How to replace early ICP - with pictures

[frobozz]

My very early 03 (produced 12/02) now has the dreaded code and symptoms for the ICP sensor. I got the recall updated sensor in the first couple of months of 03, but my recollection is that it was the -BA part and they quickly got up to -EA but never went back and RE-recalled the earlier recalls. So no big surprise it's now failing again. And obviously it didn't get the connector replacement at the time either.

Just to verify, the part I need is 3C3Z-9F838-EA...and the 4C3Z-9F838-A part that's for sale cheap everywhere is *not* going to work? Lucky me, I get the more expensive sensor in the place that's harder to reach! Should have waited until late 04 to buy a truck...

Duncan

[wingnut1961]

Originally Posted by frobozz

My very early 03 (produced 12/02) now has the dreaded code and symptoms for the ICP sensor. I got the recall updated sensor in the first couple of months of 03, but my recollection is that it was the -BA part and they quickly got up to -EA but never went back and RE-recalled the earlier recalls. So no big surprise it's now failing again. And obviously it didn't get the connector replacement at the time either.

Just to verify, the part I need is 3C3Z-9F838-EA...and the 4C3Z-9F838-A part that's for sale cheap everywhere is *not* going to work? Lucky me, I get the more expensive sensor in the place that's harder to reach! Should have waited until late 04 to buy a truck...

Duncan

3c3z-9f838-ea is the part I used on my '03. Paid $50 for it on Ebay, so it's not that bad if you can find one. I didn't replace my connector at the time (nor saw any need to) The heat shield was intact and it's been running great since the new sensor went in. I've even picked up some mpg...

[6POINTO]

Well, I bought the Snap On tool today to find that the sensor is too large for the Snap On tool. The sensor is part number 3c3z-9f838-ea. I hope the Snap on guy has a tool to fit it now

[wingnut1961]

Originally Posted by 6POINTO

Well, I bought the Snap On tool today to find that the sensor is too large for the Snap On tool. The sensor is part number 3c3z-9f838-ea. I hope the Snap on guy has a tool to fit it now

Don't need an expensive tool for this job...

Originally Posted by wingnut1961

The trick to getting it out from underneath is to use a 1-1/16" deep socket with about an inch cut off the end (socket is about $10 at sears). It fits right over the sensor and you can loosen and tighten it with a rachet. That was the easiest part of the whole job.

[6POINTO]

No worries! The Snap On guy gave me the wrong tool this morning because his computer was down.

[frobozz]

I just got the socket, but I don't have the sensor yet! I hope I got the right one (it sure looks like it). It's a 1-1/16" deep-but-not-very-deep-well socket with a spring clip near the opening, presumably to hold the sensor in place while you're working back in that blind cave at the end of an extension and u-joint drive! Part number is S6196KR, is that the one you've ended up with now?

Sensor and pigtail are on their way (cheap on ebay!), now if I could just order some warm weather...

Duncan

[frobozz]

OK, the warm weather finally arrived and I did the job. It did take every bit of the 3 hours that people talk about. What an incredible amount of work to replace one stupid sensor! I spent most of that 3 hours designing punishments for the engineers who allowed it to end up back there...

Here are some comments on what I found and did.

I got the Snap-On socket made for the task and so should you. Dead simple with that thing!

I flipped a coin and decided the "in from the top" method sounded simpler than the "up from the bottom" method. But you know what? I did both, and I am not sure how you avoid that. I went in from the top and that allowed me to pull up the wiring harness to work on it to splice in the new connector. I don't know how you could do that purely working from the bottom...unless you didn't replace it, but that seems unwise. Mine was completely oil-logged. But what I couldn't do from the top was get the socket on the ICP sensor! That stupid heat shield is in the way, the one you remove when going in from the bottom. I guess you could avoid that if you didn't use the socket, but that would be insane, in my opinion.

So I worked from the bottom to remove the heat shield, which allowed me to get the socket on the sensor... and hey, from down there you don't need any crazy u-joints or anything. Just slap a 3/8" drive ratchet handle on the socket and it comes right out. You can easily turn it by hand once you get it started. Threading in the new one is... "interesting" since you're kind of working blind, but it's doable.

I didn't drop the front drive shaft. Working around it was not really any big deal. Much bigger deals were: The sharp protrusion at the bottom left rear edge of the block; the auto trans dipstick tube; having to take out that (*&*&$^&&**(())_(_)(#!@ air filter when getting at stuff from the top.

Getting the heat shield back on was "fun" but doable. As long as you have skinny arms and can thread bolts into holes with one hand while not able to see what you're doing. Once you get it to stay in place with the first one in, it gets easier.

