Also, with glow plugs, my 10 years experience (most with IH diesels) and a wise old tech for a teacher hs taught me that when replacing the glowplugs, use ONLY Ford or Navistar (Bosch) glowplugs. I have seen alot of guys put champions in and within 6 months they pop like zits on a teenager. I know Bosch costs more, but it's worth it.
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The OEM glow plugs sold by Ford & International are NOT Bosch. They are BERU. But the advice to use OEM plugs is spot on and the BERU's can be found at Autozone surprisingly. Whatever you do, DO NOT BUY AUTOLITES! Unless of course you want tips breaking off and destroying your cylinders.
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my sound isnt coming from the tail pipe it sounds like pssssssssssssssst and will go away at say 3/4 throttle, and it feels like its holding up the truck in tems of performance. i had initally thought a waste gate was stuck open then i got to thinking more that maybe it was something ford did to help the turbo/motor in cold conditions cuz it did it one day in 30 deg but then the next morn it was like 50 and it didnt do it. so i hope thats what it is.
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I'm with Duffy. I am also hearing a pssssssst sound, more often in cold temps, but not extremely cold - Usually around 30F and below. It is more noticeable the colder it gets. Generally when I'm coasting but just hitting the throttle enough to maintain about 25mph on a level road. If I throttle up it goes away and if I idle it goes away. I thought it might be something from the turbo, but I have no idea. It does seem to hinder performance, though. I still hear it even after the engine reaches operating temp.
By the way, I'm also new to this forum. I'm glad someone told me about this because I'm having cold start problems, too. I think you all answered all my questions about that. Thanks!!
Joe
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'99 F250 SD 7.3L PSD EXD CAB SHORT BED 4x4
HYPERTECH TUNER, BANKS EXHAUST
Its your Exhaust Back Pressure Valve........its normal......goes away once the oil temp has reached something like 150 degrees. Yes, it hurts performance a little. Its designed to help the truck get up to running temps faster. It also acts as a warning to me not to get on it until it has quit. Some disconnect it, but not me. Its there for a reason.
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Now that I know my problem is normal, I have a few questions. I live in southern Nevada on the border of Death Valley. This summer my truck (Early 99 F-350 crew cab PSD) started romping. The temp. was around 70F. At that time it set a code for the cam sensor. I changed it.
Why was it romping when warm?
I use Rotella 15w-40. If I changed to 10w-30 or even 5w-40 will it help or hurt my engine?
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mine did this, and was the cam sensor failing. I ignored it not knowing much about these motors...and when it blew, the primary alternator went as well. Actually, the cam sensor probably went as a result of the alternator going. I drove it for almost a year thinking I had fuel problems...gotta love the second alternator & two batteries. As far as cold...I've been told to run rotella ATF fluid in the gas during winter to aid in the lubrication. Anyone heard of this?? The mix is 1 qt. to 1 full tank...I usually re-fill arounf 30-35 gallons or so. (I know I cut it too close..)
Thoughts???
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2000 Ford 1 ton dually 4x4, ext. cab, 7.3L, No performance mods yet, Custom painted Browning Edition Leer 122 Top, Bull Bar with KC Daylighters, APC Clear Front Corers & HID Headlights.
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ok so for the WHATS THAT SOUND. If it's coming from the tail pipe and sounds like someone has stuffed a potato up there, it's the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBV). This valve closes in a cold engine to create a load which will help the engine warm up a little quicker.
my sound isnt coming from the tail pipe it sounds like pssssssssssssssst and will go away at say 3/4 throttle, and it feels like its holding up the truck in tems of performance. i had initally thought a waste gate was stuck open then i got to thinking more that maybe it was something ford did to help the turbo/motor in cold conditions cuz it did it one day in 30 deg but then the next morn it was like 50 and it didnt do it. so i hope thats what it is.
oh im duffy by the way new guy here ill do an introduction in anothe thread.
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The answer to your question I beleive lies more of when it is happening. Are you saying that you notice the sound when it is high idling? Mine does a pssst pssst cycle at the high idle as the wastgate gets rid of the uneeded boost while idling at higher rpms. It'll sound like its bouncing that wastegate a bunch...and its normal. Now if you are talking about when you are driving...again it depends on how you are driving. I don't get much waste when towing my boat...truck uses that power. But when I'm driving around town...it wasts a lot.
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2000 Ford 1 ton dually 4x4, ext. cab, 7.3L, No performance mods yet, Custom painted Browning Edition Leer 122 Top, Bull Bar with KC Daylighters, APC Clear Front Corers & HID Headlights.
