How to replace early ICP - with pictures

[kspencer76]

I just opened my account and am anable to post a new thread. Hopefully somebody will see this 'reply' and can help me out....
I have a 2007 4x4 6.0L Diesel w/ automatic transmission. I was recently on a trip when my problem started. I was towing a 12,000 # 5th wheel travel trailer to the Canadian border. I had driven approximately 1350 miles with the trailer in tow. I was getting approximately 11mpg. I was 40 miles from my destination and my fuel guage showed just under 1/4 tank. I stopped and filled up. I pulled out of the station and after traveling about 2 miles the truck started running 'different'. The rpm's got higher (because it was not shifting into a higher gear) and the engine became weaker and weaker very quickly until I was eventually stopped beside the road in the middle of an uphill stretch. After a couple minutes, the truck restarted after a minute of cranking. It was running VERY rough and with very LITTLE power. It took me about 2 1/2 hours to travel the last 40 miles of my trip - having to repeat this process several times and only able to achieve a top speed of approximately 30 MPH. I got a room and met with the buyers of the trailer the following morning. The truck started fairly quickly and seemed to be running WAY better. I got back on the road and after a couple miles of 70MPH driving, the symptoms returned. It took me about an hour to get back to the fuel station where I had filled up. Convinced that I had received 'bad fuel' - I felt compelled to stop in and ask if they had any similar complaints and also to ask if there was a repair shop nearby. There was an auto shop next door, but they "didn't work on diesels." They did, however, install both new fuel filters. No real change in the way the truck was running. I was 50 miles from the nearest Ford dealership and the tow bill was going to be $275.00. They weren't going to be able to look at it until Monday (today). I had a heavy-duty tow strap with me and a lot of time on my hands, so I decided to try to save the $275 and left for the dealership. The truck started running a little better at a time so that by the time I passed through the town where the dealership was, I decided to keep heading for home. The performance never got better, but it did quit stalling all the way out. I was able to reach speeds between 50 and 70 MPH on the 1350 mile trip home. On the highway, the truck is barely driveable. Off the ramps for fuel, it was a lot of praying each time. I limped it home and to the local dealership where it is now. They can't look at it for a week. I have a garage full of tools and wouldn't mind tackling this myself if it is something that I can fix. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks

[lightningfast2]

I can agree with several on this one thing. THIS IS ONE repair I dread doing again and SOO thank you guys for your insite in how to do this. I bought my 1 1/16 socket from Autozone and its 3" long so i left it alone. Came in from the top and took me ALOT longer than the 3 hours but I had to take my time and did a few oil clean up items also. Stinkin Ground wire on the Intake manifold stud was a major pain as it broke.

All together, SOO Glad this site is here and the guys that took the time to doc the steps. Have to say thank you to you all.

Scot

[fabsroman]

I cannot remember the last time I took a vehicle to a mechanic other than to have tires put on and/or a 4 wheel alignment done, but after reading this thread I am somewhat worried about doing this repair. Utterly amazing that with 15,000 miles on the truck I am getting the P2285 code. Anyway, I have the correct sensor and the pigtail if I need it for a 2003 6.0 diesel, and I already had a 12 point 1 1/16" socket that fits the sensor correctly. Now, instead of cutting the socket down, can I just drop some washers in it to decrease the depth and allow the threaded portion of the sensor to protrude enough that I can screw it in? Is there another reason for cutting 3/4" off of this socket other than the fact that the sensor will slide into the socket?

In lieu of using washers in the socket, what about just putting some 3/8" rubber hose in there to prevent the sensor from sliding too far in?

Will the socket be too long to maneuver it correctly if I do not cut it down?

I am hoping to get this done from the bottom in an hour or two, but who knows. Since I started working on my Mustang 21 years ago, my motto has been to take my initial time estimate, multiply it by 3, and then that is usually the correct one. So, I'm looking forward to 3 to 6 hours on the truck this weekend. Sounds like it is going to be a blast.

Thanks to everybody that posted info on this thread. Without this thread and another one I found on another site, I would have been completely screwed.

Edit to add:

I did the repair today and went in from the top. I'm a small guy and trying to reach up from the bottom without a lift while laying on a dolly was utterly tough. I spent all of 5 minutes deciding to tackle the job from the top. I spent 4 hours on the job never having done any work in my F350's motor before and it wasn't too terrible.

For those wondering like I did about cutting down that 1 1/16" socket, cut it down. If you don't cut it down you can hardly get it in there and then it is resting against a heat shield so it is impossible to get the swivel onto the socket. Best destruction of a good socket I have ever had, and definitely worth the cost of a new socket to replace it. The most frustrating part for me was trying to get the pigtail back on the ICP Sensor because the tab was 180 degrees from where it had been on the bad sensor and trying to line everything up and then push the plug in was very tough. Otherwise, a lot of time just spent moving parts out of the way to get to the ICP sensor.

