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With synthetics how far between oil changes can you go? Can you get it at checkers or where is the best place to buy it?
C.J.
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There is only one retail bought synthetic that I normally recommend and that is Shell Rotella synthetic 5w-40 which can be found at WalMart. If you can find Chevron Delo 5w-40 or Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w-40, they should work good too. The synthetic oil I recommend over everything else is Schaeffer's 9000 5w-40 which can be bought from Dp-tuner and specializedlubricants.net I'm not a big fan of Mobil 5w-40 wether it be Delvac-1 or T&SUV because they are so inconsistant in their additive pack from batch to batch. One batch will look good, another lot number will look weak.
As far as how long you can run them, first of all, if you do plan to do extended drains, install a bypass filter to minimize build up of insolubles. Second of all, back your extended drains up with Used Oil Analysis to ensure you are not overextending your oil because all engines shed wear particles in differing amounts. With all that being said, you can probably run most syns at least 10000 miles and sometimes much longer.
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Now that I know my problem is normal, I have a few questions. I live in southern Nevada on the border of Death Valley. This summer my truck (Early 99 F-350 crew cab PSD) started romping. The temp. was around 70F. At that time it set a code for the cam sensor. I changed it.
Why was it romping when warm?
I use Rotella 15w-40. If I changed to 10w-30 or even 5w-40 will it help or hurt my engine?
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It is not unusuall for these engines to romp in cold temps and it is usually due to too heavy weight oil or a faulty glow plug system. At 70F, I doubt that either is your problem. You need to look elsewhere.
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Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first
Its been lows in upper 30s, highs in the 60s and it has gotten a lot worse. Glow plugs all check out at 0.6, glow plug relay has around .25 volt diffence from in to out.
Where do I look?
Don't really know. Fuel filter, Fuel pressure. HPOP ?? Start a new post in this forum with your symptoms and maybe someone more knowledgeable than I can help. sorry.
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Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first
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There is only one retail bought synthetic that I normally recommend and that is Shell Rotella synthetic 5w-40
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I did my 1st oil change this past weekend since I bought my truck and I used the Rotella T synth. It quieted the engine down a good bit. No idea what the previous owner used, but it looked like the consistency of Canola oil...
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2001 F250 7.3L Powerstroke, extend cab, short bed
i had an appointment with the mech today because i have been having cold starting problems to the point of my batteries going dead trying to start it. went out this morning, left the key on for a minute or two and it then started right up. ???????? how often should glow plugs be changed?
i had an appointment with the mech today because i have been having cold starting problems to the point of my batteries going dead trying to start it. went out this morning, left the key on for a minute or two and it then started right up. ???????? how often should glow plugs be changed?
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When they go bad. See the hard start/no start sticky at the top of this forum for info on how to check.
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Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first
Thank you for this entire thread. I'm a new, first time diesel owner and I wish all of y'all had written my owner manual. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
ok so for the WHATS THAT SOUND. If it's coming from the tail pipe and sounds like someone has stuffed a potato up there, it's the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBV). This valve closes in a cold engine to create a load which will help the engine warm up a little quicker.
my sound isnt coming from the tail pipe it sounds like pssssssssssssssst and will go away at say 3/4 throttle, and it feels like its holding up the truck in tems of performance. i had initally thought a waste gate was stuck open then i got to thinking more that maybe it was something ford did to help the turbo/motor in cold conditions cuz it did it one day in 30 deg but then the next morn it was like 50 and it didnt do it. so i hope thats what it is.
oh im duffy by the way new guy here ill do an introduction in anothe thread.
Got down to 17 degrees F here in Central Texas a few days ago. Iced up the roads some too. Coupled with a 30 MPH north wind, it makes you think it is really cold.
My 2002 CC rolled out of its bed and started right up. Did not like the cold, however. Grumbled, and was louder than usual until things warmed up! Do believe the winter Power Service additive helps.
Agreed, this is a tremendous site and I too, am indebted, as a fairly new PSD owner, to those who have worked hard in years past to make it that way. You know who you are. It does not get to be a great site by accident. It takes a lot of hard work. Thank you all!
Mike
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2002 2WD XLT CrewCab, 3.73 Limited Slip. KC reverse backup lights with on/off dash switch , Mobil 1 Transmission Fluid, Undercover Bed Lid, Monroe Reflex Shocks. Gentex K-21 auto dimming/temp/compass mirror. Michelin LTX/MS tires. Door Seal Mod. ZooDad. Ford SD AIS. Assembled 08-09-01, Cuautitlan Mexico
Hello all I'm new here. I bought my 2001 4X4 EXT-Cab LB PSD a few months ago and now I'm seeing the cold side of things. I've had my GPR and Glow plugs tested and they test fine. I still have cold start issues in the morning and I see the smoke spoken of in some of the posts here. I was wonering if the chip installed in the truck would have anything to do with the start issue.
