Seprentine belt - but what about the fan clutch wires?! - Page 2 - Diesel Forum

frobozz · 10-01-2007, 10:27 PM

I saw the tab on the tensioner and figured that's where a lever would go against if there was one... but there just wasn't one. Lucky me! (My engine was built the first week of Dec 2002).

To AllOutFirefighter13: I ended up cutting the shroud top section off at the perforations made for that, which gave me the needed room to unclip the fan wire connector from the shroud, at which point I could loop the old belt past it and the new belt back again. Yes, all that work just to get the silly belt past a wire! But that is only needed for the second belt on a dual alt setup; the primary belt comes out without being trapped at all.

Duncan

GregH · 10-02-2007, 10:17 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">flimsy piece of metal that wouldn't hold anywhere near the force that tensioner is under....... </div></div>

Umm, yeah, that's the lever. The metal is stronger than it looks....

teamroper60 · 10-02-2007, 02:59 PM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GregH</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">flimsy piece of metal that wouldn't hold anywhere near the force that tensioner is under....... </div></div>

Umm, yeah, that's the lever. The metal is stronger than it looks....</div></div>

Guess it wasn't on mine.... I had to change my alternator about a year ago. Had a buddy pulling the belt out (like has been described here) while I crawled underneath to lock out the tensioner. I saw that piece of metal and tried to move it into postion to lock the tensioner. The minute my buddy eased his death grip on the belt, that "lever" broke off... Next time, I'll try the 8mm socket....

AllOutFirefighter13 · 10-02-2007, 06:26 PM

<span style="color: blue"> Duncan ,

I have to say that trying to get mine out with a tensioner that wouldn't budge was a pain in the rear. I had a friend helping me and we both decided that the easiest way to get the belt off was to unscrew one of the ilder pulleys and then we were able to get the belt off. At this point in time I was pretty frustrated and you could imagine my relief when I found out that the belt didn't have to go around the fan. I had thought about the dual alternator setup, but I'm kinda glad now that I didn't get it! Take care!

Later, </span>

OT · 10-02-2007, 06:54 PM

Tks. So you cut the shroud. Early 03 that was procedure per fmc, they even had splice kit listed. Then not long after, changed to what GregH. says. Curious...

TR60 & AOFF..did you also cut shroud or ? T I A

btw..I haven't done one, but realized sometime ago real PIA.

GregH · 10-02-2007, 08:21 PM

You're right - the original service procedure was to cut the fan shroud.

I cut one, on the first 6.0L I worked on.

I never cut one after that. I don't know why Ford thought we would need assistance getting the fan shroud out - they put it in that same hole during assembly....

teamroper60 · 10-02-2007, 08:50 PM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: OT</div><div class="ubbcode-body">TR60 & AOFF..did you also cut shroud or ? T I A</div></div>

OT,

I wasn't changing a belt I was just replacing an alternator, so no, I didn't cut the shroud. Thanks to GregH's instructions up above in this thread, when the time comes to replace my belt, I won't be either!! [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]

green_mule · 10-03-2007, 09:19 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: khitch710</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I had a Job 2 '04 built in Oct 2003...mine had the squeeks running and shutting the truck off...Ford came out with a bulletin for the belts...they now have updated belts that elimate the squeek at shut down....maybe if you are buying new belts from Ford they should be the updated belts....hope this helps...Kevin </div></div>

I had the squeak and a new belt installed at around 50K or 60K and the squeak went away. I've got 93K on the clock now and I also have the squeak when the engine is cold (had not run today) and outside temps are in the high 40's low 50's. The belt looks great, no cracks etc. Time to change it again??

AllOutFirefighter13 · 10-03-2007, 01:50 PM

<span style="color: blue"> OT ,

I did not have to cut the shroud to do this. I removed that "wing" and proceeded from there. I also removed the air filter and ducting to the turbo and I removed the rubber hose that goes from the degas bottle to the upper radiator end next to the upper radiator hose. I had planned on doing it like Greg described, but chose not to go that route b/c I didn't want to go through all the trouble (I don't do these everyday). With weirdly-routed arms, I was able to get the belt out, then the tensioner. Going back together was a little challenging, as my buddy and I found out that we had to route the belt through the tensioner and THEN bolt the tensioner to the block. After that, we routed the belt and saved putting it on the alternator pulley for last. I used an universal tensioner lever to rotate it, and we had to improvise and used a pry-bar with some rope to hold one portion of the lever while my buddy grabbed another bite, as there wasn't enough room to make a full swing with the tool. You may not need to remove the air filter and ducting, but I found that I could clearly see the routing of the belt to make sure it was installed correctly. I will say that I love working on things, but this is not a job I'd volunteer to do everyday.

Green_Mule ,

If I read the owner's manual correctly, it says the OEM serpentine belt is good to go for 150K miles. I don't know if there are any of us here that would trust it that long, but I would say that you don't need to replace it just yet. I would inspect it for cracks, tears, fraying, etc., and if that is not visible, just keep it on there. As I said earlier in my post, my tensioner has already gone bad, so you may need to keep any eye out for signs of it going bad. If it can't keep enough tension on the belt, it will slip, thus causing squeaks and/or chirpping sounds. See my previous post for what I was hearing when it was going bad. Good luck!

Later, </span>

GregH · 10-03-2007, 02:25 PM

Last picture set -

6.0L single alternator belt routing

6.0L tensioner in the locked (released) position

Black05 · 10-03-2007, 03:48 PM

GregH -- From all of us -- thanks for the photos. You must be running for the "Helpful forum tech of the quarter" award! All kidding aside, thanks for all your expertise you so generously share.

Texrob1 · 10-03-2007, 04:53 PM

Ill second that thanks Greg H.. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif[/img]

GregH · 10-03-2007, 04:56 PM

It's really nothing. I've been working two headgasket jobs this week - one single alternator and one dual.

Phone (with camera) is in my pocket, and the computer is 6 feet from the front of the truck...

Really, it's nothing. Even less than nothing. Negative thing. Squared. Plus two. fo nizzle.

AllOutFirefighter13 · 10-03-2007, 04:57 PM

<span style="color: blue"> Greg ,

Looking at the picture of the dual alternator setup, the "second" (lower) alternator looks to be different than the "primary" (top) alternator, as the difference in the cases just jump right out at me. Are they two different part numbers? Are they electrically the same? How hard would it be to convert from the single alternator to a dual alternator setup? I'd imagine it's not as easy as just bolting one up.

Thanks, </span>

Texrob1 · 10-03-2007, 04:57 PM

Well it may be nothing to you,but it sure helps.. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif[/img]