Amen to fireshawn and dmags. I'm a newbie and changed the filters on my used 07 this wknd with no probs. With 7200 miles I was surprised to see how dirty the bottom filter was. I had a 1/4 tank of diesel when I did mine, but regardless, as dmags mentioned, the trick may be to drain the hfcm first to avoid the bath (I did notice some water and sediment). Paid $60.18 for my filters from my local dealer. Plan to find them cheaper elsewhere. Bottom filter is a PITA to remove.
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2007 F250 Lariat CC, 6.0 PSD, 4x4, FX4, Tow, Chrome, 20" wheels, Dark Stone, Reflex Spray On Bed Liner. 10200 miles and loving every minute and mile of it.
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16k now on the beast and I know that it is time for fuel filters(according to Ford they should be changed every 15k) Is this something that I can change? Where would I find the filters to purchase and how would I go about changing them. Thanks for all the help.
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from a previous post:
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What I do:
With the tank at 1/2 full or less, put rear tires on a 2x8, thus putting the frame in a slight nose down attitude. Take the upper filter off, & out.
Drain the HFCM, by removing the IH drain plug (you do have the IH brass plug, not the factory plug w/ the 6mm hex key, right? - If you don't go get it, its the best $16 you'll spend on the truck). If you reach over the top of the front drive shat, you'll not get more than a drop or two on your fingers. Make sure you catch the fuel for examination. You should get about a quart, if it keeps running, put the plug back in & drive till you get below a 1/2 tank.
Shove some paper towels between the frame rail and the HFCM cap. Using a 36mm socket & 1/2" drive ratchet, remove the cap. (Lots of short strokes, and quite stiff for the 1st half). Filter will be attached to the cap. Remove old filter. This is where you might get some diesel on your fingers, but if you're careful with the paper towels, you won't get any down your arm.
Replace HFCM filter with new filter from IH. Place filter into HFCM and rotate until key in filter engages. Replace old o-ring on cap, and lube new one with a bit of motor oil. Replace cap (lots of short strokes with ratchet). Make sure cap seats fully. No need to reef on the cap, same for the drain plug - the o-ring is the seal. Replace drain plug.
Install top filter. Turn on & wait for pump to stop running, then turn to crank. Should fire right up.
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You should have no trouble at all removing the drain plug even with the front shaft. When you've broken it loose with the 6mm hex wrench, reach over the top of the driveshaft & pull it out with your fingertips. After it drains, push the paper towels between the frame & the filter housing.
I can now do this change with no more than a few drops on my fingers.
And, I can't say it enough, that IH plug is worth all $16.
I agree on the I drain plug. Before I had it I hacksawed a little bit off of the short end of my 6 mm hex wrench and it fit fine between the drain plug and the front drive shaft.
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2005 F-350 Lariat, 6.0 PSD, Torqueshift auto trans, crew cab, SRW, short box, FX4, ESOF, limited slip dif., tow command, upfitter switches, 6 CD changer, Lariat Lux. package, camper package, engine block heater, adjustable pedals, reverse sensor, triple A-pillar gauge set (Autometer) with pyrometer, trans temp & voltmeter, MBRP 4" cat back exhaust w/5" dual wall chrome tip, dark shadow gray/ med. flint interior.
2008 Big Horn fifth wheel by Heartland RV model 3670RL. 38' long, 4 slides and all the goodies.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dmags</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A little thing I thought of today was when you install the bottom filter back on to the cap put the plastic bag the filter came in back over the filter while trying to position it prior to install this way if you rub drive shaft or anything you will not get shmeg on your new filter.</div></div>
Thanks, that tip about using the plastic bag worked great. Sure enough, I did get shmeng on the plastic bag as I maneuvered the fuel filter up past the front drive shaft, frame rail, and cross member.
And somewhere I came across this great PDF regarding fuel filter changes.
I think I read a post a while back that there is a wrench specifically designed for the frame rail filter removal from NAPA or ...?
Anyone know the part number?
It's supposed to make the remove and install process much easier.
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2006 F-250 XLT FX4 PSD 6.0, Born in Kentucky 10/05. 4X4 Crew, auto, 3.73, Tow Command, Dark Slate Gray, Oil Guard bypass filtration system and Cyclops no-Start.
*2012 BOSS 302, Blaze Yellow
*1993 F250 4X4, 5.6L farm truck
*2008 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO X2
Hey, I just wanted to second the frame fuel filter change. It was a pain and took me about one hour. I used a 1/2" racket with an 8" extension to the 36mm socket. That seemed to work better than using the racket and socket alone. There was only about 2-3 inches of movement for the racket when working on this. My truck has 27,500 miles and it was my first fuel filter change. The frame filter looked dingy to me, but the engine compartment filter didn't look that bad.
Last edited by parched_son; 01-23-2008 at 10:33 AM.
If finding a local dealer is a no go, Santex International will ship them if you call and order. The number is 888-898-0972. Last I heard they were $30.69 plus shipping. Part number is 1847170C93.
The cheapest place "online" that I have seen is $34.95 plus shipping.
I just had a International Harvester parts guy tell me that the part#18471-70C93 has been flagged as not for the Ford 6.0. He said that there system tells them to direct all Ford 6.0 owners to the Ford Dealership for fuel filters. I have ordered this part number and used it on my 2004 6.0 for at least the past couple of years...is this just Ford trying to make an extra buck or is there really a difference in the make-up of the filter?
Has anyone heard of this? Have you talked to a IH parts person lately?
I just had a International Harvester parts guy tell me that the part#18471-70C93 has been flagged as not for the Ford 6.0. He said that there system tells them to direct all Ford 6.0 owners to the Ford Dealership for fuel filters. I have ordered this part number and used it on my 2004 6.0 for at least the past couple of years...is this just Ford trying to make an extra buck or is there really a difference in the make-up of the filter?
Has anyone heard of this? Have you talked to a IH parts person lately?
You are not the first person that has had this issue. It just comes down to the fact that Ford does not want you paying 1/3 the price for the filters that they charge for them. So, per contractual agreement the International dealer is supposed to tell you that you need to buy your filters from Ford/Motorcraft.
__________________ '04 F-250 Harley-Davidson 6.0L CC SB
Not sure how much everyone's paying for their filters but I saw AutoZone mentioned here. Our local part stores sell them for almost $60. I found them for half online on C.G.Enterprises. For the price of one filter locally, you can get two filters from them. No shipping charge.
Has anybody ordered from that online store before? Any good/bad experience?
Lou
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1994.5 F350 5-sp 4WD CC LB 4.10, RanchHand bumpers, 35" BFG's;
VV 6.0L turbo, 3" DP, 4" exhaust, el. fuel system, open element intake, onboard air with 30" Grovers, el. fans, SD Intercooler ... (+ 20 other mods)
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'04 F-250 Harley-Davidson 6.0L CC SB 
So, per contractual agreement the International dealer is supposed to tell you that you need to buy your filters from Ford/Motorcraft.
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