Re: Fuel Filter/seperator drain o-ring replacement...my first write up
Okay, I found this post because I have the fuel smell and a drip off of the engine. This is my step-dads truck. He had the leak appear last year about this time and it sealed up after a few hours and he hasn't seen it since then. That is what prompted me to start looking for a solution I changed the o-rings out this evening. Has anyone continued to have a drip after the fact, possibly from residual fuel on the valley still dripping down?
My drip is coming off of the dust cover. There is a little dimple on the very center of the dust cover that it seems like it is dripping out from.
I have fuel all over the valley and then this drip. Does this sound like the same issue? Have others had this drip from the same location? I think I read all but one page of this post. I probably skipped the page that says if your drip is off of the dust cover it is a different issue!
My next course of action is to check/change the WIF sensor o-rings.
Re: Fuel Filter/seperator drain o-ring replacement...my first write up
Add another one to the list. Mine started to leak this week when the temperature dropped. Checked everywhere to find the O-rings, ended up ordering them through http://www.smallparts.com.Can't wait to change them.
just got two new sets off ebay for a total of $4 with shipping got to me in less than a week their viton and their suppose to stand up to just about anything
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2000 Ford F250 7.3l diesel of course with 137,086 original miles, new waterpump, AEM intake, ATS Turbo Housing, TS Performance 6 pos chip, guages (exhaust temp, boost, onboard air gauge), 4 inch MBRP exhaust to the turbo, CB Radio always on ch. 14, 60 gal. Aux. Tank/tool box in bed, Rotella Oil 15w40 soon to have HPOX on there, Train Horn hehe, Viair Onboard air (150psi),Pioneer head unit, some kind a drop in bedliner, 32in Nitto tires, and cant forget the pintle hitch
Thanks for writing this up! I'm gonna get it done tomorrow assuming I can find the o-rings!
I wanted to be able to have the instructions with pictures with me when I do this so I made a pdf of the post with pics. o-ring replacement.pdf Hope it's not out of line to post this!
With nice weather yesterday, I finally got around to doing this o-ring fix [fortunately, hadn't needed the truck recently ....]. As noted, the process is straightforward, but the space is so cramped that its a pain in the arse to unscrew the T20 torx screws and remove the valve. I couldn't find a 1/4 drive T20 socket closeby, so I ended up using one of those cheap 90 degree angled T20 key [like a hex key]. I don't have real big hands, but it was tough to fit back in there, especially spread-eagled over th engine and reaching down behind the filter. Ended up dropping the key, and one of T20 screws, down into the valley multiple times [requiring a second trip to the local Advance Auto for one of those flexible recovery grippers]. Ended up taking a couple hours, what with the trips to Advance, so be prepared. I had previously installed a drain line on the purge outlet, so I avoided any more diesel mess. As expected, this fixed the leak!
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2000 F250 4x2 Supercab XLT; Detroit Truetrac ltd slip diff. w/PML aluminum cover; FTVB; BTM; PF pads in the front. DP Tuner stock/60tow/80econ. 203 'stat, Cat ELC coolant, Gauges, Ford AIS, Bilsteins, Michelin LTX M/S, B&W gooseneck in a Line-X sprayed bed; UWS low profile tool box. Towing a 2004 CM Winstar 4 horse trailer loaded with quarterhorses, whenever possible ....
Wife's New Ride: 1999 Mercedes Benz E300 Turbo Diesel Sedan
Wow good reading here.... just turned 103K on the odometer and saw a fuel leak. Glad to see the exact problem explained here. I went to smallparts.com and ordered the following:
Just changed out mine today. I used an adaptor, Spinner, 1/4" male to 3/8" female, that made things alot easier to turn those torx out by hand. Will be tough if you have large hands. FSD38, Adaptor, Spinner, 1/4" male to 3/8" female
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2000 XLT LARIAT CC SB 4x4, front leveling kit, rear add a leaf, hd overload spring pack, 3.5" down pipe, straight pipe, foil delete, K&N fipk w/dry charger, oil guard by-pass oil filter, coolant filter, ccv mod, 203* T stat & housing, brv+,redhead steering gear box, auto meter boost,EGT, rear diff and trans temp gauges, Frybrid wvo kit, 6.0 trans cooler, BTS trans, 4 position chip stock, hi idle, 60 hp and 100hp, ((XM radio))
been a while since ive been here,...glad its helped a bunch of people
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99.5 powerstroke f250 lariot 4x4,...6" lift...17"x10" amp wheels...37"toyo mt's...3.5 dp,..4" straight pipe side exit,..di 4-way chip..50/70/110/140 hp tunes,..t/c lockup mod,..afe stage 2 intake,...ats housing....gauges,...big head actuater,..ccv mod..
87 sami with yota axles...529 gears...spool rear...lunchbox front...3-link and volvo coils....rears up front shackle reversal...4:16:1 t-case gears...34/10.50 ltb's.....diy beadlocks..
Failing that, go to the one stop shop like McMaster-Carr or MSC Industrial Supply Co. Home Page .... these guys have everything from fasteners to tools to just about any gadget you can think of.
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Ford F250 7.3l diesel of course with 137,086 original miles, new waterpump, AEM intake, ATS Turbo Housing, TS Performance 6 pos chip, guages (exhaust temp, boost, onboard air gauge), 4 inch MBRP exhaust to the turbo, CB Radio always on ch. 14, 60 gal. Aux. Tank/tool box in bed, Rotella Oil 15w40 soon to have HPOX on there, Train Horn hehe, Viair Onboard air (150psi),Pioneer head unit, some kind a drop in bedliner, 32in Nitto tires, and cant forget the pintle hitch
), AIS, 
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