. At this point I was going about 60 MPH, and had plenty of room to slow down. However, I realized quickly that I had to press the brake almost as hard as I could (just shy of the ABS on the truck kicking in) to get the truck and the rig to stop in time. That freaked me out and I made sure for the rest of the trip I had a TONNN of room between me and anybody else (much more than would be typical.)

At our final destination, I experimented. I used the manual brake lever on the brake controller (which was set at maximum sensitivity) which kept the truck from moving when in DRIVE mode and idling. However, I could put my foot in the gas and pull the trailer. The tires were not locked. I could feel the trailer trying to hold the truck back, but it could not and the wheels just rolled and it all moved forward.

I then pulled the emergency brake pin and tried again -- same results. So that eliminates the possibility of it being the brake controller.

Some people told me I might need to go in and get the brakes adjusted on the trailer.

Others told me that some rigs are so over built that the brakes on them just WONT lock up no matter what.

Granted, I dont ever want them locking up, but I want to be able to make them do so, then back down the sensitivity just shy of that so that I have maximum braking.

Ugh... what to do?

Another thing -- do they sell hitches where the U shaped part of it is taller than stock? The front of my trailer sits a handful of inches lower in the front than the rear (maybe 6 to 10 inches by the looks of it...I need to actually go measure). The hitch can go up one more bolt (about 1 inch) and the pin another 1/2 inch, but that is not enough. I need the part that the pin connects to to actually rise up higher... the one I had looks like it is squatty and maybe built for a 4X4 that sits taller than my F350?

I dont know if they make taller ones or not for the same brand?

[senix]

try air bags or add a leaf to raise your hitch height. It does sound to me like the brakes are backed off.

[caliviper]

My trucks doesnt squat that much, so I dont want to add air bags or additional leafs. I just need a taller hitch by a few inches.

What does backing off the brakes mean?

[senix]

Originally Posted by caliviper

My trucks doesnt squat that much, so I dont want to add air bags or additional leafs. I just need a taller hitch by a few inches.

What does backing off the brakes mean?

what I mean't is they need to be closer to the brake drums. Since your trailer is new, as part of the prep to sell the trailer they may have pulled the wheels. Don't know this to be fact, but they do need to be adjusted.

[caliviper]

Camping world do this sort of thing? Cost?

[GEARJAMMER]

Originally Posted by caliviper

OK, we just got back from our trip.

The brakes on our 2010 Coachmen Brookstone 367RL are TERRIBLE.

At one point, the freeway had a stop light on it. The light turned red and cars started braking. At this point I was going about 60 MPH, and had plenty of room to slow down. However, I realized quickly that I had to press the brake almost as hard as I could (just shy of the ABS on the truck kicking in) to get the truck and the rig to stop in time. That freaked me out and I made sure for the rest of the trip I had a TONNN of room between me and anybody else (much more than would be typical.)

At our final destination, I experimented. I used the manual brake lever on the brake controller (which was set at maximum sensitivity) which kept the truck from moving when in DRIVE mode and idling. However, I could put my foot in the gas and pull the trailer. The tires were not locked. I could feel the trailer trying to hold the truck back, but it could not and the wheels just rolled and it all moved forward.

I then pulled the emergency brake pin and tried again -- same results. So that eliminates the possibility of it being the brake controller.

Some people told me I might need to go in and get the brakes adjusted on the trailer.

Others told me that some rigs are so over built that the brakes on them just WONT lock up no matter what.

Granted, I don't ever want them locking up, but I want to be able to make them do so, then back down the sensitivity just shy of that so that I have maximum braking.

Ugh... what to do?

Another thing -- do they sell hitches where the U shaped part of it is taller than stock? The front of my trailer sits a handful of inches lower in the front than the rear (maybe 6 to 10 inches by the looks of it...I need to actually go measure). The hitch can go up one more bolt (about 1 inch) and the pin another 1/2 inch, but that is not enough. I need the part that the pin connects to to actually rise up higher... the one I had looks like it is squatty and maybe built for a 4X4 that sits taller than my F350?

I don't know if they make taller ones or not for the same brand?

Electric drum brakes take quite a while before they will work properly. The pads need to be "seated" into the drum. One hundred (100) miles of stop and go driving is not uncommon to "seat" them. After being "seated" they can be adjusted and will work much better.


Shawn

[BlueMuleTrucking]

Pulling the pin out of the box usually drains the battery pretty good from what I noticed. Sometimes down enough where replacement is needed. I've hauled comparable loads in two of my friend's 450s and never had the brakes more then 2.5 and felt fine.

[MPD56]

Caliviper: With the information you provided, it is still hard for me to understand totally what could be the problem with your brakes, not knowing the whole story? First the Coachmen site doesn’t tell me anything that I can see to help you out, (type or make of brake system). And me sitting in a computer chair doesn’t help. If it is a new trailer, the dealer should’ve adjusted the brakes and took you on a road test, before they sent you on your way. If they delivered it to you, I don’t know of any dealer that doesn’t charge for prep work when they get it from the factory. I too, live far away from the dealer so I understand the pain, but if your trailer is still under warranty, I’d call the dealer or the Coachman support line and they might know something that is missing. I have seen this happen on electric over hydraulic trailer brake systems. The Ford TBC was designed and tested for electrical brakes systems that use coils to activate the brakes. A phone call to Coachmen Customer Service would confirm this and or at least I would hope they would know how about informing you how to correct it. (I had a problem with my new trailer and my dealer asked me if I wanted to bring it here and they would pay me, or would you like us to come get it and drop it off).

I’ve troubleshot electric brake systems on a few trailers, not because I’m an expert, only because my darn family knows I have an electrical back ground (dam). So with the information you have given, I’m only assuming!! Since the brakes don’t hold when you pull the “break away” and your battery is good and fully charged, I’m leaning towards the brakes are out of adjustment. But then again you might be low or out of trailer brake fluid. Keep us updated.

As for the hitch, I can’t find out from the Coachmen site that your axles can be adjusted and again my dealer made the adjustment for me.

[OT]

Cal..are you serious what to do? As ALREADY mentioned..maybe your t. brakes aren't making good contact with drums? Basic tests for starters, so go jack up one side..spin the tires..can you hear the pads rubbing against the drum? If you DONT hear at least light rubbing noise..adjust brakes. (assuming all b.parts good) Let's say you do adjust brakes (ask if u dont know how) so....

Before letting down & testing other side...(assuming brakes actuated by magnet) with t. plugged in..eng. running..Get helper to apply foot brake..get a good grip on tire..can you turn it by hand? Apply manual control (try diff settings)..can you turn tire? If your not able to do, get someone qualified to do. Good luck.