The truck has a 125 hp chip
Suncoast tranny
and Exhaust up grade not sure what kind or type of chip. But I did have it verified before buying the truck from a guy in my sub-division. He bought a 05 crew cab for work and sold me this one for a steal I think.
I just ordered a CD manual for the F250 off ebay. Hope to have it in this week so I can start diagnosing things myself. well at least be able to find suggested problem parts. hahahahaha.
I'm from NC and it really hasn't got'n cold here yet. some folks on here are posting sub 0 numbers the loest here has been around 28-30 *.... nothing like -28 or anything -.
I still have cold start issues in the morning and I see the smoke spoken of in some of the posts here.
I just ordered a CD manual for the F250 off ebay.
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Welcome to the fun, I guess you are new to diesels as well to this site.
I don't know if the chip has an affect on the cold start smoke and there are so many chips and so many different burns the chips could have on them it would be really hard to tell. You don't say what kind of smoke you are seeing. White smoke for the first start on a cold morning isn't that unusual.
In my experiance 25 to 30 isn't cold enough to see that much smoke. I don't start seeing smoke till it gets down to 10 to 15 and then it is gone in seconds. My truck is pretty much stock.
I was wondering who made the manual you got on ebay and how much did it end up costing? I'd be interested in knowing what you think of it after you get it, I have been thinking of getting one.
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H2OWALL, 2003, 7.3L, F350, FX4, SC, Lariat, 6spd, 3:73LS, Prepump Mod, Harpooned, Royal Purple ATF, Warn Prem Hubs, BF Goodrich All Terrain TA/KO 305/70/16, MBRP 4" turbo back exhaust, DP Tuner- Stock, 40, 80, 120. DiPricol Optix Gauges- Boost, EGT, DIY Tymar, Sirius radio, Turbonetics.
180,000 miles on orginal brake pads & rotors.
213,000 and going strong!
A bad day on the water is still better than a good day at work. dwhyland on webshots
If you are haveing problems starting I would look first at the batterys. Pull the caps and check the cells. The passenger side is usually the first to go bad.
DENNY
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1999 F350 CC SRW LB 4X4 SIX SPEED.
The glow plug system needs to be in good operating condition. klhansen has posted a sticky on the top of this forum on how to check them.
What's that noise? One of two things and probably both. If it's coming from under the hood, it's the engine cooling fan. The engine fan's thermo coupling is suffering from “morning sickness” (Ford's term, not mine) and is more noticeable in cold weather. This will quieten down in a few minutes as the silicates or what ever they are, get back to where ever they belong.
If it's coming from the tail pipe and sounds like someone has stuffed a potato up there, it's the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBV). This valve closes in a cold engine to create a load which will help the engine warm up a little quicker.
RPM increases. In the cold weather and the vehicle believes it has been parked for 90 seconds to 2 minutes the computer will increase the engine rpm. I understand the standard transmission equipped need the park brake set for this to kick in. How much increase depends on the ambient temperature and barometric pressure. My truck will idle up from 700 to 1300 rpm. You will notice that engine temperature has no bearing. The reason for the rpm increase is to prevent a condition called “wet stacking”. A diesel engine produces little heat while idling. Sucking in cold air doesn't help matters. The combustion chambers don't get hot enough and a sticky deposit remains on valves, valve stems and guides eventually causing engine damage. At least that's the story. I doubt you will find case of it actually happening to a 7.3 on this forum. Maybe it works. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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2 quick things, on the RPM ramp-up and exhaust whooshing noise, it's called CAP (Cold Ambient Protecion) and it's main input is the IAT sensor, cold intake air usually turns it on. Make sure the EBP sensor and tube are not clogged or the whooshing will be worse and cause alot of cold driveability problems. Also, with glow plugs, my 10 years experience (most with IH diesels) and a wise old tech for a teacher hs taught me that when replacing the glowplugs, use ONLY Ford or Navistar (Bosch) glowplugs. I have seen alot of guys put champions in and within 6 months they pop like zits on a teenager. I know Bosch costs more, but it's worth it. Anyways, there's my 2 cents. Cool Canuk has hit the nail on the head for how to handle your 7.3 in cold weather. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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