The from-the-top instructions mentioned removing a bolt on the back corner of the manifold. I was picturing an exhaust manifold bolt and my long nightmarish history with those snapping off on vehicles, etc. No, no, no, this is just a little stud that is there to bolt a ring terminal ground wire down to. Easy as can be to get out and put back and you *do* want to do that or else you will gouge the living crap out of your arm back there.

I managed to just unbolt the expansion tank and remove the little line that leads over to the passenger side, and just lay it over on its side while still all connected... this avoids the huge mes of draining it and removing it completely. You lose a few ounces of coolant, that's all. (OF COURSE make sure to relieve pressure before removing that little hose! Then put the cap back on tightly.)

Same deal with the FICM - I undid the 4 bolts holding it down (plus the bracket that covers two of its bolts and connects to the intake tube) and then just leaned it over to the left side of the compartment. I didn't hassle with removing all the connectors to it.

The air filter and upper intake tube were removed to make room for all those laying-over pieces, and for me to lay over the engine - I put a folder-over moving blanket across everything and just surfed back to where I needed to work.

Have a good bright small flashlight that you don't mind getting greasy. It helps a lot when trying to spot stuff back in the nether reaches (the ICP sensor, the bolts for the heat shield, etc.)

Cleared the code with a reader and it's been off ever since. Hasn't done one of its occasional surges either. By golly I think that's fixed!

Duncan

[debandjakes350crew]

teamroper60 you got it right, the frist time you change that @#@# sensor is a pain but the next time should be a breeze. total time for us was 5hrs we had to find someone to cut down the socket after deceiding that was the only solution. the next hangup was the heat shield and lining up the bolts thanks again to ford,be better if it was on studs and you could just remove nuts and slid on and off . if a next time we might try getting truck up in the air to make reaching ICP sensor easier.

[NMPOWER]

Greg THANK YOU!!!!

[prayingforluck]

Frobozz, Thanks for the write up, it came in handy for me. I ended up using a 3" long, 1/2" drive 1 1/16" socket with a breaker bar, and it worked for me, but what a pain in the ass! I don't care to EVER do that job again! I don't drink anymore but I damn well DO deserve a drink now...LOL. It got dark on me last night so I didn't finish it. The new sensor is installed, just need to install the new connector/pigtail and reassemble everything. I also bought my parts on Ebay...144.99 shipped.

[Dezrzr]

On the new wire harness the leads are the same color , Does it matter how the wires go together ? After I replaced the ICP sensor and harness I'm having a starting issue . I now have to wait approx. 10 seconds after the wait to start light goes out before the truck will start .


Thanks

[bruggeman]

Originally Posted by GregH

Thought you guys might like to see how to replace the early style ICP sensor. Seems to have been a hot topic here recently.

Parts required

First step, after you determine that you need to replace this sensor and/or connector, is to remove the air filter, degas jug, FICM, and the rear stud on the intake manifold.

You'll then see this - pretty much:

ICP sensor with interfering components removed
Zoomed in some

Use a long right angle pick to take loose the ICP sensor connector. Pull it up and out of the way. Use a long extension, a 1 1/16th crowfoot, and a swivel to get the sensor loose. You'll need some long, nimble fingers to fish the sensor out. This is where you are thanking me for telling you to remove the rear intake manifold stud.

Now take a look at what you got:

Oily ICP sensor
Makes for an oily harness

Install your new ICP sensor, and splice in your new pigtail connector. Trim the wires to the same length - you don't want a lot of wire back there that can contact the exhaust!

Trimming the wires

Put on what you took off, and you're done!

Now go pull the roof off a few cold ones. You deserve it.

On my passanger valve cover sticker my truck says 2003 (a325) direct injection turbo diesel engine. I would like to have better picture of the location of the wiring harness of the IPC and the IPC control sensor. I took my truck to the Ford dealer knowing it coded P2285, the dealer replaced IPC and harness. I cannot tell where they replaced the part. and i didn't get the old part back. There was no dirt or dust rubbed off the engine and no tool marks on the nuts or bolts. Is this possible to change the ICP unit and not see the area they worked in? I feel maybe they reprogramed the PCM (brain box). They charged me $422.01 and sent me out the door. I feel i may have been taken advantage of, how can go about checking to make sure they really did replace IPC and wiring harness.

