I bought my Viton #202 rings on Amazon for $4.85 for a quantity of $25. Shipping is free if you're a Prime member, or if your total order is over the $25 limit (or whatever there offer is at the time...usually during the holidays it's even less like $15 order or something).
What I found I needed was a very small screwdriver, so I bought a thumb-and-forefinger "wheel" type screwdriver that took the small bits (you need a Torx 20, IIRC). I got a three-pack of those wheels from Sears, as they come in a three pack. VERY nifty little screwdriver set. Basically, if you can get your hand in there, the space only needs to be about as big as one of those magnetic/interchangeable screwdriver bits...so I've used them for other things other than automotive.
Hello all, I'm the proud new owner of a 03 7.3 250. I just registered on this site, and glad because I've seen all the great information that is available. Diesels are all new to me and I need to direction if anyone would be so kind to help. I noticed fuel leaking on the ground the other day on the drive way and after looking all over the place found the general area that it is coming from. There is alot of fuel in the valley of the motor. I cleaned it up and drained the water/fuel valve. I let it run for about 15 minutes and never saw fuel leaking again. Then, later on I went to the store and by the time I returned I saw fuel leaking on the driveway again. I've seen other post that it is the o'rings and that the fuel should be leaking from the drain tube and not in the valley of the motor. Could there be another problem other than the o'rings that needs to be replaced?
Thanks,
Stroken03
sounds like the drain assembly o rings, mine is doing the same thing. Hoping these temps (-27c) warm up somewhat so I can change mine soon... there is a good tutorial on changing them here
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'99 F250 PSD CC AUTO, Lariat, 565,000 km's, Raider cap, K&N air filter, spray in liner, stainless grill inserts, and command start for those -40 mornings, no more running out in my briefs to fire her up!
Well, it was the fuel/ water drain seperator valve. Took me avout 30 minutes to do the entire job! Disconnected the batteries and used the thumb driver set with the torx 320 bit and it was a breeze. Be sure to disconnect the battery. The selonoids are close to the area that you will be working in. Good luck to those that need to do the job.
As a very temporary fix, I found some 1/2 x 1/4 x 1/4 rubber grommets. This will get me through tomorrow I hope and will be parking the truck till the Oring store parts get here.
As a side note, I had this problem last winter when I drove to CO from San Diego. I had a leak, then it went away when I got back to San Diego. This year, same problem only much worse. So, cold appears to play a big roll in this...
I couldn't locate the 202's so I went to the Stealership, they wanted $64 for the kit. So I went down the street to the International dealership. They wanted $12 for their kit.
When I got home I pulled the housing and removed the inner section as described in the tutorial to inspect and clean. I then pulled the inner section out of the International kit to see if it might have the correct size o-ring. It was one single piece instead of 3 like the ford part but looked like it was the same dimensions. It was a tight fit but went in. I started the truck up after cycling the fuel pump several times. No leaks.
Buy the International kit Part #1823562C91, pull the inner section out and install in the ford housing. There will be 2 spare screws also in the kit in case you drop one. Install the new 202's. You'll be glad you just saved $52.
I haven't seen where anyone is using the inner section of the drain valve. Even the International parts rep said that the Ford guys buy the kit take the 2 o-rings and screws and throw the rest of the kit away. The Int. kit is almost identical except that it is held on by 2 screws instead of 4, and the drain valve handle is longer.
Hope this helps somebody else.
Thanks for all the great info,
CC
It was the only part they had with the o-rings so I took it. I just thought that it was unusual that the inner section fit into the stock ford housing, so I changed out that section instead of changing the 3rd 0-ring. Also unbeleivable that their part was $12 vs $64.
I just stumbled on this thread after discovering a fuel leak on my 02, what an awesome thread! My eyes can't take the reading any longer so if someone can answer my question I would appreciate it.
My leak is coming out of the drain tube mounted on the frame on the passenger side of the truck. I do not have a leak on top at the fuel bowl and there is no fuel in the valley. Will replacing the o-rings stop the drip coming out of the drain tube? Thanks in advance.
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2002 F-250 PSD, 4x4, CC/SB, K & N
Everything else Stock
I just stumbled on this thread after discovering a fuel leak on my 02, what an awesome thread! My eyes can't take the reading any longer so if someone can answer my question I would appreciate it.
My leak is coming out of the drain tube mounted on the frame on the passenger side of the truck. I do not have a leak on top at the fuel bowl and there is no fuel in the valley. Will replacing the o-rings stop the drip coming out of the drain tube? Thanks in advance.
Anybody got an answer to my question, I'm about to tear into this thing.
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2002 F-250 PSD, 4x4, CC/SB, K & N
Everything else Stock
I just stumbled on this thread after discovering a fuel leak on my 02, what an awesome thread! My eyes can't take the reading any longer so if someone can answer my question I would appreciate it.
My leak is coming out of the drain tube mounted on the frame on the passenger side of the truck. I do not have a leak on top at the fuel bowl and there is no fuel in the valley. Will replacing the o-rings stop the drip coming out of the drain tube? Thanks in advance.
Got er done in one hour............ No more leak! For those interested I got the o-rings at Grainger here in Phoenix. 25 count for $6.25....... Cost me 50 cents to repair. Couldn't have done it without this site.
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2002 F-250 PSD, 4x4, CC/SB, K & N
Everything else Stock
OMG, this FAQ article just saved me from taking my truck to the dealer.
I bought the fuel bowl heater and o-rings for the fuel drain valve (Got the o-rings from Granger, if anyone needs some, I have 23 left)
I checked the size of the screw head that came with the replacement fuel bowl heater and it was 3mm hex head. So I went to the local Snap On man and bought a 3mm hex head socket. I could not get the socket to fit, so I did a search here and found out it was a #20 Torx head. Had both heater and o-rings replaced in 10 or 15 minutes with the help of a 1/4 air ratchet, which I Highly recommend for this job.
Wayne B
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2000 F-250 Super Duty 4x4, Auto, Super Cab, Long Bed.
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