After replacing it, the truck runs smoother and it has a ton more power. It pulls really well when accelerating now.

Again, thanks to everybody that posted to this thread. I was coming in and out of the house while doing the repair so I could read this thread and look at the pics.

[Ronster1]

Just to let everyone know THANK YOU. It took me about 5 hrs. but I broke the manifold stud and one stud for the FICM BUT still. I had to have my daughter come out and stick er hane in to start threading the sensor in AND ook up the new pigtail. My neighbor has a lathe so cuttting the socket was no biggy. I think the longest part of the job was actually finding the damn thing. Even with everything off it took 45 min to find it. But I am blind as it is. LOL But thanks to the info I got everything fixed and my truck is running normal again. I do have a question thoug. Is there any way to mount it in the valve cover like they do in the 04+? Also I was thinking of just putting an adapter with a tube that came up top to mount the sensor. Anyone thought of this? Could that cause problems?

Again THANK YOU !!!!

Ron

[FMTRVT]

Originally Posted by Ronster1

...... Also I was thinking of just putting an adapter with a tube that came up top to mount the sensor. Anyone thought of this? Could that cause problems?

Again THANK YOU !!!!

Ron

Working on it.

[HBO1]

I keep my cut-down socket on my workbench shelf as a reminder of this job from hell. Should it go again, the dealer will be doing it.

[fabsroman]

Originally Posted by HBO1

I keep my cut-down socket on my workbench shelf as a reminder of this job from hell. Should it go again, the dealer will be doing it.

No sooner do I write above that I cannot remember the last time I took a vehicle to the dealer for work, and I have to take my F350 to the dealer to get the HCFM fuel filter cap replaced. I was replacing the fuel filter for the first time on my truck and made the mistake of doing it before checking out this website. With diesel fuel leaking everywhere, I cross threaded the filter cap and could not get it back off. That cost $230 at the dealer.

I cannot imagine what they charge to change the ICP sensor. Anybody know what the dealer charges for this repair when it is not covered under warranty?

FYI - I'm cheap and it hurt to pay the $230 for the fuel filter cap replacement. Luckily, they were pretty nice about what they charged me because the intial estimate was $288.

[piken]

Just called dealer today before ordering the parts to it myself.

The quote was $495 P/L ..... I thinks I'll be ordering the parts.

[dustinvz1]

Thanks for the pic on how to replace ICP sensor. Awesome and what a great forum.

Here's a question. When I replaced my ICP sensor was I supposed to reset something? It doesn't seem to have helped my issue of surging and a rough cold start. Also, should I have replaced the connection?

I going to try replacing the connection today but I have noticed that there is a connection that is right beside the ICP connector. What is that? It has bare wires showing.

Any help is greatly appriciated.

[dustinvz1]

Crap. I have a 2004 Excursion. It is surging, idles rough and seems to be getting worse gas mileage. I just got done replacing the ICP sensor and the connector, put everything back together and now it will not start. When i started the project i unplugged the negative battery terminal. I'm just hoping that has somnething to do it not starting. Can anyone help?The truck turn over but will not starrt.

[dustinvz1]

I did hook up the battery, it turn over but won't start.

[dustinvz1]

Thread mode on! Quick question. CAn I getting my FICM programmed without it being in the truck? I called the dealer and they said I need to have it installed in order to program it but I can purchase one on line already programmed. I'm confused.

Here's teh full story:
I replaced the ICP sensor and the connection. Now truck will not start just turn over. I double checked the connection and the wires and they are correct so i am assuming that something is wrong with FICM. Any help or enlightenment is greatly appreciated.

[Paul H]

The only question I have here is, do you need to remove the heat shield off the back of the engine to get this done from the top?

I have the new IPC, the original was changed under warranty and so was the harness.
That was 100,000 miles ago I I am having issues now.

[cbsnowandyard]

I'm definitely no full time mechanic but by what everyone is finally telling me is that I need to replace the ICP sensor. Found this site and now I may actually have some clue as to what I'll be doing when I dive into it tomorrow. I've read a lot of different posts stating that some people found it easier to get it from underneth and some from above. Now I'm no small guy so what is going to be the easiest way to get to this on my 03 F350

Thanks for all the great info and pics which I'm sure will help...

[Paul H]

As an after thought, does the EBS use the same size thread and fitting as the IPC? Why couldn't someone use an AN to flare fitting and a length of steel tube to a flare and fitting and bracket like the EBS and move the little bugger to a locaton with the connector pointing forward just behind the FICM There is plenty of wire harness and no more fighting behind the turbo. Just a thought, and I will not even demand copy writes to it. The IPC only needs to read pressure and a short length of tube will not change responce time all that much.