Either the bypass valve is stuck, or you have too much restriction in your tranny cooling system. First, I'd do a flow test. If the flow test shows you get at least one quart per 15 seconds, then next I'd replace the bypass valve. You can get one at a reasonable cost from www.tousleyfordparts.com
I can't find it on their webgsite, so call them.
Visual check of lines and cooler show no damage. I have a compressor that I can regulate the output on and can put 10PSI on the cooler lines and cooler if that is suggested. As you stated Mark, if fails flow test on the return line by purging out of the bypass valve. Is it OK to leave the return line connected, then disconnect the "hot" line to the cooler to check flow when fluid is @ operating temp. Wouldn't this prove that if there is correct flow, the cooler is restricted or if there is no flow, the bypass valve is always open? Or once I disconnected the "hot" line, would it be normal for the bypass valve to open? I appreciate the suggestions and help on this and didn't intend to become a nuisance!
5. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler(s). This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the transmission, torque converter and coolers will be pumped out. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission.
Any one have a problem disconnecting this line? I couldn't disconnect this to save my life.
The only nut that would loosen was the one closest to the tranny at the banjo connection.
This line started leaking so I retightened and gave up.
I only changed the pan fluid, which did help drop my temps by 20*.
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Maybe. But it might also mean you have a restriction somewhere in the tranny cooling system.
Note the optional procedure in the procedures to blow out the coolers with low PSI compressed air. If you blow in the hot line and you don't have ATF come out the return line, then you're stopped up somewhere in the tranny cooling system. Maybe a connection, or maybe you really do have a stopped up cooler.
If you get a good flow of ATF out the return line, then your bypass valve is probably busted. That's not a very expensive part to replace.
Maybe. But it might also mean you have a restriction somewhere in the tranny cooling system.
Note the optional procedure in the procedures to blow out the coolers with low PSI compressed air. If you blow in the hot line and you don't have ATF come out the return line, then you're stopped up somewhere in the tranny cooling system. Maybe a connection, or maybe you really do have a stopped up cooler.
If you get a good flow of ATF out the return line, then your bypass valve is probably busted. That's not a very expensive part to replace.
I used 10 lbs PSI compressed air through the cooler and received ATF out of the return line. I then replaced the bypass valve and problem was resolved. I can now disconnect the return line with the ATF at operating temp and nothing comes out of the bypass valve. Thanks for everyone's help!
I had some long tubing left over from what I can not remember ,, but it was long enough to go from the return line that one un hooks, and the other end in the bucket just below the drivers door.
Start the engine and wait... bucket starts to fill and then there is that large air pocket... stop , fill with more transmission fluid and repeat.. there is another air pocket along with a change in color after moving through P, R, D, 2, 1.
Thanks again for the step by steps...
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thanks for the instructions. Did this yesterday afternoon, and had no problems. Used almost 21 qts of Mobil 1, guess the 6.0 cooler may take a bit more fluid. Next up grade will be bypass filters for the cooling system, and the Tranny.
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Noob need rumors confirmed or denied.....Ok i've heard from different sources conflicting advice on changing the tranny fluid....My late model 99 f350 SRW 205K is truely awesome and love it...i've noticed that the tanny will not do anything when i put it in gear after cranking it.... i will let it sit for a couple seconds and it will start to move on it's own and good to go when it does....now with that in mind i have heard that flushing the tranny is bad if it was never done before.....on the other hand i was told to do it to help this issue, that it could be a built tranny and it need to be changed....I have no previous knowledge of the trucks history.....but when it shifts it bangs the gears(sticky residue on the gauge cluster tells me a programmer was once on it).....Thanks a bunch in advance!!
...now with that in mind i have heard that flushing the tranny is bad if it was never done before.....
Baloney! Old wives tale. If you follow Mark's procedures, then you are simply replacing almost all the old ATF with new ATF. There is no logical reason that new ATF could cause a tranny to go bad.
It sounds like your tranny or torque converter has already packed its bags and getting ready to go south. If it goes south right after you change the ATF, it won't be because you changed the ATF.
I would not use a chemical of any sort to flush the tranny. That can cause a world of hurt. Just follow Mark's procedures and you'll be good to go.
changed the tranny oil today, hardest part was coughing up $5.49 a quart. there was no bypass on my 96 and a 3/8's id clear tubing worked great. the 14 year old fluid (cause they pulled the tranny in 97) looked a dark brownish burgundy color. the new fluid looked like pink lemonade coming down the clear tubing.
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