Mod Name: CCV Mod Mod Difficulty: Easy to Medium (depends on how much you want to spend) Tools Required: Screw driver for removing screws that hold doghouse breather to valve cover, new o-rings to replace those between breather and doghouse if yours are worn/stretched, and whatever tools necessary to assemble your mod the way you choose to do it (hose, hose clamps at a minimum) Time to Perform: 30-45 Minutes Mod Description: Crankcase Vent tube is rerouted from the
air intake to a small canister that traps oil residue. There are
several options for this mod ranging from a pre-built kit to doing it
all yourself. Also can simply route to the atmosphere: reverse CCV breather dog house that is on driver side valve cover, connect length of clear vinyl or heater hose to the existing elbow via a barbed connector and hose clamps, then route hose up and over brake master cylinder and down along frame rail to your chosen point of termination for the hose. Replace the CCV return piece in the intake tube with a small piece of 4" exhaust pipe. Helpful Links: ryaneverk2 webshots album, includes CCV mod pics for vent-to-atmostphere method Subman's post listing links to various homemade CCV setups
Added some info here, as well, so you can sub this one in place of the CCV entry in your original post.
Also, haven't checked but the link garyt supplied above maybe be a link to Subman's post that has links to about 6 different CCV mod setups, and that link would be very good to add to this CCV entry.
edit - I included the link I was referring to of Subman's in my CCV entry above.
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Ryan Arthur
2000 F350 7.3 CC LB DRW 4x4 4R100 4.10 Lariat Performance Mods: ISSPRO gauges, DIY Tymar, straight piped, ITP boost regulator and tee, ATS ported housing, Banks Big Head, CCV Mod, DP-Tuner flip chip, BTS valve body ||| LEDs everywhere: taillights/running boards/mirrors/rear, side lights wired as turn signals, upgraded headlight harness w/ Xtravisions, aux backup lights in bumper ||| Misc. Mods: no more dingers, newer cupholder, fumoto, C-Betrs, locking fuel cap, mud flaps, wannabe air horn, Line-X, behind-seat storage shelf, intercooler foil wrap removed, SS HPX My Truck Pics
Mod Name: Always Bright Overhead Console Mod Mod Difficulty: Easy Tools Required: Wire snippers Time to Perform: 5 minutes Mod Description: Makes it so that the overhead console display does not dim when you turn on the headlights. Cutting the light blue with red tracer wire located under the passenger side kick panel. Helpful Links:Bill G's site including pic of said wire
Re: FAQ: Popular Modifications You Might See Referenced on the Forum
[ QUOTE ]
It won't work. The people who ask the questions that seem so repetitive for us are new and in a hurry. You might snag a few of the more thorough-searchers, but not enough to make a difference.
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree. I find that to be the case at other forums I am a regular at (Lightnings and Mustangs), where I am in the group of people who answer the questions for the newbs. But even though you are correct, it would be nice to have a thread like this, for guys like me who do lurk and search, trying to find the answers I KNOW are already out there because they've been asked in one form or another, three different ways.
So while it may not help the people who don't search, it's easy enough to link them to this thread when they do ask!
But like I said, there are guys like me though, who do know how to use the search button! And finding a post like this helps immensely! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
SVT Performance has a nice setup in the Gen 2 Lightning section. They have individual "How To" threads dedicated to a single mod/upgrade. That thread is then locked so no responses can be recorded. Now a whole thread devoted to one specific "How To" has been created in a forum full of nothing but "How To" threads for the Generation 2 Lightnings. It works great.
Stewart
PS - Trust me, I have a ton of questions I'm trying to find the answers to by using the search button! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
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1999 F150 Lightning
- WMS built engine
2002 F250 Lariat SC 4x2
- 4" turbo back, AFE Stage 1, JW valve body, AC codes, Live Tuned by Jody
2000 7.3L PSD Excursion
- John Wood built 4R100, AFE Stage 2, MBRP 4" SS turbo back, Beans 1.0 housing & WW, DP-Tuner F5 chip, V & B code spring upgrade, Bilsteins, Hellwig rear sway, ITP O/boost Annihilator and pre-pump mod.
Re: FAQ: Popular Modifications You Might See Referenced on the Forum
Mod Name: 2WD Low Mod
Mod Difficulty: easy
Tools Required: a switch & wire cutters, crimpers, tape,ect...
