[ QUOTE ]
You can just take your multimeter put the leads in the top of the connector. You don't even have to take the plug off.
[/ QUOTE ]
If you're talking about sticking the multimeter lead down beside the wire going through the seal, I think I'd avoid doing that. Those seals are there to keep moisture out of the connectors. If you damage a seal, you may find that the terminals will get corroded, causing at best a bad connection, and at worst a toasted external connector.
I've been trying to find a source for the external connector, but haven't been successful. About the only other way to repair that is a $500 engine harness. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ]
You can just take your multimeter put the leads in the top of the connector. You don't even have to take the plug off.
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't think that works anyway. All the leads come back to a common point so it won't really tell you anything unless all the plugs were bad.
__________________
Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
You can just take your multimeter put the leads in the top of the connector. You don't even have to take the plug off.
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't think that works anyway. All the leads come back to a common point so it won't really tell you anything unless all the plugs were bad.
[/ QUOTE ]
Exactly right, I forgot about that. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]
OTC makes a tool that's a connector with each wire brought out to a test point to check GP's and injectors, but they want $75 for it. Pulling the connector is much cheaper and works just as well.
Great write up! One quick comment, when my GPR went bad, it was intermittent.
I would turn the key on, wait to start, and try to start it. at first, once out of 10 times it wouldn't start right up, and I'd repeat the process.
Eventually, it wouldn't start no matter what.
Only reason I mention this, is using your great testing techniques, you might "luck in" and test it when it was working.
The 99 and up GPR is like 25 bucks at the local parts store, and the local parts store DOES stock them, and it takes under an hour to replace it.
Just edited the original post to inlcude pics of getting the VC connectors loose. Also added a note on checking the GPR a couple of times to make sure the good connection isn't a fluke.
[ QUOTE ]
Would it be possible to convert my Glow Plug Controller to the Glow Plug Relay setup? Dont they do the same thing???
[/ QUOTE ]
They do the same thing, but go about it a little differently.
If you could determine which wires to your GPC come from the PCM to activate it, you could probably rewire the engine harness to install a GPR instead, but I doubt it would be worth the effort.
I believe the solid state GPC may be a litte more robust than a GPR, not having contacts to arc when it disconnects.
Ahh, I see whatcha mean. In my ongoing experience, the truck would start 50/50. Sometimes it would crank right up in the morn, starter would sound normal. Other times, Id put it in the on position in the morn and the batt. indicator on the dash would slowly go down to the 8 mark very erratically and then the stock headunit would flash on and off, as well as a bunch of clicking coming from the engine bay. When the truck is warm, it wouldn't have the problem. I'm thinking the ECU is bypassing the warming of the GPs and thus bypassing the GPC? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ]
Other times, Id put it in the on position in the morn and the batt. indicator on the dash would slowly go down to the 8 mark very erratically and then the stock headunit would flash on and off, as well as a bunch of clicking coming from the engine bay.
[/ QUOTE ]
That sounds like you are having a battery issue. How old are they?
[ QUOTE ]
When the truck is warm, it wouldn't have the problem. I'm thinking the ECU is bypassing the warming of the GPs and thus bypassing the GPC? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes, the GPR (and presumably the GPC) is controlled by the PCM to only energize the GP's when the engine is cold. If the oil temp is over a certain value, the GP's won't even be turned on.
That sounds like you are having a battery issue. How old are they?
[/ QUOTE ]
They were replacement Red Top Optimas. The first set, I had for about 6 mos., the second set was replaced in Aug. of this year. In the beginning they worked good, then I'd have to jump the truck every so often, especially after sitting more than a day or so...Now I'm jumpin the truck more than haveing it start on its own [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] This gets old after about the second time. Now, I'm at about the 15th time I've had to jump the truck now [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/depressed.gif[/img] I'm thinkin about going to the dealer and getting their batts., cuz the stockers lasted for about 3 and a half years before they started to weaken. Probably because I never filled them up with distilled. Are the dealer batts worth getting? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] I dont mind the build up on the terminals, as long as the darn thing starts!
I just replaced my 6+ yr olds with the batteries that Costco carries. Made by Johnson Controls (who may make the Motorcrafts) and they have a rating of 1000 CCA, better than the stockers.
You may have something that's draining your batteries when the truck is turned off, since your batteries have been lasting such a short time. That's definitely worth looking into.
[ QUOTE ]
Just edited the original post to inlcude pics of getting the VC connectors loose. Also added a note on checking the GPR a couple of times to make sure the good connection isn't a fluke.
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks for updating with pics. Will try it this weekend.
I replaced my GPR and Tested all my plugs.. The Plugs 5 and 6 I think.. The ones towards the front of the grill, but the 2nd row.. so not the closest but the ones behind it.. They both show infinite readouts on ohms.. The Others all show .7 Ohms. I dont think 2 bad glow plugs would make it not start.. do you?
However, the truck still has a very hard time starting. its 70 degrees out right now.. and I got it to start once, only to stall.. My batteries are almost dead now with me trying to start it so many times.. And I know that its not the batteries because I can get the truck to start, but it just stalls right after..
My Oil is fine, I just changed it.. and My dad has a 99 7.3L with the same oil and his works fine..
Help!
first charge your batteries back up so you aren't spinning your wheels.
i'd be checking hpop oil level, because it is pretty easy.
then I would be trying to figure out if your fuel pump is coming on. When trying to start it, does lots of white smoke come out the tail pipe? by lots, I mean garbage cans full. less white smoke indicates lack of fuel. lots of white smoke indicates lots of unburned fuel, ie glow plug problems.
), AIS, 
105.5k so far...
Linear Mode
