First step, after you determine that you need to replace this sensor and/or connector, is to remove the air filter, degas jug, FICM, and the rear stud on the intake manifold.
Use a long right angle pick to take loose the ICP sensor connector. Pull it up and out of the way. Use a long extension, a 1 1/16th crowfoot, and a swivel to get the sensor loose. You'll need some long, nimble fingers to fish the sensor out. This is where you are thanking me for telling you to remove the rear intake manifold stud.
Install your new ICP sensor, and splice in your new pigtail connector. Trim the wires to the same length - you don't want a lot of wire back there that can contact the exhaust!
Now go pull the roof off a few cold ones. You deserve it.
__________________
The vehicles:
2000 Pontiac Sunfire (absolutely no extras)
1997 Ford Explod ..err.. Explorer (without the Firestone Rollover option)
1965 Ford Mustang (daily commuter until original owner's death)
1998 Trek 4300 (with upgraded brakes and Manitou Black fork)
The man:
Certified Trans Daddy
Master Certified Diesel *****
What was the main reason for you replacing this ICP sensor?
Great write up with pictures, what an effort with the work and taking the time to post the info. Great job.
__________________ 2004 4x4 FX4 Lariat color White F250 6.0L crew cab with 6 in. lift, BF Goodrich A/T 315 x 70 x 17, 3.73 gears, 4 in. Magnaflow exhaust from turbo with 24 in. X 5 in. end tip, Fox Racing shocks, Donahoe Racing dual steering stabilizers, Firestone Air lift (air bags) in the rear, all to hual a 2006 28ft. Rampage 5th wheel toy hauler with loaded weight of 12,500 lbs. ebehrman@cox.net
Awesome write up...like someone said in another post, I do believe you're going for internet technician of the year. If i was a judge, you'd have my vote, but it may be slightly biased because unless your camera distorts the picture, you've got some big ole fingers and I don't wanna see what the rest of ya looks like!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What was the main reason for you replacing this ICP sensor?</div></div>
The owner was complaining of an oil leak. I also noticed that the CEL was illuminated, and there was a code P2285 in memory - But the owner didn't say anything about that.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">unless your camera distorts the picture, you've got some big ole fingers and I don't wanna see what the rest of ya looks like!</div></div>
Funny story about hand size. Yesterday I was taking the head bolts out of a 6.0L (see the serpentine belt thread) and I was using my "sho-nuff" impact gun. I'm holding the handle with my right hand, index finger along the body, middle finger on the trigger, and the other two on the handle. I'm stabilizing the gun with my left hand. There happened to be a little tear in my left glove that the exhaust from my impact gun was aimed at. I hit the trigger, and my left hand would inflate. Bolt comes out, off the trigger, and my hand deflates. Repeat 19 more times.
When I looked up, the service advisor was watching me with a bewildered look on his face....
__________________
The vehicles:
2000 Pontiac Sunfire (absolutely no extras)
1997 Ford Explod ..err.. Explorer (without the Firestone Rollover option)
1965 Ford Mustang (daily commuter until original owner's death)
1998 Trek 4300 (with upgraded brakes and Manitou Black fork)
The man:
Certified Trans Daddy
Master Certified Diesel *****
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ICP is in the valve cover </div></div> Right where it shuuda been from the beginning.JMO! Not to forget bunch other changes with later 04 VS job1 03. Anyhow, that's where mine is.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: FMTRVT</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How much time does that take Greg?
Or maybe I should ask Teamroper60 for the "I haven't done this a thousand times" estimate. </div></div>
Jack,
It took about 3 hours for the swap on mine. However if you have the proper tools already, the total time is really more like an hour or so....... Removing the parts Greg said to is fairly easy and takes about 20 minutes or so. Putting them back is the same.
The majority of the time we spent was fooling with the stupid crowsfoot... Trying to fish that thing on was impossible for us. So, we stopped, regrouped, and took an inch and a sixteenth deep well socket and cut it down to the length of the sensor. Once we did that, the actual sensor change took maybe a minute or two...
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03, (still running the original flash!), AIC, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, Edge Juice, Trans tuning by Innovative Diesel, AFE PG7, Amsoil oil & Diff fluid, Fumoto valve, B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges, Voyager brake controller, DIESELSITE Coolant filter, Timbrens, Rancho RSXs, Michelin XPS Traction's, a whole bunch of "bling", Connex 4300hp, JL Audio 275w amp w/ 12" sub, Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 360hp
Cool. So it sounds like deep socket, flex, and extension is needed. Did you use a 3/8 or 1/2"? Could you measure the total length of the socket after cut down?
The original socket was 3 and a quarter inches long (measured on the outside). The modified socket was cut down to 2 and seven-eighths (again, measured on the outside).
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03, (still running the original flash!), AIC, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, Edge Juice, Trans tuning by Innovative Diesel, AFE PG7, Amsoil oil & Diff fluid, Fumoto valve, B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges, Voyager brake controller, DIESELSITE Coolant filter, Timbrens, Rancho RSXs, Michelin XPS Traction's, a whole bunch of "bling", Connex 4300hp, JL Audio 275w amp w/ 12" sub, Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 360hp
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