Time to Perform: less than 1 hour
Mod Description: for trucks with ESOF 4x4; gives you a 2wd low gear to slowly move heavy trailers in reverse or forward without straining/overheating the automatic transmission. Accomplished by installing switch in center wire of three wire plug on the hub soleniod located on passenger side fender inside hood. Result is transfer case will go into low range (when dash switch is placed in 4LOW) but the auto hubs will not lock the front axle.
Helpful Links:
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2002 F350 4x4 CC DRW Lariat 7.3 auto 4.10 LS diff.(bought 5-05 @ 76,000 miles) Pyro, Boost, and Trans gauges. AIH delete. Tru-Cool Max trans cooler. Magnafine filter. Royal Purple MAX synthetic ATF. 55 gallon aux bed tank. 2LO Mod.
Okay, I believe I've updated everything requested up to this post. The FAQ is starting to look really good! I glad to see everyone contributing. Yes, it won't stop ALL the newbies, but it should curb a good amount of them. Like it was said before, even if they ignore this FAQ and post a question already answered here, we can just post a link to this thread and be done with them.
To make the thread cleaner (i.e. smaller), I'm going to go back and edit my posts to null. If your update is in place on the original thread, please do the same thing.
Thanks everyone!
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Tony D. Berry
Lafayette, LA
2001 Ford F550, PSD, 4.88, 4R100?
__________________________________________________ ______________________________
Tony, it looks like you may have only copied some parts of the updates I did. Like the CCV mod is lacking some stuff added to the Mod Description, and the others are don't have the tools required, difficulty, etc. sections that I filled in.
What I did when I updated those was I just quoted your post, then added to whatever was there, and didn't remove anything. So I'd just suggest that you take the few that I posted, copy them, and paste them fully in place of those in your original post. That way nothing gets left off and also nothing is replaced, only added to. See what I'm saying? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
edit - for easier viewing, here are the ones I'm talking about to sub into your original post:
Mod Name: IC Foil Wrap Delete Mod Difficulty: Medium Tools Required: pliers to tear off foil, wire wheel attachment for a handheld drill, WD-40 and/or brake parts cleaner Time to Perform: 1-2 hours Mod Description: Intercooler Foil Wrap is removed to increase turbo
spooling sound. No known benefits to performance except maybe a
small weight savings [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] This is the Hot side CAC pipe (driver side), and the air in it is much hotter than the air in the engine comparment, so removing the insulation will do nothing to harm performance. Helpful Links:Forum Post
Mod Name: "Key-in-Ignition" Door Dinger Delete Mod Mod Difficulty: Easy Tools Required: Narrow prodding tool such as a very small screw driver Time to Perform: 5-10 minutes Mod Description: Removes that annoying dinging sound when your
key is in the ignition and the door is open. Turn ignition to RUN (do not start), insert prodding tool in hole under ignition and press the small ball/detent while pulling on ignition cylinder - ignition cylinder will come out. Look closely at the removed cylinder and find the small brass contact. You can wrap a bit of tape around it or simply pull it off. Reinsert ignition cylinder; it will click into place. Alternate method is to cut the black with pink tracer wire that runs up to the ignition cylinder. Helpful Links:
Mod Name: CCV Mod Mod Difficulty: Easy to Medium (depends on how much you want to spend) Tools Required: Screw driver for removing screws that hold doghouse breather to valve cover, new o-rings to replace those between breather and doghouse if yours are worn/stretched, and whatever tools necessary to assemble your mod the way you choose to do it (hose, hose clamps at a minimum) Time to Perform: 30-45 Minutes Mod Description: Crankcase Vent tube is rerouted from the
air intake to a small canister that traps oil residue. There are
several options for this mod ranging from a pre-built kit to doing it
all yourself. Also can simply route to the atmosphere: reverse CCV breather dog house that is on driver side valve cover, connect length of clear vinyl or heater hose to the existing elbow via a barbed connector and hose clamps, then route hose up and over brake master cylinder and down along frame rail to your chosen point of termination for the hose. Replace the CCV return piece in the intake tube with a small piece of 4" exhaust pipe. Helpful Links: ryaneverk2 webshots album, includes CCV mod pics for vent-to-atmostphere method Subman's post listing links to various homemade CCV setups
