Also, with glow plugs, my 10 years experience (most with IH diesels) and a wise old tech for a teacher hs taught me that when replacing the glowplugs, use ONLY Ford or Navistar (Bosch) glowplugs. I have seen alot of guys put champions in and within 6 months they pop like zits on a teenager. I know Bosch costs more, but it's worth it.
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The OEM glow plugs sold by Ford & International are NOT Bosch. They are BERU. But the advice to use OEM plugs is spot on and the BERU's can be found at Autozone surprisingly. Whatever you do, DO NOT BUY AUTOLITES! Unless of course you want tips breaking off and destroying your cylinders.
Hammer
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I'm sorry, I stand corrected. They are BERU.
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I am usually not one to beat a dead horse or split hairs, but this kept gnawing at me. I checked around at Ford and Intl. and just for the sake of saying it, and they did run Bosch for years and years, and it's been recently that they switched suppliers to beru. The only reason I pursued it was because I Know that I had installed OEM plugs that had bosch written on them. One of the old parts guys I talked to didn't even realize they switched. It's a moot point, I know but I just had to get that off my chest. Sorry for being annoying, lol. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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Blue smoke happens. My truck will start with the blue smoke just above freezing temps and get worse as the temperature plummets. Down around -30C the neighbors' houses start to disappear. If you let the vehicle idle, it will last a long time and if you drive off it will clear up quickly.
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Great thread [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
This is my first post on this forum. I read this and several other threads but do not see any posts with my exact symtoms, so here it goes.
I have a 2000 F-250 with the power stroke diesel. Ordered new and it now has 70,000 miles. I have an 80 HP Superchip, K & N air filter and just recently added a 4 inch diameter exhaust system. This winter I have noticed that on cold startup it is smoking (blue smoke) much more than it ever did in previous winters. Depending on how cold, it will smoke for 20 seconds to a minute and then it clears up. Air temps are usually 10 to 35 degrees. If the truck was plugged in at night, it does not smoke at all in the morning at startup. The truck starts fine and runs fine. I also normally add a small amount of Howes Lubricator - Diesel Treat to the fuel during winter.
What could my problem be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
sometimes people change something on their trucks, and start watching. once they start watching, they notice things. a LOT of times, those things have been happening all along, but until you started watching, you never noticed.
relax. it is NORMAL, and has been doing it forever. they puff blue smoke when it is cold.
I am new to Diesels this being my first. I have remote start and for the past month I start it from in the house to let it run for about five minutes. Well the last two mornings it fires up and stops and starts again. It does this about three times before it stays running. Last two nights the temp. has only been in the 20's. Do I need start the truck with the key and let the plugs warm for a little longer, Or is their a problem with the remote start? Also I only drive about 5 miles to work in stop and go traffic. Do I need to take it out on the highway and open it up? Thank You for the Help
Doubt if using the key would make any difference and also doubt there is anything wrong with the remote. Just guessing, but it either runs short of fuel or oil. Might check the fuel filter and fuel pressure. You might also try 10W30 weight oil if you haven't already done so.
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2011 f250 XLT 4X4 Crew Cab.
SOLD - 2001 F250 XLT 7.3L SC/SB 4x4 (ESOF) - Tranny Upgrades; SCMT 1705; AIS Intake w/trimmed Snorkel; ZooDad; Turbo back 4" Exhaust; Issopro Pillar Mount Gauges; TC lockup LED; Auto Magic Heater Bypass; 2W Low Switch.
Whats up Duffy!
my truck is doing the same thing I took mine to the mech and he replaced the turbo pedestal(1000.00 in pats and labor and still doing the same thing, have you got any more info on this matter >?? please let me know !
Whoa!! Never say never on Texas. Seen it in single digits in DFW a couple of times and at or below zero in the panhandle around Dalhart or Amarillo. The old timers there say the only thing between Dalhart and Canada is a picket fence. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
In a previous life I had to deal with the weather there hauling bulk periodical mail in an 18 wheeler to a number of postal offices in the Oklahoma/Texas area.
"The transmission is also temperature sensitive and plugging in the block heater isn't going to help it. It will not shift out of second gear until it is damn good and ready. It will not lockup either. In fact, mine, once it does lockup will unlock once the thermo valve opens the cooler line and that slug of cold oil hits the transmission. At least, I think that is what is happening."
It just dropped to -20 degrees around here lately (Montana). I noticed my 01 F350 has no intention of performing a 2-3 upshift even after it's been been driven for 30 minutes since it's gotten this cold. I even noticed a delayed shift into reverse. I was thinking it may be a power valve problem...ie...not enough line pressure. It's only got 53K total on it, and only 20K on the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF fluid. Maybe it's just the extreme cold? All thoughts welcome...I dread the thought of taking it to a tranny shop.
I did a bit of research on the site and according to the info I found the mechanical diode wasn't installed after 3/01. My manufacture date is 06/01 (but that doesn't mean the tranny wasn't built sooner I suppose).
Let me clarify my problem a bit more. I only noticed the delayed reverse engagement once. When I brought up the RPM it engaged (rather harshly).
It does seem to shift fine in reverse and the 2-3 up-shift when cold. After warmup with tranny fluid around 130-150 degrees I notice the 2-3 upshift problem becomes progressively worse to the point I'm working the rpm's up and down to try and induce the shift. When it does shift it will immediately start hunting and usually settles back into what feels like 2nd gear (40 mph and 2200-2500 rpm). Maybe I should start a new post eh...getting off original topic a bit.
Good write up. I live in the Alaskan Interior and temps drop to -50F and colder. (Schools close here at -50). I recently bought my excurson (actually it's my wifes. javascript:void(0) Anyways something else I have done to help protect my batteries is to go to NAPA and buy their small trickle charges. I have two, one for each battery. These I plug into a 2-gang box I mounted under the hood. I also plus my block heater into it as well. I then run a heavy duty cord out from and through the front of the rig. Having lived here for 10 years now and worked with battery blankets and pads. These chargers really do work better. The batterry is kept warm from the inside out and A full charge is waiting when i want to start the rig.
Just thought I'd share this idea for those of us who live in extreme cold weather areas.
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