Fuel Filter/seperator drain o-ring replacement...my first write up - Page 12 - Diesel Forum

PRDATR · 05-29-2007, 12:26 PM

Good info so I ordered 10 from Oringsusa and they should be here in a few days.
I had some extra ones from Home Depot when I did this about 3 years ago but could not find them. They were just plain rubber and lasted as long as the originals. They started leaking a couple of weeks ago. I used a Craftsman ratchet tool to do mine the last time and it took about half an hour.
Just in case I am going to pickyp a couple of extra screws from the dealer in case I drop one.

rmd1960 · 07-01-2007, 11:02 AM

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

Shamish · 07-01-2007, 03:41 PM

Folks,

Dumb question: Is the size of the O-Ring a #90 or #202...I see both numbers referenced in the great attachments!

Thanks,

Shamish

jlrsn · 07-01-2007, 05:20 PM

Viton AS568A-202 O-Ring Seals.
Good luck,
Jim

PRDATR · 07-01-2007, 08:04 PM

If you are getting them from O Rings USA they are the -75 202.
I believe the ones I bought a few years ago at Home Depot were trade size 90, so probably both.
The size is 1/2 1/4 x 1/8

sixspeeddroner · 07-29-2007, 08:28 PM

I replaced my O rings with Viton #202's about 5 months ago and they have already started to leak. I checked with the local dealer and he said he is selling a lot more drain kits and doesn't know why, I suggested it might be the age of the equipment or ULSD or both, he wanted over $80.00 for the kit, thanks but no thanks, replaced the rings again and everything is dry as a bone. Has anyone else had such a short life out of a set????

Sabre2th · 07-29-2007, 08:37 PM

Just curious, but do you happen to use any additives containing acetone? Viton doesn't like it..... And to the above posts that refer to these o-rings as being -75's or -90's, that's definately not the size. It's probably the hardness rating (durometer) 75 or 90 durometer are pretty standard for orings. The size required for our drain valves is #202, and on the ones that have the stem seal, it's #013.
Tom

sixspeeddroner · 07-30-2007, 12:35 AM

Only thing I've used since the truck was new is Stanadyne Performance Formula

dieselpwrdude · 08-28-2007, 02:28 PM

Swet deal E o thanks for writing that up.

Rick M · 10-28-2007, 09:13 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MaxRules</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Found my drain valve leaking yesterday. I ordered 10 Vitons from smallparts.com, only $5.60 shipped to me. My biggest concern is what this new diesel fuel is doing to the rest of the system/engine. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind this leak was caused soley by the ULSD. With all the sue happy people in this world, I'm suprised the EPA isn't paying for all these repairs yet. A lawyer should jump all over this. I might slip in a puddle of leaked diesel and spill hot McDonald's coffee on myself.</div></div>

I believe the concept of "Sovereign Immunity" would come into play.

Rick M · 10-28-2007, 10:51 AM

Been thinking on this a lot since I have the smell, a puddle on the slab, and just ordered a kit from the e-bay site that has the three o-rings in it to effect the repair.

However, I find myself wondering about something, how does the o-rings we are replacing cause the fuel to drip from the drain tube? Those o-rings are for the seal between the fuel filter housing and the drain assembly so any leak they have would/should go into the valley. It would seem that when we see fuel dripping from the drain tube that there is a leak in the valve seat/seal itself. A comparison would be a faucet dripping versus the pipe threads between the faucet and pipe leaking. The faucet/pipe joint is what these o-rings are addressing, right?? And that leak should run down the engine not drip out the pipe, right?? Can someone help me with this? What am I missing in the equation??

Jett · 10-29-2007, 06:48 PM

In case you're lost in this sea of posts, I highly recommend the method of using a small piece of plastic tube you can put your torx bit in while after the bolts are loose, it's a lot easier to spin the tube then a wrench or just the bit with your fingers.

Rick M · 11-01-2007, 04:24 PM

Just got through changing my o-rings out. Took about 35-45 minutes, sped along by my neighbor's 1/4" air ratchet. Took my time and replaced the ring around the shaft. While it was out I noticed that the ball area of the fuel end had some of the yellow coating that was on the factory rings adhered to it so cleaned it off to get the ball slick. Wonder if those flakes would have been enough to cause a dribbling leak?

Rick M · 11-02-2007, 01:03 PM

Wanted to put this in an edit, but even though I am logged in the edit option does not appear.

Anyway, I am hoping the rings seat on the drain assembly balls because after a short drive yesterday to get the oil warmed up to change there was evidence of fuel leaking out of the extended tubing I had left on the metal drain tube. Maybe after it sets for awhile all will conform and not leak anymore. This is a real pain mechanism.

06Clone · 11-07-2007, 12:33 PM

Haven't logged in in a year. Can anyone tell me what is the best drop in fuel filter for my 7.3? I was searching for a 1 or 2 micron drop in and found nothing for a 7.3 on Google.

Doug