Mod Name: Always Bright Overhead Console Mod Mod Difficulty: Easy Tools Required: Wire snippers Time to Perform: 5 minutes Mod Description: Makes it so that the overhead console display does not dim when you turn on the headlights. Cutting the light blue with red tracer wire located under the passenger side kick panel. Helpful Links:Bill G's site including pic of said wire
Re: FAQ: Popular Modifications You Might See Referenced on the Forum
[ QUOTE ] Mod Name: 10K Mod Mod Difficulty: Easy to Medium Tools Required: 10,000 ohm Resistor, soldering iron, solder. Time to Perform: 10 mins to 1 hour depending on variation used. Mod Description: Insert a 10k ohm resistor across the ICP sensor to fool the computer into boosting injector oil pressure. Makes the computer think the HPOP and IPR are low and increases output. Variations: Variations include Adjustable 10k mod, 18k mod, Diode Clamp Mod. Helpful Links:Ford_Forgotton's 10k mod page
Mod Name: IDM Mod Mod Difficulty: Difficult to Very Difficult Tools Required: Soldering Iron, Solder, Sealant, Hand Tools Time to Perform: 1 hour to mod, 24 hours to cure sealant Mod Description: Originally invented by Joe_Servo. Remove a resistor inside the IDM and replace it with a higher value. Increases the injector driver module output voltage from 110 volts to around 135 volts. Extreme caution encouraged. Damaged IDMs are expensive to replace. Helpful Links:Ford_Forgotton's IDM mod page
now i dunno if i missed it or not but i can't find anything on the aih mod i've been searchin for a couple days now
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2000 F-250, 6 SPD, 4x4, single cab long bed, 6" superlift, 36" Irok swampers, 7" Mitre cut stacks, ts 4 position chip, Tymar, HPX line, Boost and Pyro autometer gages, CCV w/ canister,warn hub locks
LED on bumper.. under cab.. top of cab.. on the back of bed. blah blah blah
aih mod. removing the air intake heater from the intake. the AIH is designed to reduce emissions by heating the air going into the engine at certain cold air, low rpm conditions.
The benefits are not measurable on a dyno, although from looking at it you would think it would help.
[ QUOTE ]
If we could develop these things into articles with one sticky post with links to various articles, that would be the best of all.
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks for the vote of confidence Kevin, I agree with what you're saying as well. I wanted to help out and figured this would be the easiest solution and would give us some feedback as to the best way to handle it in the future.
On a related note, could we crank up the timeout on editting posts so I can append some of the newest suggestions (sorry I missed yours Ryan!) to the original post?
Thanks!
__________________
Tony D. Berry
Lafayette, LA
2001 Ford F550, PSD, 4.88, 4R100?
__________________________________________________ ______________________________
Tony, if it's too late to edit your original post, try sending a PM to klhansen, a moderator, and ask him to edit the necessary stuff into your original post. I'm sure he'd be willing to make the necessary changes.
__________________
Ryan Arthur
2000 F350 7.3 CC LB DRW 4x4 4R100 4.10 Lariat Performance Mods: ISSPRO gauges, DIY Tymar, straight piped, ITP boost regulator and tee, ATS ported housing, Banks Big Head, CCV Mod, DP-Tuner flip chip, BTS valve body ||| LEDs everywhere: taillights/running boards/mirrors/rear, side lights wired as turn signals, upgraded headlight harness w/ Xtravisions, aux backup lights in bumper ||| Misc. Mods: no more dingers, newer cupholder, fumoto, C-Betrs, locking fuel cap, mud flaps, wannabe air horn, Line-X, behind-seat storage shelf, intercooler foil wrap removed, SS HPX My Truck Pics
Re: FAQ: Popular Modifications You Might See Referenced on the Forum
[ QUOTE ]
PS - Trust me, I have a ton of questions I'm trying to find the answers to by using the search button! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
[/ QUOTE ]
Good luck. Its frustrating as heck.
This forum (its software) doesnt separate body from signatures...so when every Jimbob and Harry lists their 50 mods (some as massively significant as the color of their lugnuts) you end up with 10,000 hits on your search, but only 1 of them is the how-to. The other 9,999 are "Me too.(c)AOL" signature entries on that they -did- it.
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F550SD Tow Truck.
Everyone needs one of these...
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