AKVolDaddy
Hi
We missed you at the Alaska rally today. My advice on ATF is it belongs in the tranny not the fuel tank. There are several good Diesel fuel additives that are made to lube, clean and prevent gelling of the fuel. I would use one of them not ATF. The exhaust backpressure valve is what is causing the pssst pssst cycle at the high idle. It is making the motor work harder so it will warm quicker it is not the wastegate getting rid of boost. Keep an eye on the events and rally forums we will be haveing another one comming up.
DENNY
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1999 F350 CC SRW LB 4X4 SIX SPEED.
i had an appointment with the mech today because i have been having cold starting problems to the point of my batteries going dead trying to start it. went out this morning, left the key on for a minute or two and it then started right up. ???????? how often should glow plugs be changed?
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Steve, If you haven't figured it out yet it sounds to me like your glow plug relay not the plugs themselves. Every time you start your truck, worm or cold, the relay engages then disengages, when it disengages the points inside the relay arc across the relay disc and it creates a small burn mark on the disc. After a few thousand starts the disc gets all pitted up which can cause an intermittent connection, so one time you might get a good connection, plugs heat up
and the truck starts, the next time you may not get a connection so the plugs never heat up and your truck won't start.
Also, with glow plugs, my 10 years experience (most with IH diesels) and a wise old tech for a teacher hs taught me that when replacing the glowplugs, use ONLY Ford or Navistar (Bosch) glowplugs. I have seen alot of guys put champions in and within 6 months they pop like zits on a teenager. I know Bosch costs more, but it's worth it.
[/ QUOTE ]
The OEM glow plugs sold by Ford & International are NOT Bosch. They are BERU. But the advice to use OEM plugs is spot on and the BERU's can be found at Autozone surprisingly. Whatever you do, DO NOT BUY AUTOLITES! Unless of course you want tips breaking off and destroying your cylinders.
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I turn the key on and wait 15 - 30 seconds or so. The colder it is, the longer I'll wait. The wait to start light is just another computer generated idiot light. The glow plugs stay powered up well after that lite goes out. Up to 2 minutes. If it has been plugged in, I will use that time to unplug the truck and do what ever with the extension cord.
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Sir, awsome write up, wow.. I replaced the Batteries, GPR-111 and let the glow plugs heat up for a good 1-2 min and "Waa Laaa" started right up, no stalling at 2 min mark.... Thank You... Oh, I know i don't live in the Northern Area's (Virginia) it got down to 28 degrees last night and she was plugged in... Ceece
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2000 F-350 7.3 PSD Crew Cab
Lariat 4x4 Gold/Black
Diablo Predator Tuner
Mac Cold Air Kit
Magna Flow Stainless Steel Exhaust
3.5" Down Pipe
4" Exhaust
I am a new Diesel owner and I have had alot of questions. Your post cleared up every single question I had about winter operation. I really appreciate it.
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and let the glow plugs heat up for a good 1-2 min and "Waa Laaa" started right up,
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You shouldn't need much more than 15 sec at those temps and never more than 1 min. at any temperature. You want the glow plugs to stay lit for awhile after the engine has fired up. By waiting for 2 min. before starting, the timer will have ran out.
I don't know enough about the system. My understanding is that at temps around freezing you will not get a full 2 min. therefore, you don't want to wait too long.
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Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first
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Thank you gentlemen. I'm glad it helped.
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and let the glow plugs heat up for a good 1-2 min and "Waa Laaa" started right up,
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You shouldn't need much more than 15 sec at those temps and never more than 1 min. at any temperature. You want the glow plugs to stay lit for awhile after the engine has fired up. By waiting for 2 min. before starting, the timer will have ran out.
I don't know enough about the system. My understanding is that at temps around freezing you will not get a full 2 min. therefore, you don't want to wait too long.
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I have read that the "Glow Plugs" may remain "ON" up to 120 seconds while the engine is running to reduce exhaust emissions during engine warm up, now the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) and BARO (Barometric sensors) initially control how long the "Wait To Start" light stays on ... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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2000 F-350 7.3 PSD Crew Cab
Lariat 4x4 Gold/Black
Diablo Predator Tuner
Mac Cold Air Kit
Magna Flow Stainless Steel Exhaust
3.5" Down Pipe
4" Exhaust
So basically if we are wearing shorts right now and sippin' iced tea, we should otherwise disregard this post? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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99 250 4x4 CC SB PSD A/T LARIAT ~200K
I've been running Rotella 15w-40 year round. I get romps on almost every start once the temp drops below about 25F and the heater hasn't been plugged in. Is this because of the oil? Can anyone comment on the "normal" temp where Romps start because of running 15w-40?
You are getting down to the lower end of recommended temperature for 15W30. There is a chart in your diesel supplement. You should probably check for a bad glow plug or two first. See the Hard Start/No Start Sticky. Then change to a 10W30 oil for the winter. Your truck will be happier with it.
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Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first