The closed position must be learned after cleaning the valve. You can set codes if the closed position is not relearned. The keep alive memory must be wiped out and then the the self test must be ran. You might set Po4o4 or P1335 if the new close position does not match the ECM's stored position.
I notice that much is said about the quality of fuel and lots of time idling with regards to the coking of the 6.0L. There hasn't been any mention, or very little about crankcase oil.
How much of a role does the motor oil have regarding the coking?
The reason why I am asking this question is because of all the reading I have done on EGR problems, maintenance and advice, I am now contemplating using Amsoil on the next oil change. Amsoil puts some emphasis on the fact that their motor oil has a "12 TBN" - (Total Base Number (TBN) is the measurement of a lubricant’s reserve alkalinity for combating acids).
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-30/SAE 30 Diesel Oil (ACD) is formulated with premium synthetic base oils that exceed both 10W-30 multi-grade and SAE 30 straight-grade viscosity requirements for outstanding performance in modern and older diesel engines. Unlike conventional SAE 30 motor oils, AMSOIL ACD has a naturally high viscosity index and does not contain paraffin (wax). It has a -36°F pour point and qualifies for SAE 10W, making it an “all season” multi-grade lubricant with a wide operating temperature range. AMSOIL ACD is formulated without viscosity index improvers (VI). This shear stable formulation stops viscosity loss and associated bearing and cylinder bore wear. AMSOIL ACD contains premium additives with a high 12 TBN to neutralize acids from blow-by, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) and high sulfur diesel fuels. It protects against damaging piston deposits, ring sticking and sludge.
__________________ Ken
Winnipeg, Manitoba, CANADA
2006 F-250 King Ranch 6.0L Diesel - 4x2 - Stock
I just want to age disgracefully
Has anyone out there disconnected the electrical connection on the EGR valve? I have been told that you can do this. I know of three people that are running disconnected, and now I am. Runs perfect although I haven't had a chance to check the mileage. Mine was replaced at 60,000 and again at 102,000, just after the extended warranty ran out. Now I'm loosing some more water. The dealer thinks it might be the EGR cooler this time. Where does it stop? How about the blocking kits for the valve and also the cooler, anyone tried this. Help!!
I have heard of folks running without it plugged in, not sure if it is a big deal or not. I am sure tree huggers would say its bad for the trees.
I had mine replaced twice within the 100K mileage wty but after that, now having 140K plus I am sure its probably due again as i get more smoke at starts, more smoke than i used to, and rough at times when starting with small amounts of surging at times, very miniscule but noticable to a sensative person, wife says I don't notice it.
I tried without success to remove it to see how dirty it was. Not sure of a way of getting it out without breaking something. It seems to be really stuck in there and no good way of getting a hold of it to remove. Is there a trick to getting it out?
One of the times when it was really bad and Ford could not get me into the dealership to replace it as they were on Back Order, they unoffically unplugged it to get me by until they could get the part.
__________________
Build Date of January 2003 6.0/Torque Shift, F250 XLT CC FX4, Camper Package, 6 Disk, Power Seats, Privacy Glass, Edge Tuner/Attitude, Air Raid Intake, 4" Exhaust/5" SS Tip, 144K Miles, Stock BF Goodrich Tires
I just took mine out and cleaned it man was it caked witn gunk. I also noticed a lot of crap down in the hole where the valve came out of. anyone know of a way to get to all that ?
searcyfarms - I used a clamp and put it on the metel part and twistwed and pulled, was tight but got it out. hope that helped
My truck just went in the garage for it's 3rd egr valve in 25,000 miles. The first one went at about 107,000 - the 2nd at about 127,000 so the 12,000 mile warranty was no good.
This time we think we found the problem. The tech and the mechanic and I were talking about the problem because I pull RV's with my F-350 and can't afford this. I had codes 0401 & 0403 both times. I told the mechanic I thought it was the cooler. He said there wasn't a code - if I was only using coolant he could make the change. I told him I just put in 2 gallons this week and two gallons three weeks ago. He said "That's it - let's make the change."
I have an extended warranty to 200,000 so I'm covered, and they are doing the oil cooler too. Over $3,000 in work - $100 to me.
Just did mine - it was fairly gunked up - I bought the truck used and when I cleaned the EGR I notice the folks who had it before me reused the o rings and gasket. The orings were nicked and the area where the gasket covered had carbon build up on the intake and the EGR - so it was leaking. Replaced with the 6 buck set from Ford and truck runs much better. Don't skip the new gasket and rings folks - it may save you from doing all that work and finding no improvement!!!
__________________
2006 F350 Dually 6.0L Tommy Gate Lo0oking for heated seats !
Did this job today. Piece 'o cake! 2 minutes tops to have the EGR Valve in my hand, 20 minute soak, 10 minute scrub, 10 minute soak in fresh cleaner, cleaned it up/off and 2 minutes to install with new o-rings and gasket. Waaaaaay too easy to do, no smoke on start up and it seems much happier now
Jim
I have heard of folks running without it plugged in, not sure if it is a big deal or not. I am sure tree huggers would say its bad for the trees.
I had mine replaced twice within the 100K mileage wty but after that, now having 140K plus I am sure its probably due again as i get more smoke at starts, more smoke than i used to, and rough at times when starting with small amounts of surging at times, very miniscule but noticable to a sensative person, wife says I don't notice it.
I tried without success to remove it to see how dirty it was. Not sure of a way of getting it out without breaking something. It seems to be really stuck in there and no good way of getting a hold of it to remove. Is there a trick to getting it out?
One of the times when it was really bad and Ford could not get me into the dealership to replace it as they were on Back Order, they unoffically unplugged it to get me by until they could get the part.
My check engine light just came on yesterday so I scanned the code and got a P0404 and a P1335 which indicated EGR flow and travel fault. After pricing a new one at over $200.00 wholesale I searched the internet and found this site. I found a thread on this site for removing the EGR valve on a 6.0. I removed mine with no special tools and had it cleaned and reinstalled in less than an hour. I loosened the cold air tube clamp then removed the 4 8mm bolts so it could be lifted up and swivled out of the way. Next I removed the 2 8mm bolts from the EGR valve. Now the valve can be twisted/rotated counter-clockwise (it is manditory to rotate the EGR valve body in this fashion). This puts the bolt flanges over open space so a small pry bar can be used to ever so gently lift up on the flanges (alternately). After a few moments the EGR should work loose and be able to be lifted out. I just took mine out today at 35,000 miles and it was completely coked up. I used carb/throttle body cleaner, a small screw driver and a shop towel to clean it out. I did not have a new o-ring and gasket kit so I cleaned the old ones off and lubricated the 0-rings with clean motor oil before re-installing the valve. If you are carefull during the removal process you may not have to replace the o-rings and the gasket. I plan on aquiring a gasket set just in case these fail on me. Now that I know how easy it is to clean I plan on trying to clean it out every 10,000 to 15,000 miles.
I quit replacing it and started cleaning it every 25-30K miles. Worked great but I would blow heck-a-sish black smoke for a little while until the PCM got all learned up again.
Cleaning was better than replacing, but even that got pretty old after a while. Now the plug is accidentally left off the top. It stays clean, never clogs or sticks, and I don't have to clean it nearly as often.
If you do want to clean it periodically, you can get the o-rings and the gasket at an International dealer a lot cheaper than at the FoMoCo dealer. Ford charged me around 30 bucks for the 2 ring 1 gasket kit. International charges a couple bucks for each.
2006 F350 CC LWB Dually XLT Oxford white manual 4x4 6.0 PSD 6 speed. 4.10 LS front and rear, Built May05. 4" turbo back, 100gal aux fuel tank. A real pig from a stop, but give me 10' and she'll lite'em up.
150K miles, 12 injectors, EGR cooler, Fuel pump, 8glow plugs, GPCM, FICM rebuilt FoMoCo longblock under 7/200 warranty.
Last edited by RatherBNtheWoods : 04-02-2009 at 09:42 PM.
If you do want to clean it periodically, you can get the o-rings and the gasket at an International dealer a lot cheaper than at the FoMoCo dealer. Ford charged me around 30 bucks for the 2 ring 1 gasket kit. International charges a couple bucks for each.[/quote]
Int'l Part No.? My local Int'l dealer said he can't cross reference. If you don't know the part number, can you point me to where or who would have it?
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