FD 3c3z/ 9f838/ ea Sensor $150.00
FD 5c3z/ 12224/a Connector $ 73.47

Diagnosistic Test and R 53 M A $157.00

Do you know what the diagnosistic test really test for, just ICP or the whole truck?? Any information or better picture where my IPC is hiding?? thanks

[Chili Palmer]

The diagnostic test would technically be for the whole truck as I'm sure they'd use the OBD II port - which will give you codes for anything that's wrong (that has a code ).

As far as not seeing what's been replaced...I wouldn't doubt it. I haven't done mine yet but I've looked at a few pictures and stared at my truck for a while and I still can't see the sensor - of course it's bee dark outside when I was looking but the point is - that sensor is WAY in the back and is very hard to see...

[FMTRVT]

Originally Posted by bruggeman

.....Do you know what the diagnosistic test really test for, just ICP or the whole truck?? Any information or better picture where my IPC is hiding?? thanks

They have to plug in the scanner and pull all codes, and if it has not set a hard code, sample the sensor output under varying conditions. There is usually a set price at all dealerships for using this expensive equipment.

For an '03 like both of ours, the ICP sensor is located underneath the turbo at the back of the motor. I would suggest you put the truck on jackstands, sit up behind the motor on the drivers side and remove the heat shield. I'd wait until the motor is cooled down. Then with a mirror you can see if the sensor is new. BTW, not an uncommon problem on this motor.

The ICP sensor is the little silver hex thing in the middle of the picture.



The picture is from a IH show motor with no trans or cab behind it.

[Chili Palmer]

Finished mine up tonight, I can say I've had more fun working on a vehicle before!

Came in from the top.

Removed degas bottle - removed the one line going to the passenger side and tilted it up - didn't lose any fluid - I didn't even forget to release the pressure first!

Removed FICM - only unplugged the two furthest (of three) connections. This allowed me to move it to the drivers side far enough.

Removed the ground stud - this is where it got fun! When I tried to loosen the top nut to get the wire off the whole stud broke loose. I originally tried holding the bottom nut with a wrench but it wouldn't fit so I tried holding it with pliers and that didn't work either. Eventually I took a grinder to a 10mm wrench and made a skinny wrench that fit between the two nuts so I could get the top one off. I bet a small ignition wrench would work if you had one.

Unhooked the sensor that's on the same wire loom as the ICP sensor, the one with the metal clip - came off pretty easy. This is the one the red arrow in my pictures is pointing to!

Unhooked the ICP sensor wire. I didn't have a long pick but my clip was in a spot I could reach it with a long screwdriver...I didn't say it was fun or easy but I got it!

To remove the sensor I had bought a 1 1/16" deep socket from the parts store that I tried using without cutting it down...didn't work...I didn't think. I originally thought it was but then after trying to loosen the sensor by hand, and it wouldn't move, I figured it didn't work. After messing with the long socket for a while I decided to cut it and in the middle of that I realized I had a 1 1/16" short socket and I wasn't going to reuse the sensor so I just took a long screwdriver and popped off the plastic connector on the old sensor and used the short socket to remove it - worked like a charm! I just put a long pry bar against the plastic connector on the sensor and tapped the end of the bar, barely tapped it and it came off surprisingly easy. Once I put the short socket on I could turn it by hand - that's when I realized I loosened it earlier.

Then I cleaned everything up. I did not buy a harness and mine wasn't too bad but I did use some carb cleaner and took all the rubber parts of the connector and sprayed it out pretty good then hit with some air. After that I filled the connector up with dielectric grease (both the sensor and the harness) then put the rubber seals back on. With any luck the grease will help keep the oil out for a while. I did not put grease in the sensor yet, I didn't do that until it was installed.

From there I put everything back together. I used a 3/8" fuel hose and put it on the end of the sensor - it goes inside the connector - with that I used a piece of wire (an old antenna) to help support the sensor while I rotated the hose. I got it started this way then was able to barely get a finger on it to engage a couple of more threads. Then I put cut down deep socket on and tightened it up.

Reinstalled the stud, FICM and degas bottle. Cleaned up, cleared the check engine light and started her up - runs perfect with no more hunting/surging idle!

Here's a couple of pictures...I didn't take any pictures of removing the degas bottle or the FICM - that's easy enough. I wanted to make sure I got some clear pics of the sensor!


Picture 1 - The red arrow points to the silver covering. That silver cover is covering the wires that go to a DIFFERENT sensor but remember that location! Those wires are on the same harness as the ICP sensor.

Picture 2 - With everything removed we're getting a little closer - red arrow goes to the same place as last time - white arrow points to ICP connector - at this point the harness has been moved.

Picture 3 - A little better and closer shot of the ICP.

Picture 4 - One last picture just because I have it!