Yeah, you guys are great help. I was able to change everthing and not get any fuel going down my arm, and this was my first time to do this (just got the truck) Also the oil filter wrench was a great idea. I used the 3 7/16"-3 3/4" filter wrench... Still not fun but sounds better than what I was reading from some of you.
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05 F-250 HD Edition
4" Exhaust
MORE TO COME (Oh Yeah)
The easiest way to change the HFCM filter with 4x4 is to use a long 18"-24" extension on a 1/2" ratchet; come at it from behind the xfer case crossmember. Only took me about 5 minutes to take it off and put it back on when I changed out 3 out of four filters a couple weeks ago.
I decided to not change out the aux fuel filter since it seemed to still be flowing well and it's not part of the truck fuel system. The fuel samples in the pic below are, from left to right: aux fuel filter, pre-pump fuel filter (first filter on left), and then the fuel drained from the HFCM. The fuel from the pre-pump and HFCM filters were so clean that I used them to pre-fill the pre-lump filter before re-installing the new filter. Both the aux fuel and pre-pump fuel filters have drains and it's easier and takes less time to drain them both than to drain the HFCM.
Ok guys... bear with me. I have new head gaskets and heads. I am ready to put together. BUT... what way does the gasket go? It looks like 4 sheets of metal riveted together. 1 solid sheet and if you flip it 3 smaller sheets? Please help!!
I just wanted to say how great this forum is. I couldn't believe what I was seeing as I watched the You tube video. The primary fuel filter I just removed from the HFCM on my '06 6.0 F250 was black on the lower half and clean on the upper - I knew this wasn't right but couldn't figure out why. I guess the filter I'm using can leave the housing half full of air which would explain what I'm seeing. Thanks Squiggy!
Also, heads up on online Motorcraft filter suppliers is a huge help. The prices are around 50% of what I'm paying....and to make it worse, I've apparently been buying inferior parts in good faith from what I thought was a reputable parts retailer.
AutoZone or similar. They now have air filters. They aren't the cheapest prices, but it's faster than ordering online and you save the shipping. So in the end it's not much of a difference.
Changing the frame fuel filter is a joke. I end up with my arm soaked in diesel up to the shoulder,
I purchased my Air filter at the local WalMart and it cost about $70.00 (canister type for the 6.0L) OEM.
Oh yes, And Ahhh...there is nothing like the smell of diesel in the morning, rolling down your arms.
Ok guys... bear with me. I have new head gaskets and heads. I am ready to put together. BUT... what way does the gasket go? It looks like 4 sheets of metal riveted together. 1 solid sheet and if you flip it 3 smaller sheets? Please help!!
The gaskets go because they deform under the stress of heat and pressure. Normally overheating occurs when one (or more) of the coolers clog up.
On my truck the oil cooler clogged up and then over heated the EGR cooler which increased the stress factor and overheated the block. Overheating the heads occurs in an uneven way and deforms the area of which the heads are seated that sometimes stretch the bolts holding the heads in, giving a different clearance on the gasket. This normally allows fluids (usually coolants) into the cylinders and produces 'white smoke'. It also gives you what is called hydro-lock because the fluids do not compress the same as the fuel/air mixture and bends the piston shafts (sometime to the point of damaging the engine block).
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06 F-250 6.0 PSD Harley Davidson
